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Quick question on removing the sway bar end link on my 99 M3.
A couple DIY's mention using a thin wrench to hold a flat plate on the backside of the endlink that mounts to the strut. However the backside of mine is round so a wrench would not grip.
However on the other side it looks like I could insert a hex wrench to hold the stud and then use an open end wrench on the nut to undo it.
I haven't seen a DIY mention this yet though.
I feel like I'm missing something here. I guess I could use a vise grip on the backside but I don't want to tear the boot.
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Large Member
I would clean the threads up with a wire brush then spray some PB Blaster on them first. You can try to use an Allen wrench and wrench on the nut side, but just on the back side of the bracket where the small end of the boot starts, should be 2 flat places for a thin wrench. Pull the boot back a couple mms and you should see it.
Member
Those look like non OE end links, probably no flat.
As mentioned wire brush then douse and soak with PB Blaster or Kroil.
Use hex key stubby and open end wrench.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 09-16-2017 at 03:24 PM.
Member
Youre replacing them, what does it matter if you tear the boot? There is definitely a flat spot to put a wrench, otherwise the balljoint just spins when you turn the nut.
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And that hex bit will almost surely strip out if you try to hold it there.
Member
Use needle nose vice grips on the endlink side. They're toast and you'll need to replace regardless. That should hold the stud steady while you back out the nut with a wrench.
Last edited by Twistytee; 09-17-2017 at 11:58 AM.
Member
Hack saw back side. Cut it off and replace with new
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()(
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No point assuming that, every no OE set I have had (a lot) have had flats.Originally Posted by bluptgm3
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
The hex key did in fact start to round the inside, but the vise grips did the trick.
I wasn't intending on replacing the endlinks, but it looks like I will be now. The boot looks OK but I don't want to risk it.
I was only undoing the endlinks so I could pull the strut assembly to install new pillowball bearings and to sandwich the spring in thrust bearings. So in the end I was able to accomplish that, but I'll save the rest for a separate thread.
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air gun.
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Wont work. Gotta hold the back side or it just spins the ball joint.
Member
I'd think you could sheer it off with a gun. But I definitely would have put an angle grinder to it at this point. No reason not to.
Member
Sawzall on back side with metal blade. Quick!
Dont even mess around with a wrench
Member
There's a handy allen head socket in the end of the screw. Use an allen wrench to hold it still, and a box-end wrench to turn the bolt. I'm missing why this is so difficult that you have to ask...
Member
I guess if you read the thread you wouldn't have missed it.
I did exactly that and the inside rounded.
And the question was raised in the first place since my end links don't have the flat surfaces that they're supposed to have.
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Member
Generally, the 'flats' are narrow. Only my 16mm (?) bicycle wheel axle cone wrench fits.
IF flats exist, there isn't enough space for a conventional open-end wrench.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 09-30-2017 at 07:48 AM.
My Drip Loops Are Better
See previous post...
Member
Put a jack under it. Bam you're done
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