Member
I've read through every thread I can find on this issue and there are alot of them, but still have not resovled my issue. My specific question is whether or not the key transponder chip can prevent the car from cranking after the EWS has been bypassed.
I had a no start no-crank issue 3 months ago, but it was the EWS. So I bought a DME online with the EWS disabled, and then did the EWS splice on the module behind the glovebox and it fired up. All was fine up until 2 weeks ago when the no start issue began. Since then it starts sometimes, but not others. Rocking it back and forth in gear does not help it start and when it starts, the starter sounds and feels strong so I don't think it's the starter. This is why I have this question.
Thank you
Member
Anyone?
Member
I don't think it has anything to do with your EWS delete or transponder chip. Common problems are starter, can sensor and fuel pump.
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Member
It's not the fuel pump since it's not even cranking. It could be the starter, but there were no usual signs. I havent looked into can sensor, but I will now. Thank you
Member
You meant cam sensor rather than can I assume. I do not believe it's a cam sensor issue as it runs great once it starts. Also, rocking it back and forth in gear does not help it start, so I don't think its a bad spot on the starter. Any other suggestions will be appreciated.
Member
I'd really like to get some advice on how to test the starter without removing the intake manifold or going from underneath. I know on OBDI there is a way of getting the starter to crank using the 20-pin port. If someone could please tell me how to do this with a '97 328i, I would appreciate it very much. You can send me a PM also.
Thank you
Member
Please?
trust the rust
If you want to remove the intake (it doesn't really take that long), you could test the starter signal wire with a multimeter to see if it's getting a signal when the key is turned. Does your car have the starter safety switch on the clutch?Originally Posted by AlpinweissE36
Member
If it only occasionally cranks, then it's either the starter or the ignition switch.
Starter "sounding" strong doesn't mean anything. You can give the starter a few wacks with a piece of wood and a hammer, if it starts more consistently then the starter needs replacing. Also rocking the car back and forth does nothing, where did you get that from?
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Actually if the car is a 5spd then you can try push starting the car, if it starts no problem then the starter needs to be replaced.
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trust the rust
Push starting my '95 M3 with EWS1 worked and it turned out to be my EWS giving me no-start issues. If the solenoid is stuck and needs to be freed, you can usually hear the gear spinning. I've also had random no-start issues from just a bad engine ground and starter power connection on my '79 323i which sat for a couple decades.
Member
I appreciate the replies.
As far as the clutch safety switch, this car is an automatic, so it doesn't have a clutch.
I only have one key, the original, and I feel like this has something to do with the locking/unlocking of the car, or perhaps the RFID in the key, but neither of you seem to feel like it has anything to do with that. The car seems to have had keyless entry installed. There is a keyless entry box connected to a module behind the glovebox, but I don't have the key fob for it. I have to lock/unlock the car manually with the one key I have. The passenger side and trunk usually unlock when I do this, but sometimes they don't.
My next move will be troubleshooting the ignition switch to try and identify if it's the culprit before pulling my intake off. Any advise with this will be appreciated.
Thank you!
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The EWS has been bypassed. I bought a DME with the EWSII deleted and then did the necessary wiring behind the glovebox to bypass it.
shade tree mechanic
Moderator
I would also check the fusible link. I know from E31, E34, E32 that a lot of people have this problem that the engine sometimes starts and sometimes not, and in many cases it is a fusible link with haircracks.
On the before mentioned cars there are even 2 fusible links, for example on my E32 there is fusible link which is inline close to the battery and in the cable which feeds the e-box with power. The other fusible link is located behind the battery and feeds all relays and fuses under driver seat like GM,RM etc.
Pic from E32 and E34 fusible links http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/377728/
and here a cracked one http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/377948
here we discussed about the location of the E36 fusible links https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...328is-No-Start
On E32 and E34 we can check fusible link which goes to the e-box, Motronic etc by testing in the 20-pin round diagnosis port.
You can conveniently check this at your D100 Diagnostic Connector, pin 14. The voltage should be 12V at all times. If it is low when cranking, then Fusible A is your problem.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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