E61 Rear Wiper and Microswitch Conversion

[Aubergine]

I saw a picture today of an E39 touring with the E61 rear wiper arm and microswitch for the window but the poster provided no other information. Has anyone explored this? The microswitch is the same on the E46 touring, E91, and E61.

[Frankie]

Why would you want to do this?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Whut’s the micro switch do? And yeah, WHY???

[Aubergine]

All fair questions! The microswitch is the button/handle combo used to open the rear window.

The gains in function are the same as stock however the microswitch is smaller and the wiper has a full cover. I've attached a photo I found in the FB BMW Touring group.

I have all the parts for both setups on order after trying to resolve a very stuck rear wiper pivot only to find the wiper pivot and microswitch on my touring have rust welded themselves together.

[Sabreslight]

Oh this should be interesting, I just finished rebuilding my entire rear wiper lol.i had to hammer the unholy hell to get the old on out without shattering the glass. Definitely following.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Everyone always hammers them out. Pain in the butt, plus the anxiety of wasting the glass. The last time I had to do that, some years ago, I drilled it out, then reamed the rest till it all came off nice and clean. No need for all the anxiety!

[Aubergine]

Oh this should be interesting, I just finished rebuilding my entire rear wiper lol.i had to hammer the unholy hell to get the old on out without shattering the glass. Definitely following.

Yes, I started down this road and could not bring myself to do that. Since the microswitch was stuck in the sandwich (even after removing the nut that holds it) I used the Dremel tool chip away al the microswitch and then the offending washer that was rusted in place. It was far gentler on the window and frame than hammering. It took a while but I was able to get everything apart. Of course the wiper pivot is that as a victim of this process.

Everyone always hammers them out. Pain in the butt, plus the anxiety of wasting the glass. The last time I had to do that, some years ago, I drilled it out, then reamed the rest till it all came off nice and clean. No need for all the anxiety!

Having recently seen someone on FB who shattered their rear glass, I did not want to follow down that path.

I have the new wiper pivot and E61 parts so I will give an update after I still them (soon, hopefully).

[Sabreslight]

Yea I saw that shattered glass post as well lol. When i got that old parts out i anti seized the top nut and washer and greased to pivot shaft so hopefully it wont happen again.

[Aubergine]

Yea I saw that shattered glass post as well lol. When i got that old parts out i anti seized the top nut and washer and greased to pivot shaft so hopefully it wont happen again.

I will be doing the same on mine.

In regard to the E61 microswitch, after much test fitting and Dremel work it was a no-go. I can only imagine that photo was doctored. There hole for the wiper pivot has to be wider (easily done and then it slid over) but the E61 version is so thick against the glass that in order to get it to work you have to thin the back out so much it doesn't seem stable.

I will be moving forward with the original version microswitch and wiper. Worth a shot though!

[Sabreslight]

I will be doing the same on mine.

In regard to the E61 microswitch, after much test fitting and Dremel work it was a no-go. I can only imagine that photo was doctored. There hole for the wiper pivot has to be wider (easily done and then it slid over) but the E61 version is so thick against the glass that in order to get it to work you have to thin the back out so much it doesn't seem stable.

I will be moving forward with the original version microswitch and wiper. Worth a shot though!

it's always good to try. shame it didn't work out.

[pyite69]

I had to do this recently to have the auto glass place re-glue the rear glass onto the frame. One of the 4 corners wasn't attached and leaked, probably since new. The amp connector and pins on the amp were rusted together as well, presumably after 20 years of leaking here.

The hammer blows were getting scary, so I ended up drilling out the post and replacing with a nice new one. There was no chance of it coming off any other way. I replaced the cover piece as well which was dirt cheap.

I posted the 3 part numbers I replaced on a thread here somewhere if you need. It was like $120 for all 3.

[Sabreslight]

I had to do this recently to have the auto glass place re-glue the rear glass onto the frame. One of the 4 corners wasn't attached and leaked, probably since new. The amp connector and pins on the amp were rusted together as well, presumably after 20 years of leaking here.

The hammer blows were getting scary, so I ended up drilling out the post and replacing with a nice new one. There was no chance of it coming off any other way. I replaced the cover piece as well which was dirt cheap.

I posted the 3 part numbers I replaced on a thread here somewhere if you need. It was like $120 for all 3.

Damn, I had the switch and cover ordered from Latvia since everywhere else was 140 for the switch itself. Also it was back ordered at the time. i also greased the shaft so it shouldn't rust up again. might just be an annual thing to pull it apart and reapply and inspect it.

[Aubergine]

I had to do this recently to have the auto glass place re-glue the rear glass onto the frame. One of the 4 corners wasn't attached and leaked, probably since new. The amp connector and pins on the amp were rusted together as well, presumably after 20 years of leaking here.

The hammer blows were getting scary, so I ended up drilling out the post and replacing with a nice new one. There was no chance of it coming off any other way. I replaced the cover piece as well which was dirt cheap.

I posted the 3 part numbers I replaced on a thread here somewhere if you need. It was like $120 for all 3.

My glass is ungluing from the frame at the bottom center. I will keep an eye on it but I think the glue cannot withstand the elements and vibration after 20 years of use. I used a dremel so I know your pain. It is a scary job but it can be done.

Damn, I had the switch and cover ordered from Latvia since everywhere else was 140 for the switch itself. Also it was back ordered at the time. i also greased the shaft so it shouldn't rust up again. might just be an annual thing to pull it apart and reapply and inspect it.

I am thinking the same thing. It is worth it for peace of mind.

[KeysCoupe]

On a couple wagons in the U-pull yards, the rear liftgate glass coming loose is from rust getting under the black mastic used to bond the glass to the frame. The first place I see the separation starting is along the bottom edge.
-Donny