Have you replaced Your Condenser/Auxilary fan with a Spal fan yet?

[jeffcfp1]

One of the issues I discovered after redoing my A/C system was that my pusher fan wasn't coming on. A lot has been written about aged motors causing huge current draw and it melting the fuse panel. Well, Lo and behold it happened to me as well. I used a 16" Spal "Pusher" fan, it doesn't have a big draw upon startup and has a sealed motor. All plastic housing and blades so weighs much less. Mounted it using the existing three mounts on the factory condenser (I haven't gone to a PF condenser as trying to keep setup as original as possible). Used two Spal SPU-IX-30130011 black powder coated brackets on the two lower mounts, didn't need a bracket for the top mount (use the existing bolts that mount the old fan). Used all the existing wiring, replaced the resistor with a new one. All accessed from underneath vehicle and by removing grilles (and kidneys). Pleased to report the install was flawless, rattle free, fan sounds like an A/C fan on any newer model car.

[Bert Poliakoff]

Jeff, which Spal did you use as there are a few 16" pushers shown for them.

[jeffcfp1]

Hi Bert. Here is link.
http://www.spalautomotive.com/eng/pr...A18-AP10_C-41S

Purchased mine from CATuned as they indicated on website they have installed on many 80's era Bimmers. At the time, I had no idea how I was going to fasten and subsequently purchased a boat load of Spal fastners from Summit, which I'll be returning today. The install really c<script id="gpt-impl-0.33876043065532013" src="https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/gpt/pubads_impl_147.js"></script>ouldn't be easier (once grilles and lower covering, i.e. plastic access plate between lower valance and radiator talking not more than 30 minutes.

To make the swap, all that is are three nylon lined lock nuts (sorry don't have size handy nut they are fine thread) and a couple terminal connectors (pictured), wire cutters, electrical tape and/or liquid electrical sealer and I recall a 5/16" or slightly larger drill bit to enlarge the plastic elongated bolt housing on the fan assembly to accommodate the factory bolts that have a widened shaft to fit in the rubber bushing. As pics show, I mounted the new resister using the screw on inside of left headlamp housing as this is mounted on the original fan housing. Trim the shield covering on the archaic fan motor back about two inches to grab enough of the existing ground wire, which is part of the three terminal connector off the fan.

Only difficult part of this job is getting the nut on the top mount, this is doable by lowering the condenser a bit, particularly on the drivers side - 10 mm lower condenser mounts should first be loosened as well as top mounts which are just in front of radiator. FWIW to all, I believe the draw on this fan is only 15 amps, reflected in its wiring appearing to be 14 gauge versus existing fan wiring being more like 12. This appears to be a complete win win, easy as pie and only about $100 all in. As they say here in northern 6 country, you'd have to be an idiot if you didn't do this simple upgrade and save your fuse box, while keeping your sixer really cool!