1995 525i replaced starter, now car won't crank...

[cohny]

About 3 months ago the car would not start. It was turning over but it couldn't quite get started. I tried whacking the starter and the condition improved but the car still wouldn't start. The E34 is only my winter transportation so the car sat for a few months while I tended to the E39 and E36 all summer. So, given the symptoms, I had some time to start thinking about the car and I replaced the starter. While I was removing the old started two of the leads to the starter connected for a second and sparked. I thought I had disconnected the battery but I hadn't. It pains me to admit that I exposed myself to great danger like a fool but obviously it could be contributing to my problem.

I charged the battery up and turned the key but the car won't start. All of the interior functions are fine but the starter will not engage. I checked the connections at the starter and everything looks fine. I tried swapping the battery for the one in my M3 with no improvement. I did notice an odd behavior where the hazard lights come on when I connect the battery. I hit the button twice and it goes off. Other than that everything seems normal. I checked all of the fuses and none of them are out either. Does any of this sound familiar? I tried searching and got so many different answers I didn't know what to make of it. EWS came up a few times but all of the fuses under the rear seat are fine.

Is there something I can jump to start narrowing it down? What could I have fried when the two leads to the starter contacted for a second?

[locknload]

Hazard light activation is a normal event whenever the battery is re-connected. You might try "rocking" the crank to make sure the starter pinion isn't jammed in the flywheel. Beyond that, save jumping the solenoid in situ, consider pulling the starter and testing it out of the car before reinstalling. Not sure if an incorrect starter will mount, but might be worth confirming that your replacement exactly matches the one removed.

A few other ideas: Transmission in P or N? Pretty sure you have EWS, could be that. Try a search for "starter relay" in this forum and see if that pops anything for you.

[cohny]

I read that you can jump pins 1 and 3 on the EWS module connector to bypass EWS's starter relay function. I removed the lower panel on the driver's side and I cannot find the module. Where is the EWS connection?

[christensen]

Don't play around with the EWS..... what wire have you shorted? more than sure you damage the relay/wiring if you connected to the ground. To start you need to have some condition of EWS, Transmission.

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Check the voltage (ground with the frame) than the thick wire from battery. (no fuse).

If everything is fine disconnect the starter coil wire (50, 2.5mm black/yellow) and connect a wire to this terminal (50) and battery positive. (Note: make sure that the transmission is in neutral).
Check if the coil engage the starter or not, or even have continuity(check the ground and terminal 50 of the starter for continuity).

ps. Have you checked F17(7.5A) and F20(15A)?

[ross1]

I read that you can jump pins 1 and 3 on the EWS module connector to bypass EWS's starter relay function. I removed the lower panel on the driver's side and I cannot find the module. Where is the EWS connection?

The relay is integral with EWS module which lives in a hard to access spot above and to the left of the steering column. A big yellow connector as I recall. You'll see two larger gauge black/yellow wires, jumping them defeats the relay.
I don't think this will be your issue but rather a blown fuse link or something simple from the incorrect connection you made.