Awesome with m60b44 builds, as I'm long term planning that for my e34. Photo bucket really broke the internet, so much info and pics on these builds are gone forever. :/
Also, does s65 headers work on our engines/chassis? I'm pretty sure the original headers will be a bottle neck on a, what, 350bhp m60 but I'm also pretty sure the performance headers for the m62 won't fit.
I tried to fit those S65 manifolds on my M60B40 before and couldn't get it to fit in the car. This time I'll be a bit more diligent. A few of the head side flanes need to get reclocked in order to bolt down on the M60 heads
Differences in M62 & M60 head gaskets. Not much. The biggest difference being the timing cover sealing & Bore size. Some minor differences in coolant passages but nothing that's going to present a problem. Both of the gaskets that came off the engines are Goetze brand. I think I'm still going to run the Victor MLS gaskets, with copper coat spray.
M62 gasket on top of the M60 gasket
Last edited by Mykk; 10-09-2017 at 09:18 AM.
Have You opened volley pan and made modification for bank 2 ?
If You open volley pan and watch, bank 1 have bigger waterflow. Bank 2 need to do same size.
M60 and M62 both need that modification if You want some reliable power.
Last edited by 516SC; 10-11-2017 at 07:43 PM.
I'll check it out, Thank you
S65 exhaust manifolds.
Is this exhaust headers compatible with e34 & e39? Or need some work?
e39 540i 6speed Supercharged,
E36 v8 m62 with m60 headers, Turbp HX-40 0.6-0.5bar or 9psi, custom exhaust & Turbo manifold, injectors 440cc, ECU Invent EMS-2, Mishimoto Intercooler and oilcooler, etc…
Where is TOOLMAN and his adapter price for m62b44 adapter for eaton m112 SC?
e39 540i 6speed Supercharged,
E36 v8 m62 with m60 headers, Turbp HX-40 0.6-0.5bar or 9psi, custom exhaust & Turbo manifold, injectors 440cc, ECU Invent EMS-2, Mishimoto Intercooler and oilcooler, etc…
We've been in contact, I've put in my down payment for him to get started making a set for my build
e39 540i 6speed Supercharged,
E36 v8 m62 with m60 headers, Turbp HX-40 0.6-0.5bar or 9psi, custom exhaust & Turbo manifold, injectors 440cc, ECU Invent EMS-2, Mishimoto Intercooler and oilcooler, etc…
Tough to say: I've got 1.3hrs in stripping the heads & parts off the M60B40.
Clean, paint, measure piston height & head CC's, bolt heads & timing components on M62 shortblock. set up cam timing. Assuming 4ish hours there.
Tear down supercharger, weld silencer ports closed. Cleanup, paint, reassemble & install on engine. 3ish hours.
Remove drivetrain from car, 3-4 hours.
Transfer over accessories, transfer over flywheel, bolt trans on, reinstall drivetrain in car. 4-5hours.
Make and a adapt new exhaust collectors over to existing exhaust system, 1-2hours.
Modify engine wiring harness, 30-45mins
Computer tuning: Months.
Don't forget the mandatory piston ring regap, and while the block is stripped, having the deck and heads resurfaced for a MLS finish.
Plus new rod bolts. And rod bearings if bad.
Hardly mandatory. I ran stock ring gaps on my turbo M20 up to 21 psi. No issue there, and turbos run the pistons a little hotter than supercharged setups.
I'm of the opinion that the best basis for any M60/M62 build is a factory block left strictly alone. If the bores are good the block is good. If the bores are tore up the block is scrap. My block came with some visible damage, mostly in the drivers side bank rearmost cylinder, but it runs great and uses no oil. Nikasil is more resistant to dirt and debris than these Alusil blocks but the Alusil can withstand what looks like a lot of damage before the cylinder wall will actually begin to fail.
I also had no issues slapping MLS gaskets in without any machining. The block and heads were simply cleaned by hand and degreased. The block had 130k miles and the heads were over 200k. They came off of a perfectly good running engine and there was no reason to assume they were not serviceable as is. I have seen guys get the block and heads cut and then they end up having head gasket problems. I skip that step and have good results.
The less you screw with the better.
I was thinking along the lines of nonturbodan, the way this engine will be running will be as if it were N/A at sealevel.
If this were a serious horsepower contender seeing big boost, big cylinder pressures and extreme piston temperature that could butt up piston rings and lift ring lands absolutely machine work and ring gap is a must.
As far as machining deck and head, I'll know more after some time spent with a straight edge and feeler gauges.
A few thousandths warpage is prefectly acceptable. The pics earlier in the thread showed composite gaskets, which I assume are what you'll be using? These are even more tolerant of a little irregularity than MLS gaskets.
If the stuff all came from a running engine it is almost certainly serviceable as is.
I have been considering MLS, copper coat and studs
Another goodie arrived; The head studs for the M60/M62.
After crunching the numbers for compression ratio with the info I have, I've decided to run the 2.07mm thick head gasket.
By my calculation: 92mm bore x 82.7mm stroke with 143mm rods, +.84mm piston deck height. 50cc combustion chamber. 93mm x 2.07mm head gaskets yield a 10.41:1 static compression with a 1.23mm (.048") Piston to head/Quench/Squish distance.
With camshaft timing at 120°ICL/115°LSA gives a 63° ABDC intake valve closing angle (14° valve overlap). The intake ICL and 5,358' elevation of the town I live in bumps down the compression to a 7.32:1 effective/dynamic compression without boost.
By keeping the 3" jaguar pulley on the supercharger I could manage the full S/C output of around 8psi (at my altitude), bumping the effective compression up to 11.3:1
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