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Thread: Budget build M60B44, my first S/C build

  1. #1
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    Budget build M60B44, my first S/C build

    Hello all. I just recently picked up a clean M62 4.4L Alusil Non-vanos short block. I will next be grabbing an M60B40 take out and transferring the heads, cams and the double roller timing chain set up over to the M62.



    I also dream of (and will likely be ordering this weekend) the Jag Eaton M112 with intercoolers.

    The short block was $250. I am seeing take out M60B40's around $500. And superchargers around $550-$650 with intercoolers.

    I figure with all of the nickel and dime stuff, heat exchanger, aux elec pump, intake adapter & idler, gaskets, head bolts and fasteners, belt.... I'm aiming for the $2k mark and will order things paycheck to paycheck. It's gonna be a slow build.

    Where I live, at 6Kft elevation, we get some "Not project car friendly" winters, hail, snow, 18*f days. These down couple of months is when I plan to have all of the parts awaiting and then begin assembly.

    I have already converted my EFI over to control and manage boost by way of a piggyback ECU called the MAFT-Pro. I just have it running a naturally aspirated speed density tuning right now. But by design it utilizes a 3bar map sensor. I am not equating the cost of this system into my engine build budget. I also run the 404 DME with an Ostrich 2.0 and have full control over the fueling and ignition timing. Which I assume will be as low as 8*-10* advance in boost.

    I am fully aware that the M60 heads on the B44 will result in a 10.94:1 static compression. ( I will measure piston depth, headgasket thickness and cylinder head CC's to verify) I'm not expecting to run much boost. 3-5psi. I am seeing the S/C as an elevation compensation. I am also planning on running my current 24lb injectors.

    I understand the power formula is higher boost & lower compression. But I'm also building my driver and want some low end grunt, also by underdriving the S/C I can theoretically keep things cooler and happier for longer.

    Stay tuned for pics of things as they come in and stay tuned for assembly.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mykk View Post
    I understand the power formula is higher boost & lower compression. But I'm also building my driver and want some low end grunt, also by underdriving the S/C I can theoretically keep things cooler and happier for longer.

    .
    Cylinder pressure is what it's all about, I don't think the engine cares how it is accomplished.
    Sounds like an interesting build, I like the supercharger idea and am curious about the intake.
    Would be really great if you can this all done for $2k too.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  3. #3
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    Sounds like a nice build. The comp will be ok if u manage the heat with a functioning intercooler.
    The 24lb/hr injectors may be a little skinny and u may be close to maxing out the maf. I was even maxing out the 806 3.5" maf at 4800rpm with direct voltage from the maf to the ecu and at around 6000rpm with a 0.8v offset so I have a Porsche 803 maf going in to hopefully give me maf range.
    BMW’s
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  4. #4
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    I hear you on the MAF. When I was experimenting with a 90mm throttlebody and 4" intake pipe & maf housing on the naturally aspirated M60B40 I was logging MAF voltage upwards of 4.89v at 7krpm around 85kpa map. I can see how one would run out of MAF while boosted

    Right now I'm running Mafless, so really my limitations are injector size. I can tell you that when I went from 19lb to 24lb injectors I had to take alot of a fuel out of the tune. Which is encouraging to add that fuel back in for extra airflow. If I get any inclinations I'm running out of injector, it's an easy and inexpensive fix.
    Last edited by Mykk; 09-08-2017 at 10:49 PM.

  5. #5
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    Just purchased:

    1995 740i M60B40 engine assembly. $463.25 shipped.

    98-03 Jaguar XJR / XKR Eaton M112 supercharger (I can't verify if it's version IV or V until it arrives), with throttlebody to blower adapter/elbow and left & right intercoolers. (missing blower hat to connect S/C to intercoolers) $315.68 shipped.

    Total spent thus far: $1,028.93

    With $970 left in my given budget I'll need to be careful. Still need to source blower hat, lower intake manifolds with injector provisions and jag fuel rail. Also waiting to hear back about adapter and idler kit....and thats not even into the nickel and dime things that kill a project
    Last edited by Mykk; 09-09-2017 at 11:05 AM.

  6. #6
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    As far as boost vs static compression goes, it's all about correct a/f, proper atomization and ignition timing. Making the timing too retarded will definitely increase your EGT, it's a balancing act.
    The turbulent airflow created by forced induction means a better flame front and burn speed during ignition, but the denser charge will slow the flame front propagation.

  7. #7
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    Also worth noting In regards to injector size selection is thermal efficiency, or how much of your inputes energy becomes usable mechanical. Forced induction will generally increase thermal efficiency but the mechanical drag created by a supercharger will probably offset that to some degree (vs a turbine driven compressor).
    Also forced induction will probably raise your BSFC or lbs per hour (fuel flow) per horsepower (torque*distance/time)

  8. #8
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    I think all I can do is just keep my eyes glued to the wideband once it's running and make sure I don't go lean under boost.

  9. #9
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    Blower hat / outlet duct ordered: + $81.01. Total thus far = $1,109.94. $890.06 until budget limit.

  10. #10
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    Other parts already acquired or currently in use that will be helpful in the swap:

    (parts cost not accounted for in budget)

    Bavarian Autosport ignition coils. E46 M3 3.62:1 210mm LSD ring, pinion & carrier.



    S65 exhaust manifolds.



    Vacuum/Boost reference adjustable fuel pressure regulator. 3Bar MAP.



    MAFT-Pro speed density conversion that sends a simulated 0V-5V MAF signal to the DME, tunable with the 3 bar MAP.



    Boost & wideband gauges (oil pressure gauge not hooked up yet):


  11. #11
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    A quick google search of the casting number doesn't reveal much. The few sights that come up are for remanufactured engine suppliers.



    Since I'm the kind of guy that needs to know the details. I started by putting a dial indicator on a piston at TDC and found that it sits .033" (.84mm) above deck height.



    While searching the victor reinz gasket catalog I see that it's possible to order 3 different M62 head gaskets in different thickness. 1.65mm, 1.74mm and 2.07mm.



    The traditional engine builder in me wants to order the 1.74mm gasket for a perfect .035" (.89mm) Quench/Squish height. However, considering I'm planning on using a supercharger it would be safer to open up that quench height to .048" (1.22mm) by using the 2.07mm thick gasket. The difference in head gasket thickness equals .5 of a full compression number change. I need to make a decision if it would be better to run higher static compression & tighter quench for knock deter or lower compression with more quench height. Right now I'm leaning towards lower static CR & more quench distance to allow some more piston/head/valve clearance. Some builders believe quench isn't as crucial on a boosted engine seeing as how the airflow entering the engine is highly turbulent and promotes a homogeneous air & fuel mixture in the chamber without being dependent on N/A cylinder swirl.

    Speaking of valves, I think I've landed on my desired cam timings to run the supercharger. O.E. is 109 ICL/108LSA. I think I'll run a 120 ICL / 113 LSA for an 18 degree overlap (OE is 28 degrees) and a IVC of 63 degrees ABDC (OE is 52 ABDC). Lowering the engines N/A dynamic compression by .7 of a full compression number.


    I won't know the exact compression numbers until I can CC the M60 cylinder head.

  12. #12
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    Well if you want to talk about the engine build in you, the right way to correct static compression is to get new Pistons or to mill and and heat/cold treat or surface hardening after machining. Head gasket is not the 'right' way. Definitely proven to be effective

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mykk View Post
    A quick google search of the casting number doesn't reveal much. The few sights that come up are for remanufactured engine suppliers.
    You know that's not the casting number in that picture, right? Cast # is raised on the block side near starter
    My understanding of quench is that once at .050 or so you really don't have any.
    Last edited by ross1; 09-11-2017 at 09:11 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    You know that's not the casting number in that picture, right? Cast # is raised on the block side near starter
    My understanding of quench is that once at .050 or so you really don't have any.


    A search using the etched "Part number" was yielding more results. But either way it's all verifying that it is indeed a 4.4L.

    If I do decide on the .048" quench it'll be the largest gap engine I've put together.

    This has been a good read:

    http://ezinearticles.com/?Supercharg...ing&id=2473412

    My example would be put into the "exception to the rule" category, where one would want to bleed off a bit of boost through overlap. I'm also aware that I'll be using a less efficient means of boost (roots style blower). It'll be a learning experience for sure.
    Last edited by Mykk; 09-12-2017 at 10:03 AM.

  15. #15
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    I'm so very thankful other enthusiasts have taken the time to share their knowledge and research on any given subject.

    Using this info: http://planetsoarer.com/boost/boost.htm I was able to decide to start off my build using a 4" S/C pulley.

    According to calcs ; My M60 crank pulley measured close to 5.5". With a 4" S/C pulley, at 6500 Engine RPM the S/C will be spinning 8,937rpm (well under the S/C redline of 14,000rpm) and producing roughly 3.5psi of boost.

    I have been debating if I even want to run a boost bypass and actuator. Keep the airflow through the S/C at all times, idle, cruise, tip-in...etc. Even at much slower S/C rpm I fear the repercussions of the IAT's by not running a bypass. Really, I'll likely install the bypass and then experiment with it's opening rates (or not open rates) to dial things in.

  16. #16
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    On my bypass (bov) with the centrifugal setup I'm toying with the idea of a pressure switch activated solenoid valve to hold a little bit of boost in the engine at part throttle. The ess kit I had didn't run a bov up to 5 psi. Now with more boost I wanted to run a bov to look after the blower on gear changes and sudden declaration especially once the boost pressure is increased.

    It it seems a lot of work for 3.5 psi but I guess u can keep the comp high and not have to deal with the intake air heat. I'd probably thin about running 5psi or so. As u know when it ruining sweet u WILL be upping the boost so u may as well up it from the start.
    BMW’s
    90 E34 M5
    84 E24 M635csi standalone ecu with coil on plug
    94 E34 540i/6 SC 5-17psi Flex fuel/standalone ecu
    97 Z3 2.8
    97 E36 M3 euro SC still u/c


    OTHERS
    11 Audi S5 APR stg2
    19 Volkswagen Amarok V6


  17. #17
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    Purchased: Jaguar lower intake manifolds with injectors, fuel rails and harnesses. $154.79. ...Budget remaining: $735.27

  18. #18
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    Nice build, did I miss what its going into?
    Slowly climbing the ladder. But never reach the top.
    Click Car 4 Build!
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by darknezz7 View Post
    Nice build, did I miss what its going into?
    My E34 540i/6


  20. #20
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    The S/C arrived. It's in very poor condition and not usable. The rotors bind and have nicks on the rotor tips, plus dented and galled aluminum on the outside of the housing and snout. The entire assembly also smells like it's been drug through acres of manure.... The seller was very understanding and has agreed to issuing a full reimbursement. This is the risk I take by going budget and thankfully I'm in no rush.



    +$315.68 back in the budget.

    Another search online and I've found a complete (and much much cleaner) 2007 Jaguar XK Eaton M112, intercoolers, inlet and outlet ducts with it's bypass valve for $410 shipped.

    Which means I do not need to use the separately purchased outlet duct found for $83.94.


    New build tally:
    M62 short block - $250 local pickup
    M60 complete engine assembly - $463.25 shipped
    Complete S/C assembly - $410.00 shipped
    Lower intake manifolds with injectors & fuel rails - $156.20 shipped
    4" 8 rib S/C pulley - $80 shipped

    Total for parts going to be used on this build thus far: $1,349.45, leaving $640.55 remaining in budget.

    Other anticipated expenses: Jag S/C to BMW V8 adapter plates/kit. Head Gaskets, S/C gaskets, and other assembly gaskets. Engine clean up and re-paint items.
    Last edited by Mykk; 09-17-2017 at 04:23 PM.

  21. #21
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    Awesome! Thanks for pioneering the way!

    Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrkanda View Post
    Awesome! Thanks for pioneering the way!

    Sent from my Z956 using Tapatalk
    I wish I could run with that title, but several others have already mounted and run the jag SC on the M60 V8. I however might be the only one trying to tame the boost levels and effective compression on an otherwise perfectly fine naturally aspirated engine combo

  23. #23
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  24. #24
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    E32 M60B40 to rob the heads, cams & timing chain set up.


  25. #25
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    Nikasil. Crazy how many of these are still on the road....well, not this one.


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