Pixel Repair

[ryunk]

I just completed the e39 Radio MID pixel repair. I ordered both LCDs from akspeedo.com, instrument cluster repair is next.

First time, lesson learned, my first attempt was not perfect, roughly 20% pixels did not work.

Although I spent a good amount of time cleaning the contacts, the contacts still needed more cleaning. Credit card was worthless so I ended up "gently" sanding the contacts with emery cloth that plumbers use to clean the copper pipe ends prior to solder. I "GENTLY" removed all of the buildup until a shiny copper finish across all the contacts, careful, you don't want to sand the contacts more than is required and don't allow the grit to touch other parts of the circuit board.

All pixels work on radio MID now. :-)

Now for the instrument cluster.......

[auaq]

Contact Blackknight530i or find on Facebook. It's called Fixels.

[Qsilver7]

No before/during/after pictures? You've been around since "07...you know the noobs /snowflakes need images...heck...even McDonalds puts images on the cash registers for them so they'll know how to ring you up correctly.




...I'm just messin' with ya....good luck with the cluster.

[ryunk]

ok i'll post some pics of the cluster fix

[ryunk]

The Instrument Cluster is now done but not perfect. A block of pixels are blank in the message but it will do for now. I attached a pic of the cause of the pixels going dead. Where I have not cleaned the leads yet, there is a buildup of corrosion on the copper contacts that cause a separation of the electrical circuit between the ribbon and the circuit board.
BMW 540i Cluster image 1 rot.jpg

The instructions said to drill four holes to get access to the screws holding the LCD to the circuit board - however there was another option:
Instead of drilling, I decided to pull the gauge needles off after watching many youtube videos on the subject. To remove the needles, the shaft must be secured or you will ruin the whole motor mechanism. The needles must be installed carefully and closely match the position on the shaft prior to removal.

Once re-assembled: Initially the needles did not work correctly, some did not move smoothly as before and did not have the full range of motion - OhSh*t. I took the cluster back out twice and tweaked the needles until they were working properly.

If I do this again, I may drill the holes instead. It is very easy to degrade the operation of the gauge needles if you remove them.
Video of cluster test coming if I am able to upload it???

[ryunk]

I added a couple pics of the Cluster Test. Note the missing block of pixels in the message area. Not sure what the root cause is but I can live with it, for now.

[Franktea]

Is there any way to fix radio pixels without a kit? Cleaning / correcting connections?
Thanks

[ryunk]

Is there any way to fix radio pixels without a kit? Cleaning / correcting connections?
Thanks

Not in my opinion. I think it would be almost impossible to remove, clean and reinstall the original ribbon that fixes all of the pixels. I have not tried it but I did not see that as a viable option. I would be surprised if somebody has done that.

[djb2]

The silver ink on the ribbon degrades and cracks. This happens first at the point that the flexible circuit ribbon curves away from the circuit board, so sometimes slightly adjusting it will temporarily reestablish contact, but it will quickly fail again. The only fix is a new flexible circuit ribbon.

You can get replacements printed with either carbon ink or silver. Both work fine. Carbon ink is now the preferred material for production, with silver ink now a specialty product only used where higher conductivity is needed. Much more important for our purposes is the precision of the printing and the die cut, but that's harder to evaluate from a picture on eBay.

Once you screw up a gauge motor, it will never be the same. The problem is that the shaft pulls out of the internal rotor, and can't be inserted back to the correct depth. That results in the rotor rubbing against the plastic frame, instead of just the tip of the shaft acting as a point bearing.

I've experimented with fixing the motors. Removing the metal can and drilling a hole in the plastic frame to space the rotor away while reinserting the shaft works best, but the results have been inconsistent. Any burr or plastic shaving leaves the motor worse off. Removing the copper wire and rewinding is an exercise in futility.

BTW, every place that sells "new" gauge motors has pictures of junkyard pulls. Check the date codes. You'll probably get ones with a little rust, and they certainly won't be matched to your cluster's calibration.

[Franktea]

Do you feel if you cleaned the original parts, that maybe it would have worked? Just asking as mine on the radio are in bad shape.

Thanks,
Frank

[ryunk]

Do you feel if you cleaned the original parts, that maybe it would have worked? Just asking as mine on the radio are in bad shape.

Not a chance. You definitely need a new ribbon to make the repair right.

[djb2]

The silver ink on the ribbon cracks, and sometimes even flakes off. Cleaning won't help.

[Franktea]

What kit did you buy? i need to fix mine thanks!

[djb2]

I bought a set of regular carbon ink ribbons, plus a heating tool.

The heating tool is a cheap soldering iron with a brass 'T' holder and a silicone insert. The vendor shipped a Japanese market soldering iron, which has a U.S.-looking plug but runs on 220V instead 120V. I have to use it with a 220V inverter if I want it to get hot.

You should buy at least two ribbons -- disassembling isn't something you want to do a second time if you mess up the first ribbon.
I bought a set of 10 each (radio and cluster) because they were much cheaper in bulk, and I knew I would be helping friends.

[Kirk Anderson]

I just completed the e39 Radio MID pixel repair. I ordered both LCDs from akspeedo.com, instrument cluster repair is next.

First time, lesson learned, my first attempt was not perfect, roughly 20% pixels did not work.

Although I spent a good amount of time cleaning the contacts, the contacts still needed more cleaning. Credit card was worthless so I ended up "gently" sanding the contacts with emery cloth that plumbers use to clean the copper pipe ends prior to solder. I "GENTLY" removed all of the buildup until a shiny copper finish across all the contacts, careful, you don't want to sand the contacts more than is required and don't allow the grit to touch other parts of the circuit board.

All pixels work on radio MID now. :-)

Now for the instrument cluster.......

Your story begins just like mine. Pixels. New LCD & ribbon. akspeedo.com.
First try, slow and careful, picky, painful at times, brake cleaner and Q-tips, crappy result.
Do over, REAL picky like brain surgery. Delicate treatment with fine sandpaper, like you. Crappy result.
So disappointed. Probably going to message mister Fixels.

[Kirk Anderson]

Update. Third time = the charm. All aglow. It took a patient 60 minutes with some 1000 grit sandpaper and a bit of brake cleaner to get the contacts truly shiny. If they don't shine, the pixels won't light.