Engine Failsafe Program

[Njcrackbaby]

A few wks ago I began getting an engine failsafe message on the dash, which whenever it shows up, results in reduced throttle response that seems to react very slowly to movement of the pedal. At first the message would show up once every few days, but it began happening more often until it was practically every time I started the car. At bimmerfest east (right after the first Engine Failsafe Prog incident occurred) I was told by a guy Chris (supposedly well known on these forums), to change out the throttle body. Anyways, like a dumbass I took my Indy shops advice and left it to them to fix what they suspected was the accelerator pedal causing the problem. $497 later, the night After I picked it up, the problem persisted (along with the mechanic leaving me with a droopy headliner it didn't have before, but that's a whole nother story).

I'm supposed to bring the car back Wednesday. So today I finally replaced the throttle body with an OEM used throttle body I bought off eBay (the inside looked very clean and it's from a reputable seller w/ warranty). This was my first significant repair I've attempted on any car of my own. Upon test driving the car I didn't get any Engine Failsafe notice, so after about a 10 min drive around town I brought it home. But I had to move the car a few mins later, and of course the notice showed up on the dash again.

Also, when moving the intake pipe out of the way I snapped this little hose by accident, what is its purpose? Did I F up big time? IMG_5798.jpgIMG_5799.jpg

Really stumped right now guys, what's my next move?

[psjr]

The next steps, in order, are:
Fix that tube - maybe you can join it with some vacuum hose to prevent having to source a new one.
Check battery voltage - that is often a cause of Engine Failsafe.
Disconnect the battery for 15+ minutes - probably won't help but easy to try.
Let the new throttle calibrate (the procedure might be something like leave the ignition in the on position for 2 minutes, or idling, or something like that).
If no success so far, look into things with INPA or DIS. Since Engine Failsafe is due to electronic systems, a computer will definitely be able to tell you what it thinks it's wrong. Since you already replaced the two major components of the electronic throttle, all that is left hardware failure-wise is wiring or the DME.

[Njcrackbaby]

Thank u. About to try these before work today. Any one have the specific calibration procedure for the throttle? Would this be the same as resetting engine adaptations?

**i don't have INPA or any other diagnostic equipment

[Frankie]

Stop wasting your time! Take your car to a (better) indy mechanic or dealer for complete diagnostics. This fault is electronic, and there's no way to resolve it unless you know its source. Without diagnostic specifics, you're resigned to throwing darts at a board.

[Njcrackbaby]

After disconnecting the battery for a few hours and fixing that hose with some heat shrinking tubing, the ENGINE FAILSAFE PROG hasn't come back, which is a great improvement from before, as it was popping up immediately after starting the car prior to this. Fingers crossed that it's fixed.

ill have mechanic scan codes (and reset throttle adaptations?) when I bring it back on Wednesday

[740iSport303]

Probably no reason to reset adaptations. Just reset DME to the new throttle body. Turn the key to position 2 (just before start) for 30 - 60 seconds, turn the key off then start. That resets the throttle position sensor to the computer and the accelerator pedal.

[Njcrackbaby]

Just followed those steps.. no notice on the dash is supposed show up or any beeping right? Because nothing happened and I couldn't notice any difference

[740iSport303]

You shouldn't see anything actually occur. This process just re-aligns the throttle position sensor to the DME which is required if you replace the throttle body. Failure to do this step can cause the engine failsafe issue you experienced. Had it happen to me in the past and this is what fixed it and never have received the error again.

[Njcrackbaby]

Yeah. Just went on an errand and engine failsafe came up again immieditely after I started the car. Back in the car now and it didn't pop up yet. Bringing to mechanic tomorrow, hopefully they can figure this out for free since the repair they did really didn't fix anything

**when driving, engine failsafe has mostly popping up during turns. Not sure if that tells you anything

[Njcrackbaby]

It seems I've made this issue considerably worse by resetting the DME. It was working fine before ��

[Timm]

Check this:

http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/BMW_M62...e_Problems.htm

[Njcrackbaby]

Just ran it for codes with a generic obd2 reader yesterday and nothing showed up as my mechanic cleared them for me a couple days ago.. but the failsafe is still there. Plz help

[Timm]

If the above is OK, the next thing on my list would be to replace the battery - a tired battery with a high ESR will cause the same problems....

[Njcrackbaby]

All the plugs on the DME are clean as a whistle. Engine failsafe went away for a while, just recently has been coming back again. I have no other signs of a failing battery. I also ordered a K DCAN cable with BMW software from eBay. Every time I reset the adaptations it seems to make the problem come up more frequently ��

[srq]

Did you check battery voltage as suggested. Need to check voltage while car is running. You can display voltage in the dash or buy a cheap cigarette lighter volt meter.

When I had the same problem, it turned out to be a bad alternator.

[cooose]

Same here...I just threw in a new alternator today. Run test 9 on the cluster and check your voltage. Tim has the play by play alternator change manual on his site which is superb.

[Njcrackbaby]

Checked voltage. It's at 11.7. 11.6 when running, does this mean I just need a new battery? Or it's the alternator?

[pumpedTSI]

Should be reading 13.6-14 while running and lights off......charge the battery and recheck....if it stays the same probably alternator.....dash lights dimming up/down at night while revving motor?

[Njcrackbaby]

Dash lights aren't dimming up and down ^^. Charged battery at autozone and it's the same voltage as before.

today I just tried to clear adaptations/codes again, then I turned the car on again and now it's idiling EXTREMELY rough at around 1000 rpm. And Service Engine light comes on. Pretty freaked out as this is my DD. Any ideas on what to do?

[clarkitect]

Did you fix that broken vacuum hose? Read any error codes?

[Njcrackbaby]

Yup I fixed it with some heat shrink tubing as suggested. I cleared codes after resetting adaptations, none coming up any more. There were 3 codes all something relating to the "Pedal" in German. I guess I shouldn't have deleted them

[Ruskii]

Charged battery at autozone and it's the same voltage as before.

Check the alternator voltage output. As mentioned previously, your running voltage should ideally be a range between 13 and 14 volts. If you are only getting 11.7, that's too low and could cause a bunch of electrical issues since the components are not getting enough juice.

[dannyzabolotny]

It shouldn't be anywhere near 11V while the car is running... should be in the 13V range at the lowest. Sounds like you might have a bad alternator. Go to an Autozone, they usually have a tool that can check your battery's health as well as your alternator output.

The alternator causing the failsafe makes sense, because your car isn't getting enough electricity to run all of the systems properly. On the M62tu the alternator is water-cooled and costs about $300 for a rebuilt Bosch unit. You have to pull off the belts and drain the coolant to replace the alternator.

[Njcrackbaby]

Saga continues.

A friend and I replaced the alternator with a Remanufactured by Bosch unit from rockauto. Engine failsafe is still going on, and The acceleration is even dying more often than ever now. Also, after putting the belt back on after replacing the alternator the belts are extremely squeeky, when I'm pretty certain It's in the correct tension. Also getting "check coolant level" even though the stick in the reservoir tank is popping up when checking it. Possible I put in too much coolant? No overheating or anything really.

So thus far I've replaced:
throttle body (2 different replacements)
accelerator pedal
alternator twice (first replacement I bought was bad)

My local Indy doesn't know the issue either. Codes still come up for the pedal, part is under warranty for replacement from them since they're the ones who did it, but they claim the pedal isn't the issue. I've brought the car back to them and they checked out the wiring for the accelerator pedal and they claim it's fine.

havent tried deleting codes or resetting adaptations since the last throttle body and alternator change. Will try again today although I seriously doubt it will do anything

im in easily over $1000 and countless hours trying to solve this issue, which has been happening over 6 months. I am extremely desperate

- - - Updated - - -

Also replaced battery.

And my power steering is leaking. Not sure if that could be related to this issue

[Timm]

Is the battery voltage (while running) now up to 13.0V - 14.5V?