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Thread: Preferred Method of Refinishing Intake Manifold and Valve Covers

  1. #1
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    Preferred Method of Refinishing Intake Manifold and Valve Covers

    I spent most of today searching and reading threads on some of the things I want to do before I even start car that has been sitting a few years. Previous owner did have problems with the car dropping one bank of cyl after running several miles. I plan to drain, clean, replace pumps, and feed lines on fuel tank.

    Then I want to pull intake manifold to clean and seal rubber gaskets, change out pvc lines, seals, and gaskets. I may have a local speed shop clean and rebuild injectors if its more economical than buying new ones.

    I am also planning to remove valve covers so I can soak top end with oil before I turn over the engine. And, I will remove, clean, and loctite the banjo bolts to avoid any problems down the road. I have new plugs and wires on order also.

    But, what I am trying to decide is how I want to refinish the manifolds and valve covers. I had used a local speed shop in years past to coat valve cover, sidedraft manifold, and oil pan on my old 5 series. The finish was suppose to be for heat dissipation and I think it was some type of PTFE because it sure felt slick even though it had a light wrinkle-type finish. The finish held up extremely well for many years before it started showing some wear.

    I have thought about powder coat also, but I am wondering if anyone has tried using the ceramic finishes that are popular with gun owners, like, Cerakote? Its a very thin two-part finish that is oven-baked. Some of their finishes are for heat dissipation.

    I have a 50lb bucket of glass beads that will probably last me a life-time so I can blast the parts to prep them for whatever finish I decide to use. Maybe a high-heat clear coat would work. I have paint equipment so I could also spray a two-part urethane finish that would hold up pretty well.

    Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. I did notice today some of the great finishing work that TxGR8White and jeffbebe have completed on their cars!

    Thanks,
    JP

  2. #2
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    Valve covers are pressed steel and can be simply painted. They don't have the bubbling issues of the M62 covers. I used black high temp paint from Harbor Freight.

    Intake manifolds are often coated in Cosmolene (brownish color) which you can remove with paint stripper. I masked off part of the main runner and painted with same black and then sanded over the BMW logo and strips. The rest of the manifold is not painted and looks great.

    You should replace all of the fuel hoses (there are several). Buy a couple meters of it and cut to lengths needed.

    11_27_15b.JPG
    Last edited by BMSman; 09-04-2017 at 01:40 PM.

  3. #3
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    [QUOTE=BMSman;29819164]Valve covers are pressed steel and can be simply painted. They don't have the bubbling issues of the M62 covers. I used black high temp paint from Harbor Freight.

    Intake manifolds are often coated in Cosmolene (brownish color) which you can remove with paint stripper. I masked off part of the main runner and painted with same black and then sanded over the BMW logo and strips. The rest of the manifold is not painted and looks great.

    Thanks for the info. And your engine looks great! Did you bead blast the manifolds or just clean them because the finish looks very uniform? Are you having any trouble keeping manifolds from staining? I dont have my car at the house yet and so I havent started working on it. But, I didnt realize the valve covers are steel. So those will be easy to refinish.

    I want to prep the engine before I even turn it over by removing the valve covers and plugs and soaking top end and cylinders with fresh oil. I have ordered parts to change out fuel system components on engine and at the tank. I also ordered pvc lines, fittings, and some electrical components.

    I am still searching for info on the 'valley pan' and want needs to be done to it if I am going to have intake and covers off.

  4. #4
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    If your valley pan (which is actually just a cover) is not leaking, leave it alone. Almost everyone I have ever seen, will break a stud or two (or three...).
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    If your valley pan (which is actually just a cover) is not leaking, leave it alone. Almost everyone I have ever seen, will break a stud or two (or three...).
    2nd that^. I broke one on the last engine I worked on and Ive broken 2 on the one I'm into now with one bolt left to go (refuses to let go). Crud packs so tight around these bolts that even after they break you'll have a hell of a time getting the cover to break loose.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDP530 View Post

    Thanks for the info. And your engine looks great! Did you bead blast the manifolds or just clean them because the finish looks very uniform? Are you having any trouble keeping manifolds from staining?
    I just cleaned with engine cleaner, paint stripper and garden hose. They still look the same, perhaps a little duller.
    My car sat for several years before I purchased it. You can see everything I've done here http://km5tz.com/BMW%20850i.htm

  7. #7
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    Powder coated both the intakes and the valve covers a few years back and they have held up quite well. The valve covers finish is a satin chrome coating. Think this will really minimize the rust issues in the future for these stamped steel covers.
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    After reading several threads on the valley pan I decided to try and put it off because of the difficulty with removing small bolts. Engine was not leaking when it was parked, but I did order the gasket and seals if needed.

    I will check out your thread, BMSman, thanks!

    M6csi, your engine finish looks great! I can paint with urethane and get a good finish but I will put out a couple of calls locally for quotes on powerdercoating.

    BTW, I sent Steven with BMWCCA membership a photo of mailing label on an old Roundel mag so he can set up membership renewal for me. I would like to join the E31 chapter. Steven already sent back logon and password for renewal!

    A local shop just quoted me $90 for both valve covers, but I will take manifold by to show him to get an accurate quote.
    Last edited by JDP530; 09-05-2017 at 05:31 PM. Reason: add

  9. #9
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    Many threads about the dangers of bead blasting. Here is one for example: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=bead+blasting

    I had my intake manifold along with some other items blasted using walnut shells.
    1994 850CSi, 2007 M5, 1990 VW Westy Syncro, 2010 e61 Touring Manual

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Major Cheese View Post
    Many threads about the dangers of bead blasting. Here is one for example: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=bead+blasting

    I had my intake manifold along with some other items blasted using walnut shells.
    Yeah, I saw the problems with bead blasting mentioned in a thread I read over the weekend. I will check with powdercoat shop and see if they can use walnut shell or I will do it myself.

  11. #11
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    Looks fantastic! I really need to stop reading threads or my to do list will never end! HA
    Quote Originally Posted by M6csi View Post
    Powder coated both the intakes and the valve covers a few years back and they have held up quite well. The valve covers finish is a satin chrome coating. Think this will really minimize the rust issues in the future for these stamped steel covers.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMSman View Post
    I just cleaned with engine cleaner, paint stripper and garden hose. They still look the same, perhaps a little duller.
    My car sat for several years before I purchased it. You can see everything I've done here http://km5tz.com/BMW%20850i.htm
    You sure have done some excellent work on your car!

  13. #13
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    Do you remove the stud sleeves in valve covers before refinishing? Didn't look like they could be removed easily. Thanks,

    IMG_20171023_130629912_HDR.jpg

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    No. Leave in place.

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    When I did my first set of intakes, I glass bead blasted them and subsequently extrude honed them. They were then degrease, cleaned ultrasonically and rinsed really well. The aluminum really sparkled. I have also used AlumiBrite aluminum cleaner (used on aircraft) that worked very well. I have also painted the intakes with Ceramic engine paint, and have also had a set powder coated. In the end it really is up to you what results you are looking for.
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  16. #16
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    I just painted mine with high-heat paint. Twisted the studs after painting so they could still turn (a pencil does the trick). They look pretty good (and you really don't see much of the valve cover when everything is together). Thought about powder coating, but since there really isn't much to see, figured I'd go the cheap way (about $15 in paint and primer). But did spend an hour or so with a dremel and wire brush cleaning the manifolds. They came out pretty good, but can still use a bit more work.
    My Cars - 1991 BMW 850i - mine for fun, 1993 Saab 900c - mine for fun, 2008 Lexus is250 - my daily driver, 2003 Dodge Durango - my wife's, 1994 Acura Legend - gave it to kid

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the info! Soaking the manifolds and valve covers now to remove some of the crud. Heads and valve train look very clean and cam wear is minimal.

    IMG_20171023_130641262_HDR.jpg

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDP530 View Post
    Thanks for the info! Soaking the manifolds and valve covers now to remove some of the crud. Heads and valve train look very clean and cam wear is minimal.

    IMG_20171023_130641262_HDR.jpg
    While you are there, set the timing for the cams - easy to do at this point.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    While you are there, set the timing for the cams - easy to do at this point.
    Steffen, can you point me to a DIY on the cam timing. I did a quick search of forums but haven't seen any instructions. Thanks,

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    If I had to redo mine again, I would chemically strip them and have them clear anodized.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDP530 View Post
    Steffen, can you point me to a DIY on the cam timing. I did a quick search of forums but haven't seen any instructions. Thanks,
    PM me your email address and I'll send you some instructions.
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