Oh yeah I know I will, in my last car (turbo with small bumper grill for airflow)
I went from a shittynono to a koyo. I had oem elect fans and custom ducting and my car never overheated even on 110* days at the tracl
where I would overheat with the mishi.
If I get one I want to get the zion shroud (over $400 is a lot tho) and a good spal fan, unless I can find a oem shrouded elect. fan (if I recall I saw something about a saab or Volvo elect fan fitting e36s??) ill prob stick with oem set up for a bit..
I'm not a big fan (no pun intended) of just slapping a fan on a rad with out proper shrouding. beit oem or a/m
That's a very clean example of the 328is, and you are right, other than the M3 it is the one to have. A lot less likely to be dogged hard too.
Congratulations, I hope you do well with it. It looks like you are sparing no expense getting it up to standards.
Your E36 is inspiring. I really enjoy my car, very nice driver that feels like a BMW should, I am just debating hard whether or not to sink more money into it fixing all the little details knowing I drive it about 120 miles a day, it has 220k on it already, and it has almost zero value. If it was a 2 door 328is I think it would be a no brainer, but being a 4 door has me on the fence. I just cant think of any new cars I would enjoy driving that much.
Sedans were used alot in the OG dtm races. I think the only thing to consider when turning into a track car is that it is harder to fit a larger racing seat in a sedan due to the b pillar being much further up than the coupe.
There isnt much more dofferent between the two, although that is always up for debate.
Oh yeah but with a sedan you get 4 doors for more wh**es. Obvious advanatge.
thanks man, I got my car with almost 222k on it, and as expected some parts showed that age and miles, but I don't have an issue maintaining my car, I'm the type if its bad, upgrade it. plus I plan on tracking more in 2018, so things I do is for that.
4 doors are nice, and as thrifty s50 states, not much differences between the 2. I personally like both and would be doing the same as I am now if I had a 4dr.
only reason I went with a 2dr over 4drs is all my cars since I was 16 have been 4dr. (98 civic, 96 civic, 02 g20) so for me it was time for a 2dr. and If I didn't get this 2dr
I was actually going to get a silver 4dr 328, but the 2dr was avail so I ended up with this.
and not only room for your BBWs you got plenty of room for tools, wheels, jacks etc when it comes time to head to the track. lol
Almost ready to install the E46 330/328 BBK.
got 4 wagner rotors, new shoes, and seals, just waiting on pads and hard motorsports brake ducts
My Black Friday Sale purchase started to slowly come in
HPS rad hoses came in
[img]insert image once taken -_-[/img]
Koyo Rad came in
UUC Motorwerks sway bars came in
Caliper rebuild kits came in (just waiting on my brake pads)
Hard Motorsport Brake ducting kit was shipped today!
What pads are you going to be running w/ the E46 brakes?
I'm not sure if it's a big difference on a e36, on my last car it was a huge difference.
Air is like electricity, wants to go the route with least resistance, the ducting forces air through the radiator where as a non ducted radiator the air will go around it.
And shrouding allows the fan to suck air through the whole radiator, not just the spot where the fan is mounted.
So a shroud will utilize the whole radiator.
I am awaiting the Mishi Rad and Electric Fan w/ Shroud Set up . I will happily guinea pig the set up on its track merits for us
Rest of cooling system will be stock (minus Metal Impeller W.P. and Aluminum W.P. Pully) once i am able to get it all installed.
The Koyo looks nice, checking them out now. But Mishi's lifetime warranty on both the rad and Fan were too attractive. I guess we will see!
We'll see, I've had the R8s but that was on a Wilwood kit. if the R6s aren't enough I will look into something else.
"G-LOC™ R6
Posted By G-LOC Brakes
The R6 has been specifically engineered for Autocross applications. An ultra-high cold torque compound delivering consistent performance from dead cold (0°F) up to 1000°F+ (0°C to 537°C+). The advanced compound matrix provides an excellent initial bite, high coefficient of friction at lower temperatures along with very progressive brake modulation and release characteristics. The R6™ compound is widely used for street use as well, but this compound will more than likely make noise on the street. G-LOC™ doesn’t recommend street driving on with R6 due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise. R6 is NOT recommended for road racing (closed circuit) use in most applications."
I chose these as they can be streetable. and work at colder temps. and I'm not too worried about cooking the brakes as I will have the ducting.
I saw the mishi's shroud, not much of a shroud than a mount for the fan if you ask me.
luckly the e36 already have ducting to help with the cooling, that why I think people can get away with no shroud with elect slim fans
this is what I was looking into and think when I say shroud.
https://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/...xpansion-tank/
as for my G20 this was the ducting I made to keep temps down
Last edited by Ajaxx1989; 12-06-2017 at 08:10 PM.
Some more stuff came in today
EMP/Stewart High flow water pump.
Fan Clutch tools
Volvo Electric radiator fan (from the JY)
Here is the Volvo fan on the Koyo rad
I followed this DIY https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Fan-Conversion
some timming was needed
some more racecar sh** came in today
these will go on when the E46 brakes goes on
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