Eurometric Rear Subframe Bushing Install - Top or Bottom?

[mjweimer]

Having some difficulties and I would like to hear from others who have installed the latest style of the Eurometric rear subframe bushings with the centered flange.

My original subframe bushings ('82 320i) were installed with the flange mounted below the subframe "ear". I installed the new bushings in the same orientation and the top diff cover bolts now hit the body of the car.

Should I move the bushings to on top of the subframe flange? This will obviously gain some clearance but I am concerned that this will be a wasted effort and I am missing something else.

Not looking forward to re-working everything.....


Thanks,

MJ

[mjweimer]

So to follow up on my own post....I thought I would share my experience with others who may run into the same issue in the future.

I dropped the subframe again and placed the Eurometric mounts on the top side of the subframe "ears" and bolted everything back in place. The differential now has enough space to fit in the chassis and has about 3/8" of clearance. Good news.



However another unexpected issue was discovered - the differential hanger was too long.



I don't think that there is any way to keep the correct geometry and get the bolts back in so I decided to modify the hanger.

Center-line difference between the holes on the rear diff cover and the hanger was 12mm so time to cut:



Once cut and edges cleaned up and beveled it was time to weld:



Here is comparison of the stock and modified hangers:



Rough install to double check fit:



Painted the welded areas with light gray paint for ease of inspecting for cracks in the future (I don't hold my welding in high regard...ha) and torqued the bolts.


I think the Eurometric subframe bushings are a very high quality product and I fully expect them to make a big difference in the feel of the car. There is very little rotational flex in the subframe assy. now compared with the old mounts (115k miles). Would still like to hear from others who have installed these to find out if they had any issues similar to mine. Would have saved a lot of time and grief had I known what to expect prior to beginning the install.

MJ

[autox320]

Hey there,
looks similar to the E30's when using "race" poly from AKG or etc. Bushing can be mounted thick flange or thin on top depending on what want to do. E30's are two piece so makes it easy. Thin side up it raises the subframe approx 12-13mm. Should raise rear roll center. The E30 diff mount to match has a slot in the bushing oriented vertical so it fits either configuration. Diff gets close to the body. I wouldn't see any other way to raise it without cutting the diff mount like that. Good job IMO.

[pommeree]

That is one damn fine bead right there.

[meeceboy78]

I'll let you know. i'm getting ready to do mine in a few weeks. thank you for the information though.

[mjweimer]

That is one damn fine bead right there.

Thanks - sometimes you get lucky. Probably could have used a touch less wire speed...if you look closely at the weld on the other side you will see I got a bit off-track as I approached my initial tack weld. Not nearly as pretty but it had good penetration.

I'll let you know. i'm getting ready to do mine in a few weeks. thank you for the information though.

Good deal. The job is pretty straightforward and should make a big improvement; I am curious to find out if your stock mounts are mounted above or below the subframe ear.



MJ

[meeceboy78]

Good deal. The job is pretty straightforward and should make a big improvement; I am curious to find out if your stock mounts are mounted above or below the subframe ear.



MJ[/QUOTE]

Hey bud,
i lost your post, i meant to tell you that my original mounts were under the ear.

[mjweimer]

Hey bud,
i lost your post, i meant to tell you that my original mounts were under the ear.

Hello Ryan,

Thanks for following up. Been following your build thread and you have been making great progress - is it back on the road? I am assuming you mounted above when installing the new bushings? Did you end up shortening the diff mount too?



MJ

[meeceboy78]

Hello Ryan,

Thanks for following up. Been following your build thread and you have been making great progress - is it back on the road? I am assuming you mounted above when installing the new bushings? Did you end up shortening the diff mount too?



MJ

Hi MJ,
thanks for following along. i appreciate all the input from you. (and others)
with the crash that happened it set me back a couple of weeks, that's why you have not seen much progress updates from me. but i got stuck at the axles. the ball bearings fell out and i haven't touched it since. this part has been a very frustrating point in the build for me and Ive lost some motivation. i need to get back out there though. i was comparing the Eurometric mounts to the stocks and i think I'm going to have to do what you did and mount them up top. i will definitely keep you posted on that though.
thanks for asking buddy

[Thecatmilton]

I just bought these subframe bushings. Is the diff hanger length an issue I am going to experience?

[mjweimer]

I just bought these subframe bushings. Is the diff hanger length an issue I am going to experience?

Based on my experience, yes you will need to shorten the rear diff hanger and mount the eurometric bushings to the top side of the subframe ears rather than the bottom.

I never heard back from Ryan about his findings but there was no way (as you can see in the pics above) that the subframe could be twisted to fit the stock hanger length. I have many miles on my car since the upgrade and there have been no downsides. The rear feels really planted and there is no more NVH than the stock parts....in other words its worth the trouble.

I'll be interested to hear back on how your parts fit.


MJ