I think I have the Walbro brand because the top does have a '1' molded in it between connections just like the one on mfr site, but there isn't a 4 digit code on back of connector. I pulled the filter screen off the bottom and pump does have metal gears in it. Pump is fairly heavy, does have the 'W' stamp along with model number and date of mfr. I couldn't find the correct plug on realoem either.
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Sorry to be a party pooper, you got yourself a China knock off!
Here is an example: right pump is real, left is fake, 4 digit walbro serial number on the connector.
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Last edited by dragon850; 09-22-2017 at 11:19 PM.
I guess so, but the pumps do have very fine metal screens pressed into the bottom so I pried one off and pump does have metal gears. Its my understanding that the fake pumps use plastic gears. I will send a note to vendor and see what they say. I was planning to work on the bimmer tomorrow but this project won't be completed in a weekend, so i am going to run my formula continental tomorrow!
Last edited by JDP530; 09-22-2017 at 11:23 PM.
Newer knock offs have metal gears too. Both of my pumps had 4 digit serial numbers.
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I sent the vendor, HFP Fuel Systems, an email asking if the pumps are genuine. Will have to wait and see what their response is. But, this was their statement on website: Walbros purchased from HFP Fuel Systems will be genuine.
By HFP Fuel Systems SELLER on February 10, 2017
IT'S ALIVE!!!
Love that anticipation after you finish putting something together. You put the key in, hold your breath, and then turn it over. I was expecting to have to crank for 30 seconds to fill the lines before I knew anything. Maybe some hints that combustion was taking place, and then (if lucky) a rough idle with clouds of white smoke.
Nope - 4 seconds and she fired right up. Settled into a nice idle, with tiny bits of smoke and condensation. Not bad after not driving her for almost 3(!) years. Pumps were not in good shape...
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I gotta imagine that the sending unit in the left tank is bad also - gauge reads 1/2 full and yet the fuel is almost to the top of the opening in the right side. (And for the record - never want to do that again. Could they not have made that opening just an inch larger??)
Congrats! Yeah that looks pretty bad! But what did you use as a replacement pumps? Any pics post repair??
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I did ALOT of research to make sure I get the genuine Walbro pumps, almost every real/fake comparison thread identifies having 4 digit number on the plastic connector as one of the main clues to identify a real pump. So the seller either does not know or maybe something else...
Since everything was in such bad shape, I just bit the bullet for a new assembly from BMW - $540. At this stage, I wanted to introduce as few variables as possible into the mix instead of creating potential new issues. (no shortage of those and kept things as simple as possible)But what did you use as a replacement pumps?
Congrats Zeke! The fuel level gauge averages the sending unit float inputs from both sides of the saddle tank. Be very careful when tightening the larger diameter hose as it's very easy to crack the fitting because the wall thickness is much, much thinner than the original unit. Also, use factory-style fuel hose clamps designed for uniform pressure around the circumference. I went through four BMW units from FCP until I could get one that didn't crack and leak, even though I was very careful, especially after cracking the first one. Just tighten enough that it doesn't leak, and inspect for leaks for a few days before you button everything up since the seat removal is more involved in our early cars. This is a good time to replace your fuel filters and their short input and output hoses as well. Cut open your old filters and you'll be surprised, then understanding the importance of replacing them.
Now drive it often enough you don't need a trickle charger or you'll experience other problems. Seems their personalities are vindictive when not exercised.
Thanks Gary - that's what I figured/hoped in regards to the sending unit float inputs. Definitely will put "replace the other one" on my list, although it's a little less critical than a couple of other tasks (get the %$#! smogged, for example)
Easy with my old car to remove the back seats as I've converted to the newer ones
Whoo Hoo! Remember the days when you just took your car in and didn't think about it? Now you feel like a teenager buying something with a credit card - crossing your fingers and hoping it goes through!Happily, I passed smog a few weeks ago
I got a couple of email responses from Sean with HFP Fuel Systems. He stated that his company purchases Walbro pumps in bulk from Walbro parent company, TI Automotive.
'John,
Attached are pics of the GSS340's how they are shipped from Walbro / TI Automotive. Feel free to post these on the forums so others know what to look for, as I get tons of emails asking if our Walbro pumps are genuine.
-Sean'
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I asked him that question and he did not know, except to say that some of the newer pumps have been re-branded:
"It looks like Walbro are stamping the pumps by batch number, as I pulled another pump from a few flats down - one is marker 20617-1 and the other 20717-1. It may have been back in the day Walbro individually stamped serial numbers into the pumps, but they do not appear to do so anymore. Things may have changed in 2000 when TI Automotive purchased Walbro, or in 2014/2015 when TI Automotive rebranded Walbro as TI Automotive (other Walbro pumps will now say TI Automotive instead of Walbro, for example the F90000267 450ph pump)."
Last edited by JDP530; 09-26-2017 at 01:07 PM.
Ok, cool, well my pumps from 2015. Could you take a pic of the top of the pump too, there is a way to tell from the 2 little rivets on top of the pump if they are fake or not, fake one will have jagged edges on the rivets. We maybe over thinking this but it would suck to have a fake pump in there..
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Now on to a more pressing matter! I am having a difficult time removing OEM crimped clamps on left fuel tank carrier, and I am debating whether or not to drill an access hole to reach clamps under the floor. I sure dont want to break the plastic carrier lines.
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Edges of rivets look a bit jagged to me, but not as ragged as some of the fake pumps seen on YouTube.
Attachment 611327
Maybe the 'telltale' sign will be the noise it makes when running.
Last edited by JDP530; 09-26-2017 at 02:02 PM.
I use wire cutters to just cut them off, but they are pretty tough sometimes, make sure you don't apply any side pressure to the plastic carrier lines or they could snap. Get the long screwdriver in there and push the clamps apart. I would reuse the old lines and not bother with drilling holes since does not look till you have a leak.
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You either have a fake pumps or TI changed the way they make them, my rivet edges were very smooth and round. Pumps should be pretty much silent in the tank.
I decided to drill an access hole so I can remove OEM clamps and old hose from sending unit. But, I drilled through a small diameter, maybe 5 or 6mm, hard plastic line that was passing over the lines to sending unit. I did not see this line with mirror or feel it with my fingers. I cannot find this line on oemreal. What would this line be? It looks like it could be a vent hose for fumes. Thanks,
Last edited by JDP530; 09-26-2017 at 07:06 PM.
I removed pumps and sending unit today. Luckily, there was only a gallon of gas left in the tank. Probably why parts are so corroded since they were exposed to air for years. The top of pumps are so rotten they may fall apart as soon as I mess with them.
Rebuidable? I do have new pumps, rubber mounts, hoses, seals, etc. I poured a bottle of Seafoam on each side of tank to loosen up some of the crap on the bottom that looked like tar. Then I will swab out tank as best as I can.
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Last edited by JDP530; 10-04-2017 at 04:24 PM.
Holy smokes! Well if plastic is intact you can still rebuild. I would at least attempt.
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Well shoot - there's your problem right there - lol
I think you beat me by 10% in terms of corrosion
I have the parts so I will get started on the project soon.
I haven't even driven this car since I bought it! But, I did not want to bother trying to start it until I go through fuel and ignition systems, and re-seal intake manifold.
Who was that came up with the term 'Mission Creep'? Neither me nor a buddy of mine have heard this term before but it sure is applicable to this project car!
Was it blanz? Here is his quote I saw in another thread, but I am going much deeper starting with the first letter of alphabet: Mission Creep |def|: "When repair X ultimately leads to repair Y and Z"
Last edited by JDP530; 10-04-2017 at 04:39 PM.
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