Fuel pump stuff - seems to be a lot of this going around lately

[rockytt]

Seems like a fair amount of "crank but doesn't start" going around these days. Before I start pulling stuff apart, just wanted to make sure I had the right bits sitting around ready to go back in - #8 and #2 on the diagram - yes? Anything else that is an "auto-replace" once I get everything out? (This assumes I don't need 2 new pumps!)
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[rockytt]

And - this seems strange - everything I've read and seen shows 2 electrical connectors instead of 1 - is this something unique to early cars??

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[6speeder]

that must be the drivers side which has a fuel level sender only (no pumps), so just 1 plug. the passenger side contains BOTH fuel pumps and a fuel level sender for that side of the sadle bag gas tank and it has 2 plugs, one for the pumps (has 3 wires) and one for the fuel level sender. you dont need the gasket or strainer until you determine your pulling out the pump in which case yes those would be the min i would change. while your at it on the top of thd pump there are 2 short fuel hoses and 4 clamps on the passenger side you should replace and 1 hose and 2 clamps on the drivers side. part 3 the rubber fuel pump mounts (passenger side) on my were reduced to rubble.. literally chunks at the bottom of the tank so i would order 4 of those as well if your pulling the pass side pumps out.

unless that pic is from the passenger side of an 840 which i believe has only 1 fuel pump but i think it still would have 2 plugs no?

[rockytt]

thank you - thought I was going crazy! (Had just read a post that said "pull the left rear seat")
Pretty sure I'm going to pull the pumps, even if just to make sure everything is clean + happy in there.

[bmw528e11]

thank you - thought I was going crazy! (Had just read a post that said "pull the left rear seat")
Pretty sure I'm going to pull the pumps, even if just to make sure everything is clean + happy in there.

well, if you open the door on the right and look at the rear seats, left one would need to come off

[rockytt]

well, if you open the door on the right and look at the rear seats, left one would need to come off

That's why "port" and "starboard" come in handy!

[cartoonz]

Starboard side is your pumps. Yes, #8 & #2 are correct. #2 is for pumps on Starboard side. Unless something on the port side is leaking or the fuel gauge is otherwise messed up -leave it alone, do not take it out. Really nothing serviceable in that side and it is a pain to get it in correctly.

Replacing the gasket (#8) on the starboard pump assembly is best accomplished by installing the gasket on the tank first, then sliding the plastic pump housing down into it. Use lubricant on the rubber to be facilitate this, a bit of motor oil works wonders. Try it dry, you'll find out why...

Eventually, pretty much everyone has to deal with a leak back there. The fortunate ones just need to service the two hoses to the pumps from the metal pipes under the bulkhead... the less fortunate find the plastic pump housing fatigues and gas seeps through. If all you're really thinking is replace the screen for some sort of prophylactic measure, might not be the best idea... those screens stay clean unless the tank somehow gets really polluted - and if that is the case, the whole tank need to come out for a proper scrub...thats really not fun.

Then again, if your pumps actually die, 'while youre in there' is a good time to replace the screen...but the factory replacement pump housing assembly comes with the screens anyway

[shogun]

left/right hand side of car is from the driver's seat looking forward.
Also many online shops have this note

[rockytt]

certainly understand left/right - but was a referencing a thread that stated:

Fuel pump issues are common on cars that have been laid-up for a while. Remove the left hand rear seat base and remove the access panel in the floor. You will then get easy access to the pump connectors. Sending 12V directly to the pumps will get them running and you will hear this easily. The 2 pumps run independantly.

so my comment was a bit of a joke - thanks though...

Thanks for the tips, Cartoonz - been sitting for awhile and I'll be pulling the pumps just to see how bad things are in there. Fingers crossed that the tank doesn't have to come out

[JDP530]

certainly understand left/right - but was a referencing a thread that stated:

Thanks for the tips, Cartoonz - been sitting for awhile and I'll be pulling the pumps just to see how bad things are in there. Fingers crossed that the tank doesn't have to come out

I plan to start on my project car, '91 model, in the next week or so and the first thing I want to do is to pull fuel pumps, drain, and clean tank. I sure would appreciate your help if you could identify the part numbers for the parts you are going to order; the gasket, rubber mounts, and screen.

I have already ordered two Walbro GSS340 fuel pumps and kits to do the upgrade that Dragon850 wrote up in the DIY section.

Thanks,
JP

[dragon850]

I plan to start on my project car, '91 model, in the next week or so and the first thing I want to do is to pull fuel pumps, drain, and clean tank. I sure would appreciate your help if you could identify the part numbers for the parts you are going to order; the gasket, rubber mounts, and screen.

I have already ordered two Walbro GSS340 fuel pumps and kits to do the upgrade that Dragon850 wrote up in the DIY section.

Thanks,
JP

I don't think you really need to clean the tank, if I am not mistaken walbro pump comes with a screen.
Here is the rubber mount you will need 4 of them: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-16141180474
In retrospect I should have also replaced these when I was in there but they were not in horrible shape.
Make sure you use SUBMERSIBLE fuel line when you follow my DIY thread.

[JDP530]

Thanks for the help, dragon850!

I found the RealOEM.com site a few minutes ago and identified some of the parts I need. This site sure is a great resource! I have already started an order with fcpeuro.

Do you have part numbers for the rubber hoses that you modified for fuel supply lines to and from the filters? Thanks,

[dragon850]

Thanks for the help, dragon850!

I found the RealOEM.com site a few minutes ago and identified some of the parts I need. This site sure is a great resource! I have already started an order with fcpeuro.

Do you have part numbers for the rubber hoses that you modified for fuel supply lines to and from the filters? Thanks,

For the standard unbent hoses I used Gates green shield 220PSI fuel hose, for the pre bent molded hoses check my thread here for info and part numbers, it will also save you about $80 bucks
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...with-a-twist-)

[rockytt]

also a thanks - will be taking a peek in there on Monday to see what's up - fingers crossed!

[JDP530]

For the standard unbent hoses I used Gates green shield 220PSI fuel hose, for the pre bent molded hoses check my thread here for info and part numbers, it will also save you about $80 bucks
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...with-a-twist-)

Thanks!
Can the Gates green shield hose be used for submersible lines? Found Gates 27093 8mm/5/16"
Gates 27340 for fuel injection line 8mm/516"

I may have to spend the day reading through a lot of threads to become familiar with all systems and maintenance procedures.

[8eights]

The readings are recommended and will save you plenty, They will also transform you into helpful in the read area's,)

[JDP530]

I worked on my car this afternoon, cleaning and prepping battery tray for paint, removing rear side panels, and rear seats to access the tank ports. Looks like someone has been in to fuel pumps before since hose has the cheaper type of clamps. Also looks like someone has made a splice for pump wiring. And, the female pins to pump plug seem loose. I plan to do the Walbro upgrade and I should have the parts needed including pumps, hose, installation kits with filter socks, new seals, etc.
Tell me I can get my fingers or tools on all the hose clamps under bulkhead so that hose sections can be replaced!

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[cartoonz]

Tell me I can get my fingers or tools on all the hose clamps under bulkhead so that hose sections can be replaced!

Most common is to use a 1"-1 1/2" hole saw on the sheet metal above the offending joints, allowing permanent access. Locate it right and you can use a rubber body plug to fill the hole, or some use heavy aluminum tape over it.
Yeah, I cringed at this idea at first too... but the alternative is far from fun or simple.

[8eights]

Like this? If so, I found it easier to find the plug/grommet first and then drill the hole that size. I made the hole while the tank was low on fuel and released the fuel pressure before drilling the hole with fire extinguisher in reaching distance.)

[JDP530]

Wow, I never would have considered drilling access holes but it sure would make the job much easier! How many access holes did you need at each port?

[8eights]

Only one was needed for the pass 14 years.

[cartoonz]

Yes, just one well placed access hole covers both pipes

[dragon850]

I worked on my car this afternoon, cleaning and prepping battery tray for paint, removing rear side panels, and rear seats to access the tank ports. Looks like someone has been in to fuel pumps before since hose has the cheaper type of clamps. Also looks like someone has made a splice for pump wiring. And, the female pins to pump plug seem loose. I plan to do the Walbro upgrade and I should have the parts needed including pumps, hose, installation kits with filter socks, new seals, etc.
Tell me I can get my fingers or tools on all the hose clamps under bulkhead so that hose sections can be replaced!

IMG_20170921_160945959.jpg
IMG_20170921_161456679.jpg
IMG_20170921_165639208.jpg

Yep, someone has been in there...I wonder what you gonna find inside I also see some very minor gas leak next to the connector? If it is a connector leaking it has a small crack, it is still possible to seal it from the inside with Loctite plastic Epoxy : https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plast...=loctite+epoxy
I would only worry about drilling holes if the line is leaking.
You will absolutely need 4 of these guys, I reused my isolators once but that was pretty stupid as they were cracked and were shedding rubber into the tank, so i ordered new it was so worth it. Plus they were so freaking satisfying to pop in! https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-16141180474

Another note on Walbro GSS 340, make sure you order from the same source as I linked in the DIY thread, I have nothing to do with the seller but I actually verified the pumps I received were genuine Walbro.
There are alot of almost identical fakes floating around down to serial numbers and made in usa inscribed on the pump!

[JDP530]

Another note on Walbro GSS 340, make sure you order from the same source as I linked in the DIY thread, I have nothing to do with the seller but I actually verified the pumps I received were genuine Walbro.
There are alot of almost identical fakes floating around down to serial numbers and made in usa inscribed on the pump!

Thanks for noting the possible leak. I haven't started the car since I bought it and its been sitting a while. I want to go through most of the fuel system and secondary ignition to eliminate any potential problems before i try to run it. These are the Walbro pumps I received and they look like genuine Walbro pumps. Walbro could not verify that the pumps I have are theirs but he did say the number stamped below part number is the date-of-mfr.
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Is there suppose to be an electrical plug that fits onto fuel pump carrier? All I see are three female connectors and it looks like those have been spliced into harness. Can a plug be obtained anywhere?
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[dragon850]

Thanks for noting the possible leak. I haven't started the car since I bought it and its been sitting a while. I want to go through most of the fuel system and secondary ignition to eliminate any potential problems before i try to run it. These are the Walbro pumps I received and they look like genuine Walbro pumps. Walbro could not verify that the pumps I have are theirs but he did say the number stamped below part number is the date-of-mfr.
IMG_20170922_135505636.jpg
IMG_20170922_134424177.jpg

Is there suppose to be an electrical plug that fits onto fuel pump carrier? All I see are three female connectors and it looks like those have been spliced into harness. Can a plug be obtained anywhere?
IMG_20170921_161435631.jpg

Can't tell 100% if it's real or not, take a pic of the top of the pump and the back plastic part of the electrical connector, there should be 4 digit part number engraved there.
Could not find the fuel pump connector on real oem.