shogun - any trick to getting those guys to respond? Granted this was last year, but I left no fewer than 6 voicemail messages asking to buy a rebuilt VB and possibly a rebuilt trans and never heard a peep back from anyone. Just interested to know if anyone has even had luck getting a response from them.
'07 e65|N62 - Alpina B7 - Black Sapphire|Black|Loaded|GONE
'02 e46|M54 - Orient Blue|Beige|'Vert|GONE
'00 e39|M52 - Anthrazit Metallic|Grey|GONE
'01 e38|M73 - Anthrazit Metallic|Schwarz|Shadow-Line|GONE
'91 e31|M70 - Schwarz|Schwarz|M70|FOR SALE
'13 328i Auto - Black Sapphire|Coral Red|Sport Line|GONE
'05 545i SMG - Jet Black|Black|Bamboo Anthracite|GONE
'07 335i Auto - Montego Blue|Grey|GONE
'05 545i SMG - (Euro Delivery 7/22/05)|Black Sapphire|Auburn|GONE
'97 528i Auto - GONE
I did not buy anything there to far, maybe you send an email? Or try Eriksson Industries, division of Wentworth Engineering Inc.,146 B Elm Street, Old Saybrook, CT 06475, 800-388-4418, 860-395-0047 Fax , eriksson.indust@snet.net
they are authorized ZF distributor and I have read good comments about their service.
Usually they do not have all on their online shop, so better call.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
'07 e65|N62 - Alpina B7 - Black Sapphire|Black|Loaded|GONE
'02 e46|M54 - Orient Blue|Beige|'Vert|GONE
'00 e39|M52 - Anthrazit Metallic|Grey|GONE
'01 e38|M73 - Anthrazit Metallic|Schwarz|Shadow-Line|GONE
'91 e31|M70 - Schwarz|Schwarz|M70|FOR SALE
'13 328i Auto - Black Sapphire|Coral Red|Sport Line|GONE
'05 545i SMG - Jet Black|Black|Bamboo Anthracite|GONE
'07 335i Auto - Montego Blue|Grey|GONE
'05 545i SMG - (Euro Delivery 7/22/05)|Black Sapphire|Auburn|GONE
'97 528i Auto - GONE
Need some guidance. I started to remove the valve body and it looks lime the loom is connected to the tran. I tried to remove the brown tabs from each of the solenoid but it they are so brittle that I'm worries I'll destroy them trying. Is there a trick to taking these buggers out? Am I correct in that the loom does not detach from the trans?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
To remove the connector there is a large nut on the outside, then remove the valve body complete with the wiring harness. All of the connector shells on the solenoids will be brittle so unless you are changing out the solenoids leave them connected. Its a good idea to replace the o-ring on the connector when you reinstall.
VB3.JPG
Last edited by BMSman; 09-21-2017 at 07:48 PM.
Thanks, I'll give it a go.
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Yup. It’s a thin black plastic nut, so easy to miss and a bear to get a good grip on it when the trans is in the car. Let us know how it goes.
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'07 e65|N62 - Alpina B7 - Black Sapphire|Black|Loaded|GONE
'02 e46|M54 - Orient Blue|Beige|'Vert|GONE
'00 e39|M52 - Anthrazit Metallic|Grey|GONE
'01 e38|M73 - Anthrazit Metallic|Schwarz|Shadow-Line|GONE
'91 e31|M70 - Schwarz|Schwarz|M70|FOR SALE
'13 328i Auto - Black Sapphire|Coral Red|Sport Line|GONE
'05 545i SMG - Jet Black|Black|Bamboo Anthracite|GONE
'07 335i Auto - Montego Blue|Grey|GONE
'05 545i SMG - (Euro Delivery 7/22/05)|Black Sapphire|Auburn|GONE
'97 528i Auto - GONE
The nut os still on there. Are you not able to get that loose. I know it’s tough to maneuver in there.
The first time I loosened mine, I had to get a stubby screwdriver and try to catch one of those edges and give it small light little taps until it came loose. Then it came right off.
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'07 e65|N62 - Alpina B7 - Black Sapphire|Black|Loaded|GONE
'02 e46|M54 - Orient Blue|Beige|'Vert|GONE
'00 e39|M52 - Anthrazit Metallic|Grey|GONE
'01 e38|M73 - Anthrazit Metallic|Schwarz|Shadow-Line|GONE
'91 e31|M70 - Schwarz|Schwarz|M70|FOR SALE
'13 328i Auto - Black Sapphire|Coral Red|Sport Line|GONE
'05 545i SMG - Jet Black|Black|Bamboo Anthracite|GONE
'07 335i Auto - Montego Blue|Grey|GONE
'05 545i SMG - (Euro Delivery 7/22/05)|Black Sapphire|Auburn|GONE
'97 528i Auto - GONE
Screwdriver did the trick! Thanks for that. Managed to get the vb off and cleaned the solenoids. It was pretty gunky in there.
Waiting on a new filter and will report back once completed but the Shogun write up is pure gold. Definitely a DIY if you can follow directions and don't mind getting oily.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
was the plug oily inside? When the plug gets old and brittle, ATF comes thru the brittle plastic around the pins, when there is enough ATF inside there, it causes electric trouble. Instead of buying a complete new valve body harness, you can fix it
How To: ZF 5HP30 control cable plug/gland oil leak - glue fix
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...2#post29737042
This plug is not available as single item, I already tried to get one with some members here on the forum, but the search failed. Some older looms are even no longer available new like the one for my 8-pin 4HP24.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Luckily, plug was not oily inside and happy to report shifting has smoothed out. Feels like butter compared to to before the fix. I discovered the PO installed the incorrect filter (did not have a suction neck) and no filter O ring gasket to boot. I figure it could have been as simple as that but glad I cleaned the VB and solenoids.
Thanks to all who took the time to chime in and provide guidance.
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I've just finished this job on my car with the 4hp24, but I am a bit confused on filling the fluid. According to this page http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/ja...Valvebody.html, the temperature should be measured and then the level checked corresponding to that. However, the "max" levels listed there are mostly far below the high mark on my dipstick. Should I disregard the markings on the dipstick and just use the level measurement? I can't find any official documents from ZF on this.
I changed filter and fluid in the 4HP24 in my '91 earlier this week and its surprising how low the fluid level is when trans is cold to warm. I drained about 5 qts out when doing the filter change so I refilled with 4 qts and have slowly added more oil apprx 1 qt, but until its warm I can't even see fluid on the stick. Fluid must expand an awful lot to show up on the stick.
The proper procedure is to fill it cold, until fluid runs out, close it. Then crank the car and let it idle until the transmission temp reaches 30°C. Open the plug again and start filling until it starts pouring out and you’re done. The second fill must begin at 30°C and be completed by 50°C.
Normally we do this with the BMW GT1 or ISTA diagnostic to monitor trans temps but any other kind of diagnostic equipment that has this capability will work.
Last edited by killian665; 02-24-2018 at 04:45 PM.
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