Yeah they push away from each other at an angle. I know in most of the domestic diffs including a 9 inch one of the first things you have to do to them to hold alot of power is replace the crush sleeve with a solid spacer. The one I have in mine came with a selection of shims to set the preload on the pinion bearings.
$99 for that is pretty hilarious, talk about bmw tax. They are like 10 bucks for every other rear end. I also really like the $500 pinion bearings they have listed. Get the F out
http://store.teammfactory.com/e8x-e9...bearings-pair/
So I have been rebuilding my 210mm diff myself.
I have two full sets of pinion shims from BMW. They were $30 each. The carrier shims were the expensive ones. They were $125.
Talking to DiffsOnline and Wangan they are about the same price to do rebuilds. Dan at DiffsOnline is a much nicer dude. Wangan is very rude and arrogant over PM. I offered to pay the guy to finish my build because I have been too busy at work and all I got back was attitude.....not sure I wanna do business with someone like that. Maybe he was having a bad two days? At no point did I ask for anything for free.
I have thought about making a pinion spacer, but Dan was telling me that stock crush sleeves can handle 1200hp. So it may not be worth it?
When I disassembled the diff I pulled the bearing part numbers off of the old bearings. I replaced everything with brand new Timken stuff. I think it was about $150 for all new bearings and races from Rock Auto. I may be able to get all of the Timken part numbers for you. Its in my email. Hammered out the old races with a variety of punches. I used the old races to help me press in the new races, so I didn't have to make any race pressing tools. I made a pinion flange holder tool so I could get proper torque on things. I also purchased the BMW TIS for the 210mm units. I could maybe upload that if anyone wants it? I like having data.
I went from stock 3.15 to new Motorsport 3.64 gears (NLA BTW). Its all in my thread. I need to update the thread soon. I have no pictures lately. My pattern on the gear was too deep so that's why I ordered a 2nd thinner set of BMW pinion shims. I started with the pinion shim kit that matched the stock shim that was in there since it was right in the middle of the kit for size.
I think I have less than $500 in all brand new bearings, shims, and BMW factory seals and parts. It is way cheaper to do it yourself if you fee like tackling it.
Last edited by 3literheater; 09-12-2017 at 04:07 AM.
A NEW Oem bmw 188mm crush washer if properly setup will be more than enough for 98% of the folks playing with forced induction and engine swaps; Don't even have to move to the 210mm unit components to prove this point.
Proper setup beats buying random parts one does not have the experience to install; if setup properly a 188mm unit can take over 50 passes at 1krwhp without failure; it may not be ideal but can do the job if needed.
For those pushing low 9's or 8's going to a properly built 210mm is more than highly suggested/
For those who are looking to save money a ford 8.8 can be purchased from summit racing for lowballer millennial money; This makes it much easier to fit in at cars and coffee with mustang owners.
Last edited by wanganstyle; 09-12-2017 at 06:51 AM.
Wanganstyle Powertrain
http://www.wanganstyle.com/
S54B32 E36 M3 DTA S100 Sedan Street car full swap:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1437471
The problem I had with the 188mm diff was not the diff breaking but the output stubs breaking. I broke or twisted several of the larger M3 stubs. Maybe with an automatic transmission and bias ply slicks, the output stubs would survive, but not with a stick and drag radials.
No that's typical. Dan is expensive but very polite and helpful. The other guy doesn't seem to be able to communicate on the internet without being a prick.
And for the record, I don't begrudge Dan his prices, he does work for professional racing teams like Bimmerworld so it's just service on a level that's not in my ballpark. But he doesn't require that it's all or nothing. For instance if you want different ramps, you can send him your shells and he will cut and harden them for you for a very reasonable price and then you can do the rest of it.
But again, for something like changing bearings and setting the shims, that should be a very pedestrian job for any decent driveline shop, you should be able to find someone to do it locally no problem. If you don't want to do it yourself, you shouldn't need to ship the diff anywhere.
Speaking of which....what gear oil are you all running with this diff?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Ive had great Diff builds from Syncro Design Works .
Hey Buddy!
Is it too much to ask if you can send me your detailed info? like the TIS, part numbers, etc for the 210 Units?
thanks!
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