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Thread: Spring Rates for TC Kline DAs

  1. #26
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    That is definitely good to know

    If anyone else with Koni based shocks is looking for a more economical place to have them rebuilt I found these guys:

    http://racingeclipse.com/services/custom-shock-services

    They said rebuilds will be in the $125-150 range as they are not a Koni dealer and need to purchase parts from another vendor but that still beats paying $200 for Tru Choice or Pro Parts as Koni no longer rebuilds their own shocks in Kentucky.

    Justin with RE said he could revalve to Konis to handle whatever spring rates I desired which might be the way to go so I have more options here.

  2. #27
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    1998 M3, 2001 530i
    I run 336 front, 448 rear (Swift metric springs) on my TCK DAs. With really big sways. It's perfect for the street, but I bottom out the fronts on one section of my local track. I think I just convinced myself to go up to 392/504.

  3. #28
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    #Project333Ti & Z3 Coupe
    How many miles is everyone getting out of their DAs? I have about 20k street and canyon miles on mine.

    Also, I just called Racing Eclipse, and they 100% DO NOT do Koni anymore.
    Last edited by e30polak; 09-01-2017 at 04:56 PM.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by e30polak View Post
    How many miles is everyone getting out of their DAs? I have about 20k street and canyon miles on mine.

    Also, I just called Racing Eclipse, and they 100% DO NOT do Koni anymore.
    Weird that they said that to you. I called this week was given Justin's cell phone number and he said they could rebuild Konis no problem. Pm me and I'll give you his number.

  5. #30
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    79 323i, 94 325is, 13 M3
    According to the manufacturer's representative, Konis never wear out, you just need to set the rebound a little bit stiffer and it will get you back to where you were in new spec. He said he expected six-figure mileage out of a set unless somebody was really banging the gators constantly at the track, OR bottoming them out repeatedly. Apparently if you're the original purchaser with a receipt, they are lifetime guaranteed. The auto business is kind of a sideline for them. Their main business is railroad cars, thus the durability.
    If God meant for man to motor-swap LS engines into track cars, He wouldn't have created Corvettes.

  6. #31
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    I got a used set of TCK DAs a couple seasons ago. They're the older gold bodied ones. The rears were leaking so i had them rebuilt at ProParts. Interestingly, they dyno'ed perfectly fine before the rebuild, but I chose to rebuild anyway to run an updated valve which supposedly quiets them down a bit (the rear TCK DAs like to make clunky noises 'by design') and a bigger machined bushing at the rebound adjuster which is more robust. The fronts I never had rebuilt, but i can still tell the difference between quarter turn adjustments so it seems they still work fine. These are probably 6-7 years old, but mostly track miles.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXBDan View Post
    I got a used set of TCK DAs a couple seasons ago. They're the older gold bodied ones. The rears were leaking so i had them rebuilt at ProParts. Interestingly, they dyno'ed perfectly fine before the rebuild, but I chose to rebuild anyway to run an updated valve which supposedly quiets them down a bit (the rear TCK DAs like to make clunky noises 'by design') and a bigger machined bushing at the rebound adjuster which is more robust. The fronts I never had rebuilt, but i can still tell the difference between quarter turn adjustments so it seems they still work fine. These are probably 6-7 years old, but mostly track miles.
    Dan what spring rates do you run on your DAs and do you know how much spring rate proparts said the rears are good for after the rebuild?

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by VRT View Post
    Dan what spring rates do you run on your DAs and do you know how much spring rate proparts said the rears are good for after the rebuild?
    See post #16

    I had mine rebuild to original TCK specs, but ProParts said they could change the valving to accommodate different/higher spring rates. Not sure how high they could ultimately go.

    If i keep these shocks, i'm going to run 600/700 next year. I can swap my current rear springs to the front and just get new rears. (if anyone wants to buy these and force me to buy some MCSs just give me a ping :P)

  9. #34
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    Ahh I missed that, I just got off the phone with True Choice in Ohio and can put this one to rest for everyone

    The TC Klines are valved to work best with 300-600lb springs out of the box. They will handle 700 but that is not ideal. With a revalve the sky is the limit and they said I would have no problem running 5-800lb fronts and 7-1000lb rears.
    Last edited by VRT; 09-08-2017 at 11:48 AM.

  10. #35
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    I have been running a set of TCK D/A on my E36 M3 for 3 seasons now (HPDE advanced group, 8-10 events a season) with an H&R Front sway. Rates I went with are 600 front, 700 rear and I have zero complaints about this setup. I am running -3.5˚ of camber up front but the car is very very predictable and will rotate easily if needed. Just my .02

    - Max

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXBDan View Post
    I got a used set of TCK DAs a couple seasons ago. They're the older gold bodied ones. The rears were leaking so i had them rebuilt at ProParts. Interestingly, they dyno'ed perfectly fine before the rebuild, but I chose to rebuild anyway to run an updated valve which supposedly quiets them down a bit (the rear TCK DAs like to make clunky noises 'by design') and a bigger machined bushing at the rebound adjuster which is more robust. The fronts I never had rebuilt, but i can still tell the difference between quarter turn adjustments so it seems they still work fine. These are probably 6-7 years old, but mostly track miles.
    Did the rebuild actually quiet them down? My rear right has the most annoying rattle..:

  12. #37
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    95 BMW M Techniq SCCA Ep
    Good information, but I would like to know front and rear toe, front caster, and ride height at the jacking points, front and rear....suggestions?

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
    Did the rebuild actually quiet them down? My rear right has the most annoying rattle..:
    Maybe a little, but not much. They're still annoying on slow (<35mph) rough roads. Once you're up over 35mph or so the noise goes away and of course there's no noise on smooth or even average roads. I also tried installing the rubber orings like some have suggested, but it didn't do anything. Fortunately, i rarely drive the car on the street so its not a big deal for me.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXBDan View Post
    Maybe a little, but not much. They're still annoying on slow (<35mph) rough roads. Once you're up over 35mph or so the noise goes away and of course there's no noise on smooth or even average roads. I also tried installing the rubber orings like some have suggested, but it didn't do anything. Fortunately, i rarely drive the car on the street so its not a big deal for me.
    Your experience sums up mine as well

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