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Thread: E30 Cabriolet Carpet Replacement?

  1. #1
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    E30 Cabriolet Carpet Replacement?

    Friends,

    My 92 cabriolet is generally in great shape except the carpet is not only excessively dirty in places (only so much steaming and scrubbing can do) but also has several tears in the drivers area.

    So my question is this -- can a replacement be purchased and how hard is it to install? I found one vendor online (http://roadworksauto.com) and would love to hear about anyone's experience with this one and/or others. Looking to get as close to OEM as possible -- carpet color is tan/natural.

    Of course, if someone is selling a natural carpet in good shape, let me know!

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Pelican Parts's Avatar
    Pelican Parts is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    Hello - if you're interested in getting a new set, take a look at the link below. We've heard nothing but good things about the brand and quality of product.

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...mats_start.htm
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  3. #3
    Join Date
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    1989 325ic
    Quote Originally Posted by Pelican Parts View Post
    Hello - if you're interested in getting a new set, take a look at the link below. We've heard nothing but good things about the brand and quality of product.

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...mats_start.htm
    +1 for the Lloyd Mats. I got a set for my cabrio and they are great. With those and a super good cleaning on your stock carpet, you may find you don't need to replace with a full re-carpet kit. The stock carpet has form-fit foam; aftermarket ones might also but ymmv.

    I worked on my carpet in-place extensively, finally bit the bullet and removed it to finish the job. Makes a huge difference to take it out and clean it. Also gives you great access to the floor, under-floor vents, wiring, etc to clean it all out. Best to check for leaks while carpet is out too. After repeated cleanings with rug steamer, rotary scrub brush, etc and several days of ozone treatment with an ozone generator for carpet, all removed/cleaned parts, and cleaned-out car interior, the musty smell is completely gone and has stayed that way.

  4. #4
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    92 E30 Cab, 06 E46 330Ci
    Many thanks for the suggestion -- how hard (read: technical expertise) is necessary to remove the carpet altogether? I'm comfortable removing the seats and basic trim etc. Thanks for the advice.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner2009 View Post
    Many thanks for the suggestion -- how hard (read: technical expertise) is necessary to remove the carpet altogether? I'm comfortable removing the seats and basic trim etc. Thanks for the advice.
    If you don't mind cutting around the HVAC box, it's easy. If you do, it's full dash disassembly.

    Personally, I just cut around the HVAC box. It's 100% covered by the console trim.

    I find that soaking it with Spray 9 and then powerwashing is extremely effective. You may still need to re-dye it (I really like the Bryndana Colorbond products), but you will be staggered by the amount of crap that comes out.

    Plan on literally an hour of powerwashing, and then a week for the carpet to dry off.
    2011 M3 Sedan
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
    1999 323i GTS2
    1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
    1990 325is
    1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ

    Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
    Hers: 1989 325iX


  6. #6
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    I took my time on each step and had the carpet all-but-out in about 3 hours' work spread over several days. Then a few hours spread over 2 weeks to try in vain to get it dry enough in place. Then cut around the HVAC box and had it out in an hour, including careful minimal cutting. Spent 4-5 more hours scrubbing & wet-vac cleaning; as Nick says, it's amazing how much dirt comes out -and keeps coming out when you do another pass after your first cleaning or two. Pressure wash would speed this up but I was wary of damaging the foam rubber backing, and I had no place to do it. Another week or so in a drying room, first with dehumidifiers & fan, then with ozone treatment, while tracking leaks, cleaning & prepping the interior.

    While disassembled, every seat, panel, and part face got a good cleaning; the seats, panels, padding, and all parts also got a week in a dry room with 2 dehumidifiers, then several days' ozone treatment. Then another cleaning, to take off everything the ozone treatment killed off or loosened. The gutted car interior was also closed up while emptied out, getting a week of dehumidifier and its own few days' ozone treatment. Then I had the top replaced.

    Getting the carpet back in was a few hours' work, most of it spent figuring out exactly how I wanted to do it. Got my wife and son to help with pushing, tugging, pressing etc for 20 minutes once I'd figured out just what & where I wanted them going at it with me. Once it was in place it was a few hours to get all the bits back in, mainly because I was taking my time, savoring the re-assembly process - which really felt like a victory lap, after all the time and labor I'd spent in breakdown, leak tracking, and carpets/upholstery/parts cleaning.

    Sound like a lot of work? It was. But, several months later, that "old car smell" is still gone. You could do it all a lot faster: basic take-out and first-pass cleaning could be done on a Saturday; second-pass on the carpet and clean whatever else you want on Sunday; dry/dehumidify (and maybe an ozone treatment day) til next weekend; put it all back together next Saturday, with Sunday to drive it around and revel in your handiwork.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobdavisnpf View Post
    I took my time on each step and had the carpet all-but-out in about 3 hours' work spread over several days. Then a few hours spread over 2 weeks to try in vain to get it dry enough in place. Then cut around the HVAC box and had it out in an hour, including careful minimal cutting. Spent 4-5 more hours scrubbing & wet-vac cleaning; as Nick says, it's amazing how much dirt comes out -and keeps coming out when you do another pass after your first cleaning or two. Pressure wash would speed this up but I was wary of damaging the foam rubber backing, and I had no place to do it. Another week or so in a drying room, first with dehumidifiers & fan, then with ozone treatment, while tracking leaks, cleaning & prepping the interior.

    While disassembled, every seat, panel, and part face got a good cleaning; the seats, panels, padding, and all parts also got a week in a dry room with 2 dehumidifiers, then several days' ozone treatment. Then another cleaning, to take off everything the ozone treatment killed off or loosened. The gutted car interior was also closed up while emptied out, getting a week of dehumidifier and its own few days' ozone treatment. Then I had the top replaced.

    Getting the carpet back in was a few hours' work, most of it spent figuring out exactly how I wanted to do it. Got my wife and son to help with pushing, tugging, pressing etc for 20 minutes once I'd figured out just what & where I wanted them going at it with me. Once it was in place it was a few hours to get all the bits back in, mainly because I was taking my time, savoring the re-assembly process - which really felt like a victory lap, after all the time and labor I'd spent in breakdown, leak tracking, and carpets/upholstery/parts cleaning.

    Sound like a lot of work? It was. But, several months later, that "old car smell" is still gone. You could do it all a lot faster: basic take-out and first-pass cleaning could be done on a Saturday; second-pass on the carpet and clean whatever else you want on Sunday; dry/dehumidify (and maybe an ozone treatment day) til next weekend; put it all back together next Saturday, with Sunday to drive it around and revel in your handiwork.
    As long as you aren't spraying the foam directly with the pressure washer, it's safe.
    2011 M3 Sedan
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
    1999 323i GTS2
    1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
    1990 325is
    1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ

    Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
    Hers: 1989 325iX


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