Turbo e30 street car

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Appears to be organic type.

From what I understand organics generally require a longer "break-in time" than other types of clutch materials like sinter, ceramic, etc. Which generally allow you to get on it right away.

[euro2fast4u]

From what I understand organics generally require a longer "break-in time" than other types of clutch materials like sinter, ceramic, etc. Which generally allow you to get on it right away.

Thats unfortunate. The directions say to follow the e36 oem break in procedure but i think that says 500 miles of light around town driving. I have not been able to put my hands or down load a copy of one yet.


Guess ill keep putting the miles on it. Started on the front end body work and paint prep. Actually going to be happy to take it to shows instead of blahh

[Robocop]

on the topic of clutch break in kevlar literally never breaks in.
you can get on it that first drive, because it will never ever bed to anything.
Also i do not recommend kevlar unless you treat it like a sweet boy and don't abuse it.

[euro2fast4u]

So what i gathered is i should put 500 miles of normal use on it then i can really go to the track and do hard pulls.

Started prepping the front end for paint. I hate sanding...

[someguy2800]

on the topic of clutch break in kevlar literally never breaks in.
you can get on it that first drive, because it will never ever bed to anything.
Also i do not recommend kevlar unless you treat it like a sweet boy and don't abuse it.

An organic disc transfers a thin film of itself material onto the pressure plate and flywheel surface and it works by the material essentially sticking to itself and creating a temporary bond. The ceramic materials create friction by mechanically abrading the surface, so a ceramic disk is also good to go as soon as the disc and pressure plates have mated to each other, which literally takes a few drives.

[euro2fast4u]

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Any one have a recommendation on how to upload photos and share easily with out it auto rotating and such?

[euro2fast4u]

Skim coat of filler on the bumper and erl change on black betty

[euro2fast4u]

moving closer to that 3 foot paint job

[euro2fast4u]

Make shift paint booth. seems to work well enough and contain the overspray.

[euro2fast4u]

Went to the strip on Friday, hot day, slow for sure but overall happy with the 1 second I shaved from last fall. The new clutch was tough to get used to on the track. I should have driven more street miles to get a hang of it. Def hurt my 60' as i kept bogging every time.

Since im on e85, ive noticed im running out of injectors. Fuel flow rate should be there but could be more optimized for sure. Im looking at the ID 1050x injectors. Anyone know if the M5x injectors are plug and play?

Added boost as the night got cooler, but ended up hitting a miss fire again around 15 psi.

Sunday i swapped out plugs for BRP8ES which is one step cooler then the 7's. i went tuning and added about 10° overall to the positive part of the map. Car feels better. Most interesting part is as i added timing the boost levels went down. Pretty cool

[euro2fast4u]

More info, decided to datalog the fuel pressure going into the FPR i have received some interesting info.

During warm up i get a pre fuel rail pressure of around 43/45 psi.
During pulls, my pre fuel pressure increases as boost increases up to around 70psi.
End of my 1 hour drive, pressure drops down to 20-30 psi pre fuel rail.


What are your thoughts.

[euro2fast4u]

Hit up the track last night and ran in to boris. He ran 8.24 and was moving! he also snagged some photos.

Great to see the timing really helped yesterday. I did up the boost and slowly gained mph but still couldnt launch the car.

Today i modified the voltage regulator to up the voltage to get some more ability out of the coil. I gained about 3 psi and now i am settled around 19.5 lbs. Limited peak boost was around 22 but could not keep it from blowing the spark out.

best time was a 12.5 and the best mph was 120. around 17lbs.

I need to setup the launch control and flat shift shifting to save some more time.

I still could not get the launch below 2.2 / 2.3. When i wheel hopped the s** out of it, i seemed to do the best but was violent as s***.

[Robocop]

i'm just amazed that the walbro 450 feeding a 255 isn't overrunning the fpr.
real jealous.

[euro2fast4u]

i'm just amazed that the walbro 450 feeding a 255 isn't overrunning the fpr.
real jealous.

Yea i sorta figured i would have issues as well. I do still have the oem lines which is allowing additional pressure drop.

Anyone know if there is a limit to plug gap? im at .023" not sure if its even worth going any smaller or best practice on how to. I also reduced the fuel and it helped with the duty cycle. I was running a bit rich.

Lastly, anyone know why the aem flex sensor jumps around or experienced this?

[chikinhed]

Wheel hop in these cars will do structural damage to the body and the driveline. Don’t be tempted to stay on the throttle when it hops.

[someguy2800]

Yea i sorta figured i would have issues as well. I do still have the oem lines which is allowing additional pressure drop.

Anyone know if there is a limit to plug gap? im at .023" not sure if its even worth going any smaller or best practice on how to. I also reduced the fuel and it helped with the duty cycle. I was running a bit rich.

Lastly, anyone know why the aem flex sensor jumps around or experienced this?

Plug gaps down to .017 or even lower will work are are sometimes necessary but will not be beneficial unless your getting spark blowout at your current boost level.

My last setup the flex sensor would randomly jump up and down which would throw the fueling way off. The flex percentage would jump from 85 to 0% momentarily which would make the motor go way lean as the ECU was reducing the pulse width according to the sensor readings. After I figured out what was going on I unplugged the sensor and only ever plugged it in to check the content when I filled the tank and then I would unplug it again an enter the percentage into the fallback percentage setting in tuner studio. I never did figure out why it did that, the same sensor and plug on my current setup never has an issue, but I did rewire the power and ground when I changed ecu's

[Robocop]

Wheel hop in these cars will do structural damage to the body and the driveline. Don’t be tempted to stay on the throttle when it hops.

^ this is a fact!
wheel hop will blow your diff up. Happened to me.

Also, the e30 has a bitch ass diff mount.
mine totally ripped in half so i had to weld in a new frame, basically, with the e36 diff cover.
hiiiighhly recommend you do this. The mcouples also have this problem.



E30 diff mount by jet jones, on Flickr
Diff mount by jet jones, on Flickr

[euro2fast4u]

Wheel hop in these cars will do structural damage to the body and the driveline. Don’t be tempted to stay on the throttle when it hops.

^ this is a fact!
wheel hop will blow your diff up. Happened to me.

Also, the e30 has a bitch ass diff mount.
mine totally ripped in half so i had to weld in a new frame, basically, with the e36 diff cover.
hiiiighhly recommend you do this. The mcouples also have this problem.

Wow thank you both, really good to know.

Plug gaps down to .017 or even lower will work are are sometimes necessary but will not be beneficial unless your getting spark blowout at your current boost level.

My last setup the flex sensor would randomly jump up and down which would throw the fueling way off. The flex percentage would jump from 85 to 0% momentarily which would make the motor go way lean as the ECU was reducing the pulse width according to the sensor readings. After I figured out what was going on I unplugged the sensor and only ever plugged it in to check the content when I filled the tank and then I would unplug it again an enter the percentage into the fallback percentage setting in tuner studio. I never did figure out why it did that, the same sensor and plug on my current setup never has an issue, but I did rewire the power and ground when I changed ecu's

I will try and set the gap smaller. im 99% sure its spark blow out.

Yea its so odd for the flex fuel sensor i assume its wiring too but cant pinpoint it. I have it adding timing too but thats of course effecting the run. I leave it plugged in but am adjusting the fallback to keep it sorta stable. it atleast works for fuel, timing not yet.

BTW boost controller just arrived. 4 days from china amazing.

I also welded that AN fitting to the fuel pressure regulator nipple now need to find a FPR that will work with that bad contraption as well as when i weld fittings on the ends.
(your better off just welding the fuel rail then the method mentioned above.)

[Robocop]

^ i don't understand what you're doing to the fpr.
have pictures?

[euro2fast4u]

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aluminum strap is temp, only bar stock i had in stock.


If anyone is in the area, next weekend ill be at the Winchester autox and summit point track cross. Swing by and say hello.

[euro2fast4u]

Well tonight I started the install of the ac compressor. It's going to be very tight on the drivers side. Did some research and electric is going to be challenging and rear mounted is going to be challenging.

Doing some preliminary thoughts I'm concerned that the aluminum alt bracket is going to break given that I'm doubling the mass it will need to hold.

Btw does anyone have any ac parts? This is mostly for fitup and hose ends for new lines.

[euro2fast4u]

30 dollar amazon fogs showed up.

I thought they would have been shattered.

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Already dropped one and it just bounced haha. O they did come with the gaskets too. Regardless these will be perfect for when i rock cones at speed.

If any one has an extra passenger brake duct ill be happy to trade an extra drivers side.

[euro2fast4u]

Made it through two hard days of racing. Track cross was pretty awesome and enjoyed the difficulties of running on a track.

Only a few items got broken, shift knob broke in half on the second to last run. I had a paper towel and wrapped in electrical tape to prevent it from cutting me. Exhaust clamp got bashed loading the car saturday night. I need to redo the exhaust and put it higher, as well as tie in the wg line. And i lost the hood strut clip, i found the pin just about to wiggle out.

Regardless not half bad for the first time out in a year and a half. Tires are below their abilities now, but plenty of tread left, so going to keep burning them off .

Also going to try to change things up and post good photos with a good camera. I already see the benefits.

Local club 35/86, summit point track cross Novice group 7/25

[euro2fast4u]

Been slowly getting back into the car again after a break from it. Currently the front end has some base coat on it, lights are assembled and ready for installation. Need to swing by the paint store to get some more paint and clear hopefully next week. Then setup the paint booth, sand the parts and spray.

As for changes to the setup, i am all out of spark. So i will need to go COP or Wasted spark. I may in a last ditch effort change to two ignition coils wired together.

I've settled on Injector Dynamics 1300x 60.14.14.6 injectors as im pretty much out of fuel at 21lbs and e85.

I plan on upgrading to a Haltech 2500 with premium harness to support COP as well as the future builds M52 -> M54 -> N54 or N55.

I'm also experiencing wheel hop in the rain. I cant seem to get rid of it and everything i have search for said replace the bushing but mine are still new hard poly mounts. installed 3 years ago. Any insight?

Also challenged an 09 911 Turbo, beat it pretty badly. Went home and looked up the specs and realized im 1000lbs lighter then them..... Who would have known.

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[Robocop]

damn big baller those injectors are 1,300