Turbo e30 street car

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Damn, I am liking that filter housing.

Would be cool to put a fuel temp sensor in.

You're in luck! ID offers the Bosch motorsport Temp and Pressure sensor combo as an option for their filter system.

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[5mall5nail5]

You're in luck! ID offers the Bosch motorsport Temp and Pressure sensor combo as an option for their filter system.

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Yep - funny enough Bosch Motorsport temp sensor is the same scale as stock M50 coolant temp, I believe. At least the one I monitor oil temp (in the drain plug) is. Already have an AEM pressure sensor in the regulator, but good to know.

[euro2fast4u]

Cool engine removal vid. How did you go about making the radiator support removable?

Welded L on the frame with a bolt going through the core and 4 bolts , 2 on each side for the upper mounts. Then cut/drilled old welds.

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You're in luck! ID offers the Bosch motorsport Temp and Pressure sensor combo as an option for their filter system.

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Yup I got the fuel pressure sensor / temp sensor block attachment. Working on fuel lines right now, going to try a compression fitting on the oem rail, but i did also order some basic fuel rail. I need to upgrade the fuel lines from oem to 5/8" per summits website :/


Any recommendations on drive shafts? Also looking at those bleeder valves for the clutch.

[euro2fast4u]

-10 fuel line is incoming. New rail is incoming and injectors came back ok. Seems like an ignition coil issue. Really odd for a coil to stop working below boost but begin working again once its in boost.

[euro2fast4u]

Strated running the lines and found a rusted brake line that broke. Good thing to catch, but decided to also snag a line lock and slipper clutch valve.

[E30s50dude]

Strated running the lines and found a rusted brake line that broke. Good thing to catch, but decided to also snag a line lock and slipper clutch valve.

How far back did you did you go on the car for the new fuel hardlines?

[euro2fast4u]

How far back did you did you go on the car for the new fuel hardlines?

Good question, im actually stopping both supply and return at the exterior fuel pump location. Tying back into the OEM system, however, i should go to the tank, but i really need to drop the tank to do that correctly.

Snagged a line lock since i found a rusted brake line that started leaking and a manual bias valve for rear brake control.

I also snagged a slipper clutch valve to help with launches and reduce the potential for breakage. No idea how im gonna fit all of this on the drivers side fender area.

[euro2fast4u]

Welp, it finally happened. M20 let go at 3600 rpms and 70kpa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdSPcpcjZVM

We are starting on the M50 now, whats the go to bullet proof plan for a stock m50? is it the same as the m20? ARP's, stock gasket and oring block?

[Nutzy]

Poor M20, RIP.

Love the sharing a beer with the old donk!

What let go?

[E30s50dude]

Welp, it finally happened. M20 let go at 3600 rpms and 70kpa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdSPcpcjZVM

We are starting on the M50 now, whats the go to bullet proof plan for a stock m50? is it the same as the m20? ARP's, stock gasket and oring block?

I would go with JE or CES cutring HG with copper spacer with ARP studs.

[euro2fast4u]

I would go with JE or CES cutring HG with copper spacer with ARP studs.

Is the only reason to drop compression ratio? Whats the breaking point of the m50?

Poor M20, RIP.

Love the sharing a beer with the old donk!

What let go?

Since i reused the bearings and connecting rod bolts as i was about to buy a house. Cylinder one connecting rod bolt stretched and broke taking out the block and oil pump. One of the bearings was also on its way out and one rod was bent all sperate cylinders. Pistons looked perfect honestly not one detonation mark. Bearings looked worn but not much worse then when i reused them.

208381720_631514427826678_8167282543282418124_n.jpg


Also looks like CES has a lock down on HG's.
https://cesmotorsport.com/ols/produc...000-combo-deal

This seems like the right direction.

In other news, new seats should be shipping soon and the haltech may arrive by the end of the week along with my second child

[E30s50dude]

lowers compression ratio and I believe around 600hp is the limit on factory piston and rods but I haven't pushed a stock set up that high personally I went forged piston and rods full e85 to start on my personal set up.

[Nutzy]

Is the only reason to drop compression ratio? Whats the breaking point of the m50?

Gunni once told me that I shouldn't have dropped the 10.5:1 compression of the M50 due to "the limited amount of airflow" from my S256. He means of course that the compressor is small, not the 65mm exducer turbine. Considering that I was running on E85, he said I should have taken compression to 11:1, not take it down to 8.5:1 with custom JE's.

He has a point.

I think Perry got over 600WHP out of his M50 and beat on it a lot. If you can map your boost in the ECU, I'd say keep max boost out of the midrange if you're going with stock rods. In any case, ramping boost helps a ton with traction and makes the car feel kind of like a crazy NA motor. ;-)

<snip>may arrive by the end of the week along with my second child

Hey! Congrats!

[E30s50dude]

Agreed on the compression bump, but when dealing with factory compression I couldn't recommend pushing the m50 that far without trying it myself first. Since I have a 3.0L I felt comfortable dropping the compression to 9:1 since I plan to have to extra displacement to make up the lag for my 6466 with .96 A/R. With that being said I have an m52 on stand by going with 11:1 pistons to see the power gain differences with the 2.8 and my current 3.0 bottom end on my current turbo set up with full e85 on both. If the high compression gains are noticeable all around with a really good power band giving my turbo size that would be my go to compression but we'll see in the future and i'll make a thread on the process in the near future.

[WhiteBear]

Also looks like CES has a lock down on HG's.
https://cesmotorsport.com/ols/produc...000-combo-deal

If you have not already ordered I believe all the Cutring gaskets sold by the various vendors are all the same and don't quote me on this but I think they are manufactured by Athena.

[euro2fast4u]

lowers compression ratio and I believe around 600hp is the limit on factory piston and rods but I haven't pushed a stock set up that high personally I went forged piston and rods full e85 to start on my personal set up.

Do i need that copper spacer? was told the ratio would only be dropped to 9.9:1 when i spoke to CES.

Gunni once told me that I shouldn't have dropped the 10.5:1 compression of the M50 due to "the limited amount of airflow" from my S256. He means of course that the compressor is small, not the 65mm exducer turbine. Considering that I was running on E85, he said I should have taken compression to 11:1, not take it down to 8.5:1 with custom JE's.

He has a point.

I think Perry got over 600WHP out of his M50 and beat on it a lot. If you can map your boost in the ECU, I'd say keep max boost out of the midrange if you're going with stock rods. In any case, ramping boost helps a ton with traction and makes the car feel kind of like a crazy NA motor. ;-)
Hey! Congrats!

Thank you! Ah i need to talk to Gunni, dont think i told him it blew up yet.

If you have not already ordered I believe all the Cutring gaskets sold by the various vendors are all the same and don't quote me on this but I think they are manufactured by Athena.

Any links having a hard time beyound CES.

[E30s50dude]

[QUOTE=euro2fast4u;30704802]Do i need that copper spacer? was told the ratio would only be dropped to 9.9:1 when i spoke to CES.

I believe if you add the copper spacer it would drop the compression around 8:5:1 but I would check with others here or CES to confirm. If you go with low compression pistons then all you would need is just the cutring head gasket no spacer.

Here's a link you can try I only know the Boost monkey and CES that sells these gaskets as far as I'm aware I would try calling around and looking for one in your bore spec which should be 84mm if it hasn't been board over already.

https://boostmonkey.com/products/boo...50-m52-s50-s52

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Having done the built motor thing which was a complete shit show, I couldn't see the purpose of building a motor for less than 600whp.

If you're looking to make 700, 800+ sure, find a good/competent machinist and build a motor if you want but these motors are anything but weak and in my experience you would be hard pressed to find a stock motor that will not do 100hp per cylinder without an issue.

[Nutzy]

Having done the built motor thing which was a complete shit show, I couldn't see the purpose of building a motor for less than 600whp.

If you're looking to make 700, 800+ sure, find a good/competent machinist and build a motor if you want but these motors are anything but weak and in my experience you would be hard pressed to find a stock motor that will not do 100hp per cylinder without an issue.

Is it worthy to discuss the pro's and con's of a built motor in the context of a bit of track work? Stock motor may be ok for the occasional pull here and there, but how does it stack up with 10 minutes of beating?

Stock can take a right proper flogging, but at least open the ring end gaps up.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Is it worthy to discuss the pro's and con's of a built motor in the context of a bit of track work? Stock motor may be ok for the occasional pull here and there, but how does it stack up with 10 minutes of beating?

Stock can take a right proper flogging, but at least open the ring end gaps up.

I personally to not see what difference track work means to a motor vs say repeated/extended 5th gear highway pulls. It's not the motor that is the issue on the track, but rather peoples lack of work/prep on the cooling circuit(s) in my opinion. If you have too high oil, water and exhaust temps and cannot keep them under control in high load high RPM conditions then sure a built motor will give you some overhead in allowing abuse for a while unit it lets go, but you're still doing damage somewhere. Best thing is that you don't allow that to happen in the first place.

At the end of the day everyone should really understand their setup and their goals. Don't push your setup beyond it's ideal efficiency, run the proper fuel, get a proper tune and implement the proper safeguards (possible when not running a stock ECU - like knock, EGT, fuel pressure, oil pressure). I can't say that I wouldn't be surprised once my $250 stock compression M52 just gives up one day to some sort of mishap that is out of my control but man is it nice to have a motor that doesn't consume any oil, doesn't have any blow by, or other strange issues (noises, issues, etc) vs. the built motor where I wasn't even able to turn it up in 6 years just throwing a bunch of money at it changing all kinds of parts.

Besides, ~550whp in these cars is really a TON of fun for a street car.

[Nutzy]

All fair comments, and it is amazing what a stock motor will take if all aspects of the tuning are solid.

FWIW, I went built because I *thought* that is what it would need to be, I went built because I wanted headroom. Yes, a stock M50 will take 600whp, but how much more than that? If I was at, say, 550whp, do I really have only 50HP left before nudging the danger zone where rods are bent? Right now I have Pauter rods and JE pistons with tons of headroom over my 550'ish crank HP. Yeah, the motor is partially pulled down just now because I wanted to remove the oil jets, and then when I looked at the rods the Glyco bearings were eating shit (due to a production fault ~2012). I had two MLS that leaked, but the cut-ring has been solid AF. In retrospect, I'd just use studs and O-ring the block. I chalk this up to learning, not as a fault of a built motor. It doesn't burn oil, doesn't suffer from blowby or have any other issues other than the low oil pressure at idle (an M50 thing from what I can tell). This is being sorted with no oil jets and an M52 pump with custom 4140 shaft with flange drive.

That said, if the motor puked tomorrow, I'd put in a stock unit and run it. ;-)

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Yes, a stock M50 will take 600whp, but how much more than that? If I was at, say, 550whp, do I really have only 50HP left before nudging the danger zone where rods are bent?

For sure no one actually knows if/when a stock component will let go, that said with some careful management of the power (not so important with a bigger turbo) I'd say it's pretty well documented 600whp is still ok for most applications on a stock bottom end. For sure with little room for error at that level though, that's where a set of forged internals can certainly safe your ass.

Sorry to hear about your motor issues, hopefully you get that all sorted.

[euro2fast4u]

This is exactly why i chased the m20 "stock" goal and now the m50. Ive seen all to many people throw money at rods and piston and blow up 500 miles later with 6k in debt now. WHY? Regardless, we are scanning the engine bay, engine and components to work on some new age design for the e30. Also, im gun ho on providing a steel oil pan for these cars, i cant grapsh the 400 bucks for a stupid oil pan. That project should be done in about 2 months once i procure a welder. IDK if anyone would be interested but going to provide one to the community.

Talked to Gunni, going to do the arps, cut ring gasket No spacer. Decided since the m20 failed due to a connecting rod bolt i would too upgrade those too. Rings have been checked and are well gapped. Dont rememebr the number but we checked all of them and they were over the recommended gap. E85 will be the main fuel but will run pump occasionally.

I ran the m20 on the track, as noted above i focused mainly on oil and coolant temps. The engine never had issues with those intact. Never got to measure diff and trans temp but thats on the to do list now.

Second son was born last week so been having fun with that!

[Nutzy]

Also, im gun ho on providing a steel oil pan for these cars, i cant grapsh the 400 bucks for a stupid oil pan. That project should be done in about 2 months once i procure a welder. IDK if anyone would be interested but going to provide one to the community.

Excellent! Now, make it shallower so it doesn't hang so low, and make the pan wider!

My CNC machinist buddy of some 38 years said he'd scan my sump and make a billet CNC unit. Sounds great, but I'd like him to get my 4140 flanged M50 oil pump drive done first!

[euro2fast4u]

M50 e34 oil pan has been scanned and hope to work on the design in the upcoming weeks. Think I have a few videos on Instagram. Unfortunately as I was scanning I found a crack in it. Working through ebay seller now. Also revshift has yet to mail my order 3 weeks now....