I looked at mine and I'm still using the oem wiring pass through.
What do you guys recommend for MAT retarding table? I think my intercooler is now at its limits.
Also, reattempted the 60 to 130.
AIM has it at 8.34 seconds in 1,241.6 feet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNFy...el=euro2fast4u
Also decided to try my hand at tinting again.
120248058_372216957146096_4692672113241533149_n.jpg
Last edited by euro2fast4u; 09-29-2020 at 10:00 PM.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
(let me know if this photo is viewable for you above)
Trying the rolling two step/anti lag to see if i can get the turbo to spool quicker for the 60-130 times. Im peaking at around 15.9psi, then it drops to 13.8psi. The odd thing with this is its not consistent enough. If i trying 8 times, i may get on two 20 psi. The best actual test was from 17 down to 15psi.
Any thoughts, pull more timing? im at around -10. Wondering if i should go to -30 or more to get it more consistent.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
-10 is not enough
Well just had enough time to figure out the aim datalogger. Fuel pressure sensor is now in and working. next up trans temp and diff temp.
Dyno day tomorrow posts your guess, winner gets 5 bucks paypal ready hahaha. We did switch to winter blend so at around e79. We will max out the injectors and see what she ends up. Closest with out going over wins.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
It was a little bit less then I wanted but I also couldnt add any more boost. Got about 40 pulls in and learned a lot. Good time!
Welp i finally got a break to at least give you guys some updates.
Attachment 679816
I originally tried to walk up timing at a steady state but that quickly became to challenging with the dyno. It was way older then expected and had some limitations, as mentioned i also ran into heat issues quickly. Regardless, i ended up doing a pull checking fuel and timing and upping the boost. We got to a point where i could not add any more boost. After the pull i was noticing i was only at about 19psi. However i was very very rich. I ended up pulling fuel and gaining power. We got to a point where i couldn't add any more timing and fuel looked good, but still could not add more boost.
On the way home i hit boost cut at 26psi.
A few days later i reviewed the logs and they were hitting the target perfectly. I re-reviewed the log on the way home and noticed i was way too lean. There is also some issue in tuner studios log viewer that i couldn't determine. (TS log viewer said 19, Megalog viewer is saying 25 from the dyno pulls).
What i am able to determine is a few things:
-I had one large boost leak, one medium boost leak and one small boost leak. I did not notice these the last time i checked. (I blame this for part of the fueling issues / boost control issues)
-I'm questioning the exhaust leak i had, i finally found it and is getting repaired. My spool up was 1000rpms higher then on the street. (I think the dyno loading was off)
-We originally thought my intercooler was too small due to the IAT (I am ordering pressure and temp sensors to monitor the turbo inlet and turbo discharge temp and pressure. IAT were still high, but if we are off the compressor efficiency map, this would explain the high IATs. I am not doubting its at its limit but more curious now how the leaks play a roll. I have a custom 3" in the works that should work well regardless of the issue)
-I was able to tune the MAT graph to not pull so much timing (This picked up 50hp on the top end)
-Knock sensor and street tuning appear to be pretty close on the ignition timing.
-Dyno did not do a rpm hook up, but instead a multiplier, i did not notice until the end of the day that it was wrong. Off by about 900rpms up top (i dont know how much i trust the graphs now with it or power numbers. Last pull was with accurate value)
-Fuel Pump or filter appears to be clogged or dying. (going to pull the 255 and oem filter and replace with an e85 compatible filter only)
-Fuel pressure has drastically changed since the road. See video
-I pulled the air filter and gained 100hp up top (I'm partially thinking this is bc of the way the dyno was loading and boost leaks i had)
-Fuel adjustment gained another 50hp.
-The peak power one was all of the things combined and the boost controller shut off plus cooling down for 15 minutes.
-Rolling Anti Lag works really well at -30 degrees and now roasts the r888 235's in second from 40roll, 3rd still hooks up well at 55mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sAO...el=euro2fast4u
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6ha...el=euro2fast4u
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J70U...el=euro2fast4u
What needs to be reverified
-Timing and fuel, i believe the dyno was not loading the car correctly or comparably to what I am seeing on the street. I will now confidently use my knock sensor to find knock and pull 1-2 degrees from that point where knock is determined.
-Boost leak and exhaust leak could had put the turbo out of its efficiency range causing the high IAT issue. (New clamps and leaks are 50% fixed, waiting on hardware to arrive to reinstall the manifold)
-Injectors weren't maxed but the pressure drop in the fuel rail pressure is concerning. I am waiting on AiM connectors to show up to log fuel pressure. (We will rely on the pressure sensor to record better data and re-evaluate)
-Once pressure and temp sensors are installed, ill install the larger 4" filter to see the pressure drop difference.
-After these are taken care of I have located another dyno that should be newer and more accurate.
I think loading the engine comparably to the street was something i wish i knew. I now need to retune that upper part to make sure i have enough fuel. I believe i could have adjusted the ramp rate but was not sure how to check to make sure it was working correctly.
I have to take the print off's that they gave me and then convert to text and then into execl. So the data is going to take some time. No spot for the thumb drive :/
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Finally pulled the trigger on Injectors. 1350x Injector Dynamics that should also be perfect for the m50.
Not sure if i shared this, here is the video from the dyno of fuel pressure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J70U5U6cAls&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=eu ro2fast4u
Regardless, this should help us push the m20 to 30psi? lol i bet it wont make it.
Currently wrapping the dash in suede again and have been very busy with work. Also the AiM dash is getting relocated to the console and my GPS sensor isn't working now :/.
Do you think I should drop the fuel pressure back to 43.5?
I also came to the conclusion that due to where my wg and air filter are was causing the large drop in power. I want to add a mini dump pipe for the wg to get the exhaust to move backwards for the dyno.
Last edited by euro2fast4u; 12-08-2020 at 12:33 PM.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
with injectors of that size there will be no reason to run high rail pressures - bring it down to 45 or 50 psi that will give your pump(s) more overhead as well
Update time, been completing a lot of various bs tasks that i have been putting off for some time. The biggest is the wiring in the glove box.
131369462_682028852496324_950310446447716359_n.jpg
137526819_881572082579349_2742145198572602791_n.jpg
Next up was the wastegate piping, I realized during the dyno time that part of the reason for the huge power gain from air filter to no air filter was due to the location of the air filer and wg dump. The engine was taking too much exhaust gas causing the power drop and huge rich issues.
136753257_700802640799759_810968719677489158_n.jpg
136044477_213804963689104_379544929248565646_n.jpg
I stopped right before the flex due to not being able to get the vband on the down pipe and be able to remove the downpipe. Eventually ill go to a shop to get the last 10" finished and tied in back to the main straight pipe after the vband.
Next up was the Dash. I decided to finally rewrap it. Wish i snagged a friend to help as it didnt come out 100% perfect. Its probably B status.
137685147_187396576458827_6439554822122857171_n.jpg
Last edited by euro2fast4u; 01-23-2021 at 10:42 PM.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
I also finally mounted the AiM in its permanent position
Attachment 684379
Found the issue with my GPS. a bad joint at the connector. Sent out back to AiM and repaired and sent back.
Attachment 684380
Attachment 684381
Quick fix to all the anti lags ive been doing over the last few months :/
Attachment 684378
- - - Updated - - -
I was going to install the injectors this weekend. Adapters i ordered took a month to arrive and where wrong :/ another few days.
Been working hard on getting the cold start tune. Right now im down to two start attempts. Im confirming if my last change is down to one start. During initial start while its code the engine rpm is low, around 680 -750. I dont run an IAC, but i am thinking of running a valve that opens during warm up only. Its now in the 20's and dont want to have the car outside at the moment.
Next was the catch can. Ive been running to atmosphere for some time but think i had dripping oil from this at times. I am running from the valve cover using the oem hose, to a -10 to the catch can. After the catch can it goes to a Tee where its filtered and then a small line runs to pre-turbo. So far im collecting condensate again which is good.
Attachment 684382
Last edited by euro2fast4u; 01-23-2021 at 10:54 PM.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
mounted the lip, and finished the fogs and brake ducts
Been working on the tuning for the ID's
147151521_237213084563032_2986896878393694047_n.jpg
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
And which oil do you prefer for turbo e30?
Valvoline VR1 (visible on the photo) is good?
Last edited by GregSimon; 02-14-2021 at 10:14 AM.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Installing the ID Fuel Filter in the upcoming weeks.
http://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/
What have you guys done in the past to go from the OEM fuel rail to AN fittings?
Also one week before this weekends race we had a bad oil pan gasket and rear main seal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdelZTyoQHA
Was nuts getting it back together before the race. Too much stress for what it was.
Regardless car ran well no leaks except when i filled up with e85 and ran like garbage. Sending the injectors out to get cleaned as i think leaving the e85 in it for 3 months was too much. Also think i had a coil that decided to die.....
Lastly, what do you guys use for drive shafts? i just noticed i twisted mine right at the CSB spline area. It will break soon im sure.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Cool engine removal vid. How did you go about making the radiator support removable?
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