your all dumping 1300 to 1400 bucks on them as well?
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
i'm running the snek eaters.
for such a large injector they run, to me, fa-nominal.
even better then the ebay semen dickas 80# coming from an even crappyer green ford injectors.
so all i know is crap.
ultra cheap. no complains at all highly recommend for the price. whatever that's worth 2 u, from me.
1500 vs 800 by jet jones, on Flickr
Last edited by Robocop; 01-15-2020 at 09:49 PM.
Yep, it's the only Injectors I sell and recommend/use on my own cars.
Likely so, that said I just recently found out Snake Eater injectors are Chinese copies. I'm glad they run well for you, but I wouldn't touch any copy made in China with a 10 ft. pole.
they're flowed tested before they ship though.
or i guess ur talking about they can just burn out out of nowhere. i can see that point though.
It's not just about peak flow, I'm sure they open and hose down some fuel as expected. I don't know about their reliability so I can't comment one way or the other but besides the quality, being produced by Bosch Motorsport (exclusively, anyone else making this claim is full of shit, no one can buy the same injector as the 1050, 1300, 1700 and 2600, their days of modifying off-the-shelf Bosch products are long gone) but it's what happens at low pulse-widths that makes the difference. If you're just going to run around at full jam all the time then you probably won't notice much difference. But with the larger injectors, in order to get the motor to idle, especially on gasoline, they have to be open for such a ridiculously short period of time that even a little bit of mismatch between the injectors or lack of linearity will make the car idle and run at low load like shit and/or run rich. And you'll chase your tail trying to tune it out, or do what most people do and accept it as the price you have to pay to have OMG RACEKOR. Except you don't. You can have a V6 with 2600 cc/min injectors (in reality 3000+ at the more typical pressures people run) and idle like stock.
Sure they're flow tested - and they might even have decent patterns, etc. But the fact that these injectors are literally Chinese knock off copies/replicas - they're not big name (Siemens, Bosch, Delphi, etc.) units that are modified like many others still use/do - that is my issue with them.
That said I literally have ZERO personal experience with Snake Eater injectors - but others who have are extremely critical about their build quality, and so on.
I do hope that you don't have any issues with them though!
Lets note if these injectors kill an m20, we are all in a better place . If the cause for the death of the m20 is the injectors, it would make sense to replace with ID's.
I think ill use these for the year which allows me to get the haltech up and running on this before the m52 swap.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
m20 is the new m10
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Keep positive all!
M20 at 20lbs is still kicking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX3gE0y_QzA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxTeCkV9VOk
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
M20 may be on its way out, as rpm and boost rises my oil pressure decreases. Not sure if this is the way its been forever, or just started recently.
Regardless picked up an m50 the other week and already tore it down. Going to check ring gap, resurface head and throw studs and MLS on it. Goal is to get that engine up and running on the stand prior to installing in the e30.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
104629020_302092647614796_1934088130976633480_n.jpg103541646_3035878186450932_3130265096995687409_n.jpg103259857_2205684336233777_7699333484327315261_n.jpg
so got the 235's mounted on the 949's and got some cheap drag wheels for the radials. Excited for the season to start!
Also been working on the 60 to 130 / Video / Editing / tuning / blowing off boost pipes.
I now have solid flex fuel sensor, EBC and launch control working.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjZbOb0eoX8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb5mq6BR_OM
My best 60 to 130 so far is 11.9 seconds. Slow and definetly room for improvement. This was also on pump gas and no flat foot shifting. Excited to try it now with e85 and flat foot shifting.
BTW, ffs saves about 1 second in spool time to match the same level of boost before shift. Also does not dip as low.
104412203_977603996023802_3393416211792238629_n.png
104869366_3673221586038055_6301077974890592415_n.png
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
First TrackCross of the year!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iig7Ew9BI3w
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Back on e85 all out of injectors. :/ go away corona go away!
https://youtu.be/NrZN7_TZYfE
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
You're lucky, getting to 'trackCross' during corona time. I spent $10000 this year getting ready for our autoX to have them cancel the entire year.
That track cross looks fun... enjoy!
WOT
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
I want to share some info that I could not search on the forums or google but may be useful to someone else running out of injector.
M20 Turbo, 600cc injectors with e85. Stock fuel rail and regulator. 450lph in tank stock position feeding a 255lph in line stock position. Wiring has been replaced and dedicated relays for each.
At 19lbs I was around 126% duty cycle. We know that's not true as it cant go above 100%. My tune was rich so I was not too concerned. I was looking for another solution beyond injectors. Why I'm an engineer and like pushing the limits of everything instead of throwing large bucks at some 1300ccs.
I decided to replace the oem fuel regulator with a an fitting and external fpr. I upped my fuel pressure until the injectors could not idle stably. This was around 80psig with vacuum line connected. Aeromotive regulator with 6an ptfe line from the fuel rail to the regulator then all stock lines from there.
Again, was trying to avoid replacing all of the lines and complete 2 to 3k fuel system upgrade.
Today I retuned it with the adjusted pressure. I took about 30% of the fuel out initially then went on tuning.
Results today dropped the duty cycle from 100% (126٪) down to 78% . This now allows me to up the boost, today peak was around 22 and 86% duty cycle so more room still to chase that 25psi 6 year goal.
Edit: not certain but this adjusts the effective flow rate from 600 to 830cc.
TLDR: Up base fuel pressure if enough pump is available to assist in restricted fuel injectors.
Flow does fall off however that's where the two pumps are working in unison. Just like compounding turbos.
M20 value is low, search back in this thread my bearings are shot and I reused them......... it's an m20 with 400k on it.
what do people do when they max out 2200cc? They run more pressure and pump. I search for a few months and could not find issues of pumps dieing due to this, they draw more current and ride back on their curve, flow rate decreases. I'm not maxing the pumps out.
if it ain't broke don't fix it, unless it is. maybe it is, but it's working somehow.
Is it possible it works fine around town and during a short 3rd or 4th gear highway pull, but that a long pull like a top speed run, where the gearing and aero would load up the motor more and require a little more fuel — maybe more than is available?
Incorrect - pumps in series does very little for flow. Series pumps is to hold pressure. Parallel pumps is for flow.
Again no, they add more injectors or go to a larger injector. If they're out of pump then they change/add pump as well. They go hand in hand.what do people do when they max out 2200cc? They run more pressure and pump.
All pumps have a limit - flow DECREASES with pressure, so you running high pressure already puts you to a disadvantage.I search for a few months and could not find issues of pumps dieing due to this, they draw more current and ride back on their curve, flow rate decreases. I'm not maxing the pumps out.
If you're just trying to see if what you're doing works - of course it works until it doesn't. But your post made it seems like people should just turn up the FP if their injectors are too small - but as I said it's good until it's not and the right way to do it is to buy properly sized injectors.
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