M5 question..."best" year? All input appreciated

[FastGpa]

I'm looking for an M5 for a weekend/fun car. I've always felt that the last year of a model is the one to get, as it usually has previous year's issues resolved. Is this also true for the E39 M5? Is there a year to avoid?

TIA

[auaq]

Yep, pretty much the last years of M5's made will be better than the first few years of M5. I would say mostly the 2002-2003 M5's have all of their issues resolved. The 1999-2001 may still have some like oil consumption, Vanos start up rattle, rod bearings, etc.

[XAlt]

Rod bearings are more or less the same across the years, the people who drive 2017 M5s today tend to be the cause of those problems. Blame can also be traced to the 7k redline.

2000 M5 = deal

Noisy VANOS units and a quart of oil every change shouldn't put people off.

[jclausen]

2002-2003

[dannyzabolotny]

2002-2003 are the best years in terms of having all the facelift goodies and engine updates, but due to that there's a pretty steep premium on those years. If you have plenty of money then those years will be fine for you, but if you're trying to get a good deal then the 2000 model year is the best.

[amancuso]

When I was looking for mine, it had to be an 02 or 03. I wound up finding mine for sale at a BMW dealer in Richmond, VA. It's a loaded 2003 sport model and had 137,000 miles when I picked it up in April. Paid 13K for it out the door. It needed some cosmetic help on the interior because the trim was replaced by the PO, so I rectified that. Mechanically it needed valve cover gaskets, thermostat, 2 breather hoses, and an evaporative emissions valve. No regrets, I love this thing. It's currently sitting at 143,700 miles since we took it on a 2200 mile road trip without incident.

[StephenVA]

AS mentioned by one and all, The last years are the most desirable models to buy from a "best of" vision. The real hunt is finding ones that are treated as loving family members not basic transportation now on their fourth and final owners. Most long term OE owners are at the magic 10 Years+ mark so some are moving on. There are low mileage one out there as are high mileage units that were properly cared for throughout their life. Just use common sense. If it is "Cheap" there is something WRONG waiting for the unsuspecting buyer to fall into.

Right car, right price = happy seller and owner.

[geargrinder]

It's a loaded 2003 sport model

Did the dealer charge you extra for it being a 'sport model'?

[geargrinder]

2000 M5 = deal

Yeah. Unless you are a "price is no object unlimited budget" type, there's something to be said for buying the "something short of the last year(s)" thing for value, as long as you can find a really clean car.

This seems to have eased up a little but but for instance for a 540, the 2003 cars were SO HYPED simply because the M-sport package was slightly improved that year, that for a long time every d-bag n00ber who decided he had to have a 540 decided he had to have a 2003. Honestly even I went in with this mindset before I knew the cars. Because of that higher demand, 2003 cars called an unreasonable premium for what was - M-sports aside - exactly the same car in 2001 and 2002, which were the 'sweet spot' for those cars in terms of having a few years of facelift changes under their belts but not being ridiculously overpriced purely because of being the last model year.

[amancuso]

Did the dealer charge you extra for it being a 'sport model'?

Lol no. It wasn't even mentioned. What I mean is the interior. Not luxury.


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[NordmanMg]

I'm looking for an M5 for a weekend/fun car. I've always felt that the last year of a model is the one to get, as it usually has previous year's issues resolved. Is this also true for the E39 M5? Is there a year to avoid?

TIA

They are all good if treated right by previous owner/s

[Leonator134]

I bought a 2000 M5 on a whim and it has been nothing short of excellent. No breakdowns (jinx), no bs, no outrageously expensive repairs. Barely consumes any oil too.

If I could have paid the same money for a facelift (2001+) I would have, but only to have saved me the time/money of updating my 2000 to facelift.

Don't let a 2000 put you off.

Elitists gonna elite

- - - Updated - - -

edit: I got mine with stacks and stacks of records.. Thats absolutely a consideration.

MY2000 with records > MY2003 without

[Franktea]

2002 - 2003 corrected vanos noise issues

[Das Leg]

Mine is a 2000 aswell, and the only fly in the ointment is the start-up rattle. Mine was off the road for 3 years and when I started driving it the oil consuption was un-real, like half a quart the first 100 miles. But it has settled down dramatically since, I've now driven the car a little over 1200 miles and apart from that initial half a quart it has consumed another half, that's it. As Leonator said, service records and reciepts are paramount, mine has a tall stack of things done since 2014 to the tune of over 10 grand...

But having said that I'd like a 01-03 just for the vanos and the facelift stuff, but if I want one that was sold new here then it's pink-spotted with shimmering mane unicorn territory since just 11 '02's and 3 '03's were sold new in Sweden...

[NordmanMg]

It was so long ago then all, or almost all <2001 cars had all vanos stuff upgraded already. I don't know if I ever seen any 2000 MY car with previous vanos style plates

[pu911]

I'm curious I own a 2000 M5 - bunch of Dinan mods, excellent condition, 100 % original paint, 21k miles, what is something like that worth in todays market. It's a spectacular car.
Phil

[NordmanMg]

I don't know, prices are all over the place, 25-30-35-40-45? Whatever will someone pay you for it I guess, low mileage 00 is still a good one. Only thing - vanos is still have to be modified

[Das Leg]

I don't know, prices are all over the place, 25-30-35-40-45? Whatever will someone pay you for it I guess, low mileage 00 is still a good one. Only thing - vanos is still have to be modified

Modified how?

Mine is built in february of 2000 and a buddy of mine has a 12/99 build date. The plate over the solenoids on the driver sie bank looks different on mine than it does on his, but if I understand this correctly it's not the solenoids that cause the rattle, it's the lack of oil pressure to the gears on start up that do that, so thats a totally un-related issue. Or am I wrong?