E39 540i SC pistone ring fail

[dovlet]

Hi everybody.

Our SC has oil mist intake from crankcase. It is connectod to SC. Few days i had a lot of oil coming from that. Today i disconnected that oil mist hose from SC and put it under back site of car. Hole on SC pluged.

Then i went to autoban to full load my car. After finishing my drive i checked engine and noticed oil on engine and on back site of my car. Looks like iron orings on one of pistone broken and all power was coming down to crankcase and pushed oil.20170820_235130-1280x720.jpg

[jicaino]

Aw man, so sorry!

[philly98540]

Do a compression test and then borescope any low ones. Let's see inside. Sorry your motor is toast.

[dovlet]

Do a compression test and then borescope any low ones. Let's see inside. Sorry your motor is toast.

Soon will start with maintenance and check all pistons. I think I know what happen. Few days ago I had a drive against e55 2006 SC. When we finished I noted white smoke from exhaust. Then checked engine and noted that my water injector plugged out. No water injection on intake, no cool air in chamber. One more engine.

[1999 540i m]

Could be broken oil separator, the one behind the timing cover, compression test first

[dovlet]

Could be broken oil separator, the one behind the timing cover, compression test first

Checked already. TU engine is showing 6 bar all. When non tu is showing 9-10 bar. If you have an idea how to check right way compression will appreciate.

[1999 540i m]

Checked already. TU engine is showing 6 bar all. When non tu is showing 9-10 bar. If you have an idea how to check right way compression will appreciate.

6 bar = about 87 psi, that engine is fried, time to change it out

[dovlet]

6 bar = about 87 psi, that engine is fried, time to change it out

Compression almost all the same on tu engines. This is second engine I expirienced on 6 bar. By the way can you please advise a steps how should I check compression. My method is next:
Plug to chamber my compression pressure gauge and run engine 1-2 sec.

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Today will try to measure compression one more time.

[geargrinder]

Could be broken oil separator, the one behind the timing cover

That's not going to account for the amount of crankcase pressure piling up here. The only thing I can think of that could account for that that is OSV related, is if its whole but the end is plugged up. But that'd be a freak condition.

For the record the OSV doesn't actually 'break' itself, its just the little thin cheap PVC elbow on the top of it that fails. If that was available as an aftermarket part nobody would ever have to buy an OSV again.

[Uturn540]

[QUOTE=dovlet;29806377]Compression almost all the same on tu engines. This is second engine I expirienced on 6 bar. By the way can you please advise a steps how should I check compression. My method is next:
Plug to chamber my compression pressure gauge and run engine 1-2 sec.

Make sure the throttle is open when cranking. On the TU engine you will need to remove the intake tube and hold the throttle open by hand. You will need two people unless you have a remote starter. Then try again after adding 30ml of oil to the cylinder. If it the compression goes up more than 1 bar then the rings are probably bad. If the compression does not go up then there is another issue.

[geargrinder]

On the TU engine you will need to remove the intake tube and hold the throttle open by hand. You will need two people unless you have a remote starter.

As a solo guy you can prop it open but be aware doing this for an extended period may very well put the DME in failsafe for a little while. It will try to test the TB and if it can't move it it will freak out.

[dovlet]

Ok, decided to bore new holes (remove alusil & nikosil cylinders) and put there new forged cylinder sleeves. The only proble, is which type of pistons orings to use? I have no info about new cylinders heat range?

[JimLev]

As a solo guy you can prop it open but be aware doing this for an extended period may very well put the DME in failsafe for a little while. It will try to test the TB and if it can't move it it will freak out.

Just leave the tu throttle body plug connected and unbolt it from the intake manifold.

[jicaino]

Just leave the tu throttle body plug connected and unbolt it from the intake manifold.

+1 or, if you have a spare, move the plug to the spare and force open the real one.

[geargrinder]

Just leave the tu throttle body plug connected and unbolt it from the intake manifold.

+1 or, if you have a spare, move the plug to the spare and force open the real one.

Yep. Either of those is gute.

[geargrinder]

Ok, decided to bore new holes (remove alusil & nikosil cylinders) and put there new forged cylinder sleeves. The only proble, is which type of pistons orings to use? I have no info about new cylinders heat range?

Oh boy.

That really isn't advised.

First of all you don't have nikasil, you have alusil. They stopped nikasil back with the E34.

Beyond that, people have had mixed luck with sleeving these blocks. There was a guy around here w/ a sleeved M62TU that turned out to be a disaster, burned oil, could never get it to seal up, retains a load more heat than the factory block etc. etc.

There's hardly any room for a sleeve in there, and apparently the Alusil material is tricky to work with. And this is not a "use any engine shop that can sleeve a block" operation. I'd only use a shop with all the expensive gear and some experience sleeving Alusil blocks. There's like one or two guys in all of the US that do this properly I think. Not sure if you really have access to somebody of that caliber?

There's an M62 engine thread around here where guys have been talking about this stuff, honestly I'd suggest you just go with honing the Alusil if you bore it, but you might check in over there and into the M5 S62 forced induction threads where guys have used sleeves.

[JimLev]

IIRC there is only 5-6mm between the bores.
I'd find a used block.

[jicaino]

Oh boy.

That really isn't advised.

First of all you don't have nikasil, you have alusil. They stopped nikasil back with the E34.

Beyond that, people have had mixed luck with sleeving these blocks. There was a guy around here w/ a sleeved M62TU that turned out to be a disaster, burned oil, could never get it to seal up, retains a load more heat than the factory block etc. etc.

There's hardly any room for a sleeve in there, and apparently the Alusil material is tricky to work with. And this is not a "use any engine shop that can sleeve a block" operation. I'd only use a shop with all the expensive gear and some experience sleeving Alusil blocks. There's like one or two guys in all of the US that do this properly I think. Not sure if you really have access to somebody of that caliber?

There's an M62 engine thread around here where guys have been talking about this stuff, honestly I'd suggest you just go with honing the Alusil if you bore it, but you might check in over there and into the M5 S62 forced induction threads where guys have used sleeves.

IIRC there is only 5-6mm between the bores.
I'd find a used block.

We've assembled a friend's M62tu with a sleeve recently. It was a ductile iron sleeve on the 7th cyl. Meat between bores is 7.6mm it's really tricky. The sleeve has 1.2mm wall thickness. The shop that did the machining say they could do up to 2mm hipereuctectic hardened sleeves for turbo applications and they would stand behind their job.

[dovlet]

Deamn, it means i should stop and save my money. Appreciate if someone can share link.

[dovlet]

20170823_195721-1280x720.jpg20170823_195053-1280x720.jpg20170823_193027-1280x720.jpg20170823_195037-1280x720.jpg20170823_193045-1280x720.jpg
Some photos. Planing to change block and all hoses, rubbers etc. Also, new engine oil radiator and egt will be installed.

[dovlet]

Oh boy.

That really isn't advised.

First of all you don't have nikasil, you have alusil. They stopped nikasil back with the E34.

Beyond that, people have had mixed luck with sleeving these blocks. There was a guy around here w/ a sleeved M62TU that turned out to be a disaster, burned oil, could never get it to seal up, retains a load more heat than the factory block etc. etc.

There's hardly any room for a sleeve in there, and apparently the Alusil material is tricky to work with. And this is not a "use any engine shop that can sleeve a block" operation. I'd only use a shop with all the expensive gear and some experience sleeving Alusil blocks. There's like one or two guys in all of the US that do this properly I think. Not sure if you really have access to somebody of that caliber?

There's an M62 engine thread around here where guys have been talking about this stuff, honestly I'd suggest you just go with honing the Alusil if you bore it, but you might check in over there and into the M5 S62 forced induction threads where guys have used sleeves.

As machine shop said, they planing to install cast/crud iron sleeves. But, after your suggestions I will stop my activities on this direction. Will try to find another block.

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Also, may some of you suggest about next. Currently I have m62b44tu engine with SC and tuning from TTFS. I found m62b46 engine. What do you think about next:?

1. If I will install only block 4.6l should I then change my tuning file again?
2. If I will install block and cylinder headers from 4.6l should I change my tuning file as well?

[dovlet]

Deamn, my engine is a live. Nothing happened with cylinders. Only 4 pistons from driver site and one in other were cracked. Lacky me. 20170824_182031-768x768.jpg20170824_175313-768x768.jpg20170824_182026-768x768.jpg20170824_175337-768x768.jpg20170824_182052-768x768.jpg

Also planing to change chain and hoses.

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The most interesting thing is why my 5 pistons broken but block withno damages?

[philly98540]

Pre detonation most likely.

[dovlet]

Pre detonation most likely.

It would never happen if my water injector was not unpluged. I think that was a real reasson why my pistons were not melt. Perhaps there is other reasson... any way i am happy that i have a live block.

[dovlet]

My live block cylinders has become elepsied. About 0.01mm. Any way currently have no any choise. Will rebuild my engine with current block, lets see what will be happen.