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Thread: E36 driver window stops 3" from the top

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Anacortes,WA
    Posts
    1,300
    My Cars
    E34 535i; E36 325is

    E36 driver window stops 3" from the top

    Window goes up and down normally, until stopping 3" from the top. The microswitch on the door jamb appears OK.

    I'll try swapping Left and Right window switches, to isolate the switch as possible culprit.

    Is this a common problem? Got suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Murrieta, CA
    Posts
    9,561
    My Cars
    '94 325iC, '08 328i, E93
    If the window goes up, stops and drops a little bit, then it thinks it has run into an obstruction. If true, when you open and close the door, the window does not move. If false, then the door thinks that it is at the top, and it will drop when the door is opened, and raise again when the door is closed.

    If the car thinks the window is at the top, then you need to reprogram it so it is really at the top. Put the window down, then use the Manual Up mode to raise the window fully to the top without stopping. Then put the window down and use the Auto Up mode to raise the window. If it goes all of the way up, you are done. If the window comes to a physical stop before it gets to the top, then you have to take the door panel off and see why.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Anacortes,WA
    Posts
    1,300
    My Cars
    E34 535i; E36 325is
    Pretty sure it's some mechanical obstruction, as the sliders are good, C channel rails look good, works are properly lubricated, regulator appears good with no bends or warpage, motor works fine, gear teeth look good.

    On YouTube is a video: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fR5jqcoB0p2Aig

    This video at 6:36 says a grommet between the motor and gear assy. can go bad, causing such a partial travel malfunction just like I'm trying to fix. The part (BMW part no. 51338163351, costs $1.32+shipping at AutohausAZ) and per this YT video source is the second most likely window regulator failure point, after the sliders.

    BTW, I previously replaced the nylon sliders with aftermarket units from an auto parts store, but found such aftermarket sliders are worthless because they do not properly fit--too fat by a smidgen. When you replace sliders, get replacements from a BMW dealer or OEM supplier, and then check their fit in the slider rails to assure smooth operation before proceeding further with window re-installation. Otherwise, the too-fat/too tight aftermarket sliders will barely fit the guide rails and cause excess friction, jam, and/or soon burn out your window motor.
    Last edited by Dash01; 08-21-2017 at 06:12 PM.

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