My "New" 1983 BMW 633CSI

[Sean2005]

Finally went and got it yesterday evening. I ended up paying $1500. It has 92k original miles. The car drives good but seems to vibrate above 50mph. I understand that it's a 34 year old car but I want to get it to where I feel confident with it on the interstate. I plan on getting a complete inspection at a shop that specializes in older BMWs. I do believe that it has a vacuum leak because it hesitates in 1st gear. All of the windows and sunroof work and the interior is about 8/10. This will be my 1st vehicle restoration so any advice is appreciated.

[FernandoBunster]

Congratulations on your beauty. Welcome and we're here to help. Remember the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

[beanerbmw]

it looks great. congrats.

[83 528e]

Awesome looking car, Love the color. First thing I would do is replace all the vacuum lines and fuel lines.

[bmw6fan]

Nice looking 633 & good deal too. There should be another manifold support on the other side of the intake boot. Intake leak could cause bad idle also.

[Sean2005]

Thanks everyone below is some work that the PO did according to maintenance receipts.

Crank position sensor
ICV
Water temp sensor
ECU
MAF
Plugs
Distributor cap
Plug wires
Injectors
Fuel pumps
New fuel filter
New fuel pressure regulator
New starter 3yrs old

As I was driving today. The light between the turn signal indicators was flashing. What does that mean?

[bmw6fan]

Could be a lamp out. Do you have any lights on the check panel to the left of your instrument cluster?

[Sean2005]

Those seem to stay on too. I've already checked the coolant and oil.

[bmw6fan]

Coolant has a sensor in reservoir tank,oil has one on bottom of oil pan. Brake light means you have a light not working. Clear those up and that check light in the cluster will probably clear up also.

[Sean2005]

Will it go off once the break light is replaced?

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Coolant has a sensor in reservoir tank,oil has one on bottom of oil pan. Brake light means you have a light not working. Clear those up and that check light in the cluster will probably clear up also.

What do I need to do to fix the sensors in the reservoir tank and oil pan?

[bmw6fan]

Screenshot_2016-05-15-22-11-24.png
Get the wiring diagram for your car to troubleshoot. Could be just a bad connection or broken wire. Unplug the wires from the coolant switch should clear that one. Brake lights could be lamp or socket. Oil light a little more complicated, disconnect may clear that one also. Probably all have to clear before the check flashing light will stop.

[Sean2005]

Sounds good. Will try your recommendations ASAP. I appreciate your help.

[bmw6fan]

I check under my hood before I drive my car always so if those sensors were bad they would be low on my priority list. Old Chevy's never had those!!! Clear the lights and let it go

[tvjake2]

This looks like a great deal. I love those seats. Hopefully it's not going to be too difficult to bring it back to good running condition.

If you want to spruce up some of the lettering on the shift panel (or other places) get a paint pen (in white, the look like a small pen type marker) from an art store and dab carefully to restore the lettering.

[1986series6]

1983 633CSi electrical troubleshooting

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

[Sean2005]

This looks like a great deal. I love those seats. Hopefully it's not going to be too difficult to bring it back to good running condition.

If you want to spruce up some of the lettering on the shift panel (or other places) get a paint pen (in white, the look like a small pen type marker) from an art store and dab carefully to restore the lettering.

Thanks. I will try the paint pen. I'm going to take it to the shop so I can get a complete inspection. Then go down the line and tackle each issue. Based on the receipts I got from the PO, he easily spent about $2k on the car last year getting it up to speed. Today I tried to fix the passenger seat belt buckle but it's too far gone so I'm going to have to buy a replacement.

I was having trouble removing the tail lights. I removed the white plastic screws from inside the trunk. I was thinking that would loosen up the tail light compartment but it didn't and I didn't want to crack them. What's the easiest way to remove the compartments in order to replace bulbs?

[bmw6fan]

Thanks. I will try the paint pen. I'm going to take it to the shop so I can get a complete inspection. Then go down the line and tackle each issue. Based on the receipts I got from the PO, he easily spent about $2k on the car last year getting it up to speed. Today I tried to fix the passenger seat belt buckle but it's too far gone so I'm going to have to buy a replacement.

I was having trouble removing the tail lights. I removed the white plastic screws from inside the trunk. I was thinking that would loosen up the tail light compartment but it didn't and I didn't want to crack them. What's the easiest way to remove the compartments in order to replace bulbs?

That's how you do it. I wouldn't push on the studs. Pull the lens from the outside, work it gently and be careful of the gasket. It's just stuck.

[DesktopDave]

Looks great! Seems to have been very well maintained; looks like a real bargain too. The interior looks like it's new! Has it been re-upholstered?

I wouldn't pull on the turn signal section either. I usually just remove the white plastic nuts, wait a few hours, then gently try to persuade them out. I've had the best luck with the inner lower corner at the reverse lights. The rubber seal gets sticky, and the rim of the plastic signal lens sticks in the little groove. Also be very careful with the chrome outer surrounds, good sets of those parts are getting to be very rare.

Did you get to RealOEM or BMWFans to check out the diagrams there? They've been very helpful to me. Here's the rear turn signal for a 3/83 production E24:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=63_0175
That little seal, #2, is the one causing the problem. #3 is the chromed trim ring that you should be very careful with.

[Sean2005]

Thanks! I'll try to replace them again this week when I get some extra time. The PO re-upholstered the seats back in 2011. It seems like the car went through a few spells of not being driven years at a time. That could be a good and bad thing.

[Sean2005]

The metal piece under this wire was brittle and accidentally snapped. Is this a cause for concern?

[bmw6fan]

Yes, that is the coolant temperature switch. It closes at 45°c-113°f and let's the engine idle down to proper rpm. Around 800 if all else is good. You can test it by jumpering those wires together once the engine is started. It should idle down.

[Sean2005]

Ok. How should I go about fixing it?

[bmw6fan]

You'll have to find a new one. Just remember it's just an open/close switch at 45°c, the one with the yellow insulator. I got one at advanced Auto parts about 2 years ago but I don't see it now. Maybe have to search Google.

[Shipper]

Lovely looking car. Congratulations. At $1.5k that is a real bargain.

[Sean2005]

Thanks. I'll get on that ASAP.

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You'll have to find a new one. Just remember it's just an open/close switch at 45°c, the one with the yellow insulator. I got one at advanced Auto parts about 2 years ago but I don't see it now. Maybe have to search Google.

Thanks for the info. I'll get on that ASAP!