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Thread: Need quick answer-traveling-coolant light

  1. #1
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    Need quick answer-traveling-coolant light

    Yesterday I experienced some surges and bogs while traveling in the ungodly, Africa hot city of Tallahassee(98 degrees and equal humidity). This morning on my way to work the coolant light came on and went off after about five seconds. Should I be worried? Add coolant?

    I have a 100 mile interstate drive home this afternoon. Should I pick up a bottle of coolant just to be safe?

    Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
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    Did you check the coolant level when the engine was cold? Yes, I'd carry a container of coolant just to be safe. The low coolant level switch could be going bad.

  3. #3
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    The car was in motion and already warmed up. It's parked now and I will check it in a couple of hours when it cools down. Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Half a gallon low. I just had it in for an oil change last week and the car is garaged. I would have noticed a leak. Obviously someone did not check my fluids.

  5. #5
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    Half a gallon is critically low on an E46. Thats roughly 25% of the entire system capacity. Good catch.

  6. #6
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    Thanks Dhurley. Ultimately, this was my fault because I should have checked the fluids myself before leaving town. It seems my mechanic's son was so busy adding air filters to pad my oil change bill, that he forgot to check the levels. But at the end of the day, I should be much more aware and familiar with checking and maintaining these basic things. I feel pretty dumb right about now.

    I've been watching the 50's Kid videos all evening and I'm about to start doing some of my own maintenance. Since there was green sh*# in my expansion tank, a coolant flush is in order ASAP. Spark plugs after that... SMDH, that's what I get for trusting other people and not knowing any better. There's no excuse for my ignorance.

    Picking up jack stands, a torque wrench, and a torx bit set today. I've got basic sockets, wrenches and screw drivers covered. I'd like to have an impact driver but it's not in the budget this month. Are there any other common tools I should put on the list?

  7. #7
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    Why on earth would you need an impact driver unless you get into heavy-duty repair?! If you do get one, put it in the reverse position and then break off the switch lever! Otherwise, just get yourself a breaker bar for the few occasions where you'd need it.

    The crud you found in the expansion tank - could you describe it more precisely? Dark, hard chunks, or sludge? How big? How much? Floating or on the bottom? Oily? The concern would be that there is a bunch of this stuff stuck in the cooling tubes in the radiator.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackson42 View Post
    Why on earth would you need an impact driver unless you get into heavy-duty repair?! If you do get one, put it in the reverse position and then break off the switch lever! Otherwise, just get yourself a breaker bar for the few occasions where you'd need it.

    The crud you found in the expansion tank - could you describe it more precisely? Dark, hard chunks, or sludge? How big? How much? Floating or on the bottom? Oily? The concern would be that there is a bunch of this stuff stuck in the cooling tubes in the radiator.
    I thought I would need the impact driver to remove some of the larger bolts down the line. I don't have the hand strength to break bigger things loose, so I thought it would help. (Plus they sound really cool! LOL). If I can get away with a breaker bar, then I am already covered there.

    As for the green crap in the expansion tank, it was just green antifreeze and no visible chunks. I think a thorough flush should get the majority of it out. Since the car came out of warranty I have only used one shop for my maintenance. I was under the impression they knew no to add that crap to my car. Big mistake.

  9. #9
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    If it's just green antifreeze and there aren't chunks in it, then a simple drain and refill ought to do it, although a flush with clear water is never a bad idea. Many on the BMW boards will tell you that they run plain old green antifreeze and never have a problem with it. I think that as long as one does the maintenance and keeps an eye on the coolant level, it probably doesn't matter much one way or the other, although I do run blue Pentofrost in all my cars (it's the BMW coolant without the dealer price, although it still ain't cheap). Watch out - once you start asking questions about coolant, the responses you'll get will take on the proportions of a holy war - coolant seems to be like religion for BMW enthusiasts. These engines are all-aluminum so they aren't prone to corrosion the way an engine with an iron block can be, but their cooling systems do have their weaknesses.

  10. #10
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    Awesome! Thanks!

  11. #11
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    Whatever coolant you end up using, be sure and mix it with distilled water and not from the tap.

  12. #12
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    IMG_2248.jpgAh So, Sensi. The Grasshopper has been reading the forums. Thank you for all of your time and advice.

  13. #13
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    What's the big push for distilled water all about?

    Maybe a noob question I guess, but I've always used spring water without issue ��*♂️

    I'm getting ready for a flush to blue and a thermostat replacement on my M3. I have the dreaded runs way to hot with AC on issue :/.
    2000 740i - 149K - Dville Monsoon rear deck speaker upgrade, GROM audio Bluetooth
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MN2K740i View Post
    What's the big push for distilled water all about?

    Maybe a noob question I guess, but I've always used spring water without issue ��*♂️

    I'm getting ready for a flush to blue and a thermostat replacement on my M3. I have the dreaded runs way to hot with AC on issue :/.

    The minerals in tap water can cause corrosion.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhurley34 View Post
    The minerals in tap water can cause corrosion.
    Makes sense. Kinda why I don't use my water at home. Well water. Delicious but don't think it's good for a engine
    2000 740i - 149K - Dville Monsoon rear deck speaker upgrade, GROM audio Bluetooth
    1998 528i - 204K - GROM audio Bluetooth setup, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, BSW Stage One speaker kit, Facelift Xenon's with Angel Eyes
    2003 M3 - 210K - BMW Euro Cross Drilled Rotors

  16. #16
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    Aha, another subject of religious fervor: minerals in tap water. Well "it depends" on your tap water. Many water utilities are required by federal law to publish data annually about their water quality and how/whether it conforms to the EPA requirements. OTOH, data in the hands of those not intimate with "how much is too much" (and I can't tell you) is asking for trouble.

    STAY AWAY FROM IMPACT DRIVERS unless you are very sure what you're getting into. I have been working on several dozen of my own bimmers since 1980, give or take a few, and almost never had to resort to such. If you're concerned about arm strength for loosening bolts, use leverage in the form of a longer socket driver. Some mission-critical fasteners are supplied with some form of loc-tite (brake caliper bolts come to mind) but these can usually be loosened with proper leverage. For me, that's an 18" x 1/2" drive breaker bar and my own not inconsiderable mass on the other end (for me, about 400 foot-pounds, I'm a big guy). There are very few fasteners that won't yield to this level of torque.

    You can also learn about what happens when you shear off a bolt head, but it ain't fun. In fact, it may very well ruin your day. There are DIN specs as to how much torque each bolt size and strength grade can handle. BMW designs will not exceed these values, though time and rust may raise the loosening torque by quite a bit. As you get into the car, you'll realize just by looking, how much torque you should expect to apply to any given fastener.
    Charlie

    Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.

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    Last edited by Eaglesail; 08-30-2017 at 05:29 PM.

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