Ok, 1993 325is. I started to notice my cars rough ideling after few weeks of owning it . I checked around to see if there was any leaks and notice slits in the intake boot and (icv to intake boot) hose and replaced both, cleaned my throttle body, replaced the tb gasket. Still had rough ideling. I was driving it with the rough idle for a few weeks until i noticed it would stall or nearly stall out (would sometimes have to give it gas till it would hold a somewhat decent idle)when id start it and was concerned so I then looked more into it and came to the conclusion I needed to clean or replace my fuel injectors and possibly fuel filter. I bought re manufactured bosch fuel injectors and had them put in . and now the car idles and starts up perrrfect. I then noticed it felt a little fluttery,car shakes a bit,and is a bit louder(although i have a hole in muffler at the moment). I then took it around the block and noticed how slow and chuggish it felt. I then looked up why all this could be happening and then came to another conclusion that now it could be my coil packs. now this is odd to me because it drove fine with the old injectors but now drives like sh1t with the new ones (but starts and idles perfect without the revs bouncing up and down) now if I do all of a sudden need to replace one or multiple coil packs and it will be fine then I understand but being 17, paying,and doing this on my own is a pain and money pit I really dont want to be investing in sh1t that wont solve my problem .
Last edited by skrist325; 08-19-2017 at 02:58 AM. Reason: misspelling
Welcome to the Forum!
The best way for a BMW to not be a money pit is proper diagnostic's. So here's a few tips to help with that:
1) Check engine light or SES, is it on? Have you attempted to pull codes?
a) Do you own a laptop with a USB or Serial port connector?
b) If so search for INPA and a 20 pin diagnostic head connector
2) Vacuum leaks
a) Visual inspections, while this will find the gross leaks you still need to do b.
b) Smoke test, most decent euro shops will have one and in 15-20 minutes will find the leaks
3) Buy a Bentley, this is where you will find all the values you need for testing.
Good luck, and have fun with your new toy!
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
+1 to Darin's advice, above. You need to get a smoke test to find intake leaks.
The injectors in BMWs are color-coded. Were the injectors you installed the same color as the ones that came out?
There are several things which might cause the behavior your car is now exhibiting ("slow and chuggish", but perfect idle). These items include a clogged catalytic convertor, inadequate fuel pressure, bad mass airflow or other sensor, and yes, even maybe, just maybe, bad plugs or coils, or coils/plugs that are swimming in oil. OR.....the WRONG injectors. I would not recommend throwing coils at it just yet.
On the other hand, a set of NGK BKR6EK sparkplugs are pretty cheap, and changing them would allow you to see whether your plugs and coils are swimming, too. (If so, you need to change the valve cover gasket and rubber grommets).
Were the injectors the same color? Where did you buy them? Can you read the part number off of the injectors you bought, and post it here?
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
The injectors I got have the code 0280150415 from UREMCO. Theyre light green tops instead of dark green tops but I thought all bosch injectors looked different from oem.
I did just bring the car in for a new valve cover gasket and replaced all spark plugs because they were covered in oil before. Im starting to think possibly it could be my cats because I heard they could get somewhat clogged from an exhaust leak and I couldn't tell you how long that the previous owner left it like that. I am a 93' and no longer have to take emissions where I am. Previous owner being in Indiana. I checked my mass air flow before and even asked the mechanic I had replace my valve cover gasket check it before and he said it was Ok. If I do some how got completely wrong Injectors I would consider sending my old ones in to get cleaned and checked. Although the new ones do make it idle and start up better.
Well, the good news is, you've got the correct injectors for your car:
https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/au...n?partId=62429
(You'll see the part number you listed on the side of the injector in the picture)
Bosch was the original equipment supplier for these injectors, for BMW.
"Checking" your MAF is not realistically possible without a computer to watch live data. However, try this experiment : Unplug the MAF, and try to drive the car. Be aware that it will not want to idle properly....but IF it will run, what we want to know is "Does the car suddenly become faster?
Yes, you will get a "Check Engine" light when you do this test. On an older car like yours, the light will usually go away after you shut off the car and reconnect the sensor.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
A quick stomp test may help, until you have the right diagnostic tools.
Here is a stomp test refresher:
1) Turn ignition to Run (not start)
2) Wait for the EML light to go out.. <1 sec
Then.. Do this 5 times (In less than 5 seconds):
3) Press the accelerator all the way to the kick down button for about 1/4 second and release
If you did it right, CEL will blink once, then blink out your code(s). After the code(s) it will pause and repeat the codes.
Even if you have no codes, it should still blink out 1 4 4 4 . If you can't get it, turn the key back off for a few seconds and try again.
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