Who's made one? I've been trying to find a quick little DIY to throw one in the missile and not having any luck.
Thanks!
It's a tube welded to a tube with a pin to hold the button down, sounds pretty simple
The cars are down at the shop and I'm not sure what size tube to use. Was hoping to grab some on the way in tomorrow morning.
nerp makes them, maybe hit up his IG to see if hes got some specs on them, or ask him.
If he sells them, he's not going to give away the specs...
idk who nerp is haha
I can check in the morning what size DOM I used to slip right over the factory handle (if that's what you're asking for?). I think it was 1", but my memory is sketchy at best..
Yeah! That would be rad, thank you!
I'm at the shop with my cars, the diameter for an e36 handle is 0.815" at its largest spot
The stuff I used was 1"O.D. DOM with right close to .100" wall, so it makes perfect sense with what Mikestokman reports.
Thanks guys!
I bought mine off Welcht- it's fantastic, other than the fact that my cables are stretched and everything about my parking brake doesn't really work! I cold take some pictures if you'd like. I raelly want to get my brake functioning again, but I'm not sure it's really worth the time.
for E46. First go at it and it's fantastic.
Engage brake - remove oem handle - slide this over - align thru hole in extension with thru hole in parking brake - drop screw thru aligned holes. Screw works as a pin to prevent rotation and slip. Cap on end engages the parking brake release button.
Stainless.
5.5in L, OD 1.05 ID .824
Hole for M6 screw, center 3.1 from back end.
17.5in L, OD .5625 ID .4985
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That's nice, but I don't think straight is very ideal.
Im all about Nerps, good product. shouldn't be too hard to make with the measurement
Price depending. I might want one soon...
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I took an old mountain bike handle bar with a rise in it, chopped it towards the end of the rise on one side, bored out the hole so it slipped over handbrake snugly. Then I drilled a hole in the top, tapped it and put a small set screw in to keep it in place.
The drop in the MTB bar wasn't enough to clear the center console though so I loosened the handbrake a bit and put a self tapper through the side of the handbrake so that it wouldn't go down as far. Also removed the button and spring and extended the locker to a new button so I could still park with it.
Really loved this setup and how it followed the interior lines perfectly, but I destroyed my trailing arm, rotor, handbrake cable, and handbrake shoes for the third time just from ripping the handbrake in the dry lol. At that point I was over it and went hydro.
Also the bars I used are 25 inch AirAlloy LowRiser by RaceFace but anything should do.
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From experience working on different vehicles the cable handbrake is always going to be a pain in the ass. Even if it's drum breaks. The most work i put in was a FWD Citroen, where we went all out starting....identical length cables, modifying the bracket so it pulls the cables at exact same milisecond time, adjusting the shoes to millimeter and binning the auto adjusters that fuck up the work once you brake in reverse, extending the lever different sizes to find what works best, going on JewTube and typing flyoff handbrake to see what we need to weld for ours, and after all this hard work never to get both wheels to lock at the same time like you can with hydraulic. Then realizing there is no way to make it user friendly so the button can be used for parking the regular way. Finally accepting that cable operated brakes only work on the bottom pair shoes while the top pair is never engaged (unless activated by the drum piston). So overall what I'm trying to tell you is no matter what car it is......go hydraulic and just get the right master cylinder for your need. As long as the OEM holds leave it for vehicle inspection and don't touch it.
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