quick ?....m vs non m

[jrkoupe]

say you wanted to build up a track day car...

what was a non m3 without that was std on an M?

lets not include engine, brakes or suspension( sprgs, shocks,bars)....Ill change all that

[weedshoes]

say you wanted to build up a track day car...

what was a non m3 without that was std on an M?

lets not include engine, brakes or suspension( sprgs, shocks,bars)....Ill change all that

LSD, rear subframe reinforcement, beefier half shafts and trailing arms, bigger wheel bearings, different front spindles, 6 bolt driveshaft on early cars, clutch hydraulics are slightly different, all the cosmetic stuff.

[jrkoupe]

cool........exactly what I needed to know....

some impt stuff there.

[pbonsalb]

You can add the reinforcements. You can buy the other stuff like the LSD rear and stronger axles and front spindle that fit M3 brakes (but equally good E46 330i front brakes bolt onto E36 non-M spindles). I'd look for a good E36 chassis to build and build it. I would not pay a big premium for an M since you will be building the car anyway. Just build it a little more if it is a non-M.

[ben4bama]

You'll want the M front cross member that gives more caster for better handling

[Gordo0208]

You can add the reinforcements. You can buy the other stuff like the LSD rear and stronger axles and front spindle that fit M3 brakes (but equally good E46 330i front brakes bolt onto E36 non-M spindles). I'd look for a good E36 chassis to build and build it. I would not pay a big premium for an M since you will be building the car anyway. Just build it a little more if it is a non-M.

THIS.


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[jrkoupe]

great info...

Im just trying to see how much it could all cost to do this, and how much cheaper the non M would need to be bought for it all to make sense.

[jrkoupe]

You'll want the M front cross member that gives more caster for better handling

can u elaborate?..

the front subframe?

[ben4bama]

Go to realoem and look at the front axle diagram and the support is what I'm referring to will need the CAs also

[bluptgm3]

You'll want the M front cross member that gives more caster for better handling

It is the combination of Spindle, Forward Lower Control Arm, centered FLCA Bushings. and offset aft/outboard Bearing Plates/Guide Supports that changes the front end geometry/handling of the 1996+M3.

You can add the 1995M3 offset FLCA Bushings and 1995M3 Bearing Plates/Guide Supports to a 318/323/325/328 and have the same geometry as the 1995M3 (be aware that the 318/323/325/328 spring "hat" may contact the Strut Tower - use the 1995M3 Spring "hat"). The 1995M3 FLCA has a solid outer ball joint, the 318/323/325/328 FLCA has a rubber isolated outer ball joint. The E30 M3 FLCAs are the same geometry with a solid outer ball joint (and smaller inner ball joint.)


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[RRSperry]

When you say track day car, do you mean you drive it there and drive home? or Trailering it to the track? I ask because, well, because...

If I were building a track toy, I wouldn't be driving it to and from. If you have to drive the car home, you will never, ever, be as fast as you could be. You just can't take some of the risks you need to to actually go fast. Sometimes you have to be willing to wad the car up...

Then, since it's a toy. No need for pretty much anything except for a cage and safety stuff. Soooo, I'd start with a 325, rip it apart, weld in the necessary stuff, suspension stuff, and toss in a S54. It's a toy after all, and toys are expensive.

If you are going to drive it to and back, get a M3. Rework the suspension. and have fun...

[JEC928]

Required Reading:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...or-your-E36-M3

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...n-Overhaul-FAQ

http://jj100d.blogspot.com/2011/03/e...ike-legos.html



My .00002 cents:
Start with an M.
Finding good deals on M parts is a hassle, then putting them on is a hassle.
Source: experience.

[TostitoBandito]

I agree, start with an M3. You can probably find a beat up M3 for not a ton more than a 3 series, and then you don't need to worry about a lot of the M part acquisition and swapping. There's a surprising number of beat up high mileage M3's that you can typically get for around for $3k-ish (or less).

[propcar]

I would buy an already built race car/track car with a good history. You'll save a ton of money.

example, something like this.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-STU-GTS-spec3

search racecar sale websites (racecarjunk.com?) for used pre built cars. Find a good one.

[RRSperry]

I would buy an already built race car/track car with a good history. You'll save a ton of money.

example, something like this.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-STU-GTS-spec3

search racecar sale websites (racecarjunk.com?) for used pre built cars. Find a good one.

That.... it's way cheaper

[jjwilson89]

I would buy an already built race car/track car with a good history. You'll save a ton of money.

example, something like this.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-STU-GTS-spec3

search racecar sale websites (racecarjunk.com?) for used pre built cars. Find a good one.

This...all day every day.

If I'd known when buying my "daily" 2 years ago that I'd end up racing it, I'd have saved a ton of money...!

[GG///M3]

can u elaborate?..

the front subframe?

I'll sell you my avus 95 m3....