Yeah, as said above, that spring in the tensioner is only there to help keep the chain from going slack when the engine if off and during initial cranking. I bet it does just about nothing once the oil pressure comes up. Not sure the numbers, but I bet the chain tensioner force due the oil pressure is at least 10 or 20 times more than the force that that spring provides. Someone could calc is up pretty easy. Anyway, BMW revised that spring at some point as some slapping was likely reported during start ups and that was their fix. Does that initial slap on some cars cause the guides to fail sooner? Maybe, as once the guide plastic parts get all old and brittle from age, mileage, heat, etc, etc. the plastic could crack from those slaps. Who knows. IIRC, the check valve should keep the oil in the tensioner when the engine is off and the spring is more of a patch thing if there is some leakage in the check when the car sits and the cams are in a spot where they want to rotate due to the valve springs pushing. Is that newer designed spring enough to keep that chain tight on a engine with a bad check valve? I'm not sure. I've seen some report start up slap even after a new spring is put in. I would think changing an old spring, that is already the new design, will likely do nothing as the spring should keep its properties for the life of the engine as it never goes past yield during use and should barely see much travel if the check is good and the tensioner seal does not leak. The tensioner does not move much in that case.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
Is there any consensus on price? I'm in Canada and I've been quoted between $2K and $4.5K
Also, has anyone on the forum done the timing chain job in Canada?
If you can get the guides replace for $2K that’s a smoking deal you shouldn’t pass up.
thanks for the response, Jim. I was quoted 2K for not just guides but chains as well. I just have no sense if this is at all reasonable.
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thanks for the response, Jim. I was quoted 2K for not just guides but chains as well. I just have no sense if this is at all reasonable.
His info says he has a 530i, it has guides and chains too.
I've also got a '02 540i with the M62TU, I thought I had updated my bio but it's not visible.
The 540 has 145K km (~90K miles) and I don't hear anything yet but wanted to pre-empt the inevitable. Finding it really difficult to find any testimonials from people in Toronto.
So, I am not from Toronto, but my advice is do NOT attempt the timing chain guides job simply as a "preventative maintenance". Do, replace the tensioner or its internal spring -that will take care of the rattling noise on cold startups-. Otherwise, wait until you see chunks of broken plastic guides in the lower oil pan to do the timing chain job.
At 90 K miles, your guides have still plenty of life time left.
FYI, I have 199K miles, and never touched those original guides; still going, knock on wood..!!
Last edited by Chedley; 08-26-2021 at 06:24 PM.
Well my view point is waiting until you find chunks of the guides in the oil pan is too late.
If you have another car, then fine wait until you either think it’s mileage is high enough to warrant doing the guides or just before you think they are failing. Either way do them before they leave you stranded.
$2K to get the guides done on a 540 is dirt cheap. Hope this place has done them before and knows how to time the engine.
Chedley, we should start a pool on when your guides are going to fail.
I just pulled the guide rails on my '97 m62. 146k, the last 80 I put on it, Mobil 1, 4 to 6000 mile changes. Very clean inside the covers, very little wear on the plastic, one vertical plastic piece broken, could have happened during disassembly. Plastic was brittle. Jesus bolt was little problem after fabricating a suitable crank holder, worked from under the car (sell your soul for a lift) with floor jack handle for the cheater. Waiting for parts to reassemble, in the meantime cleaning everything. A question: Am I safe assuming that the non vanos cams are not sensitive to sprocket alignment? The flywheel is locked, the cams are locked, so I should be able to remove chains and sprockets with no worries?
I'm with JimLev, waiting for symptoms before doing the guides is risky or possibly catastrophic. @ 146,000 mi I would think it's time to pull the trigger.
The original spring doesn't pushes the guides to anywhere near the point the oil pressure does. The logic reason beind using a longer spring it's to not alow a chain slap. If your spring leaves a lot of room, the slap of the chain against the guide will be a lot harder than it is if you have less free play, and consequently less room for the chain to accelerate and slap the guide harder. As you very wisely point out, wear isn't the main concern, plastic cracking is a bigger concern, and for that, the increased pressure of a longer spring does a better job.
You can add about 3/8" of lenght over the original uncompressed old style spring and still the oil pressure will put more pressure on that tensioner, sometimes isn't about reinventing the wheel, but to make it rounder. BMW didn't engineer the tensioner for maximizing guides life, but for just dong a fair enough job during warranty.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Thanks Jim, maybe you can help me understand. I thought the cam timing was fixed in the m62. If not, what adjusts the timing, there is no vanos solenoid?
There are slots on the cam gears that are used to set the timing. Once set correctly it does not move.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
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