I am going to be installing a 210mm diff in my m3 soon.
I need a driveshaft. I refuse to put a DSS driveshaft in my car as my car is 100% streetable right now and doesn't have any weird noises, excessive NVH, etc.
Research seems to show that the factory driveshafts are twisting on the front half. Could I not just take my front half of my driveshaft to a local shop and have them cut construct the front half out of some thicker wall or stronger tubing?
That or would there be a problem with having them cut off the front and rear flanges and having them make a custom one piece driveshaft that retained the OE flex disc?
I want a solution that doesn't make me hate my life every time I drive my car , I don't see what is wrong with the above options, maybe you guys can inform me?
I have seen a couple pictures of them shearing the splines off at the center bearing. I think a 2 piece shaft using the stock front and rear yoke but a thicker tubing and larger center bearing and spline would be a great solution.
I've done that to a stock driveshaft until the flange at the guibo (spelt that way on purpose) started to crack and twist. I had the local driveshaft shop make me up another one that I plan on installing eventually. It was under $300 for the replacing of the tube with a straight, non stepped, thicker wall tube and balance. My only advice is to inspect it every once in a while to catch it before it explodes.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Okay what about using the front and rear yoke and having a one piece ds made? Have it retain the stock flex disc unlike the dss ds.
That would be too much deflection for the guibo.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Okay do you happen to have a pic of your driveshaft? Did you leave the center splines and bearing and rear half alone?
I twisted the splines on one.
Has anyone made a custom 2 piece driveshaft?
I had the front section shortened and remade with thicker tubing, everything else including the rear section is totally stock. No vibrations to speak of. Akg poly bushings everywhere out back and the rally road rigid mounted large case conversion. I do run stock rubber engine and trans mounts for now.
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1995 M3 - Forged 9.8:1 2JZ, S366, MS3x, E85, LQ9s, 420g/PMC Motorsport kit, 4 clutch 3.15 LSD Large Case 757whp/710wtq
2011 X5 Xdrive35d- Blk on Cinnamon, Towing Pkg, Heat Pkg., etc..the tow rig/DD!
Wheel hop will kill everything.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
I'm patiently waiting!
Yes, that is the straight line solution.
I posted my response to the wheel hop issue in Rajcase's build thread by mistake.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Ive seen modified shafts break, my dss no shake to 170.
Ya know what doesn't have a guibo?
a th400
- - - Updated - - -
I'll stop
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
I've had 2. The first one vibrated hard above 100mph
But the 2nd which was bought this year doesn't vibrate. Maybe they got better ?!?
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My 5 speed dss ds vibrated like hell. My six speed didn't even to 198 mph. I think the shorter length did the trick.
As others have said its not difficult to have the driveshaft upgraded with thicker tubing. I had a custom one built for my car due to no OE driveshaft being the right length. The tube they replaced the front section with was the same OD, but was a much thicker material.
No problems so far with my driveshaft twisting ~100rwtq (not missing another digit )
With enough abuse the stock splines can twist with as low as 350wtq.
Bigger CSB and a DS from an extended cab long bed chevy pickup would make a great starting point to drop off at a driveshaft shop so they can use the splined parts out of it. Actually you could probably just modify the chevy CSB to fit the bmw.
When I was still planning to use my stock trans I contacted a driveshaft place in Texas that builds 2 piece shafts for diesel pickups. They also rebuilt e36 shaft so the guy was familiar with what I was working with. He told me they could build me a custom 2 piece shaft using a new center support and slip joint for a half ton pickup that would be the same relative size as an e36 shaft but would have about twice the torque capacity.
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