Ok, here goes nothing.
Clutch went to the floor as earlier stated, replaced the master and slave and bled the piss out of it. Someone with 30+ years of experience of working with bmws is doing the work. He cannot seem to figure it out. He said next step is to remove the gearbox, what would need to be replaced? The clutch? It didnt slip at all, it actually felt really good. I have been dealing with this for a few months now, and would like to have this resolved, what could it be?
If the slave pushrod is moving properly, the gearbox needs to come out to properly diagnose & fix. Either the release fork has failed or the pressure plate has an internal problem (diaphragm broken?). It could also be a badly worn release bearing collar, but less likely.
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With all those new parts I'd look under the dash while pushing the clutch pedal just to make sure the rod on the master is moving and the plastic clutch pedal isn't cracked or broken. They make metal replacements, by the way. At that point, assuming all the air is out, then as mentioned above, the transmission comes out. Could be the $2 plastic pivot broke.
See ya later,
tony
'98 M3, '92 Dinan3, '05 R1100S BCR, '07 R1200S, Aprilia T
I doubt its anything to do with the transmission. You would get pressure in the clutch pedal if the hydraulics were fine but they are not.
You are having pressure issues with the hydraulics of the clutch pedal or maybe the clutch pedal assembly wasnt installed correctly. Have you seen any brake fluid leaks? Maybe one of the new cylinders have bad seals?
I've heard of people bench bleeding the slave but i never had to. I use a power bleeder when i replaced my slave cylinder. Look for leaks.
Last edited by hc1001; 08-17-2017 at 10:59 PM.
Check the pedal itself at the upper bushings. These pedal arms eventually deform.
I agree the pivot pin could be an issue. Maybe you could see over there with an inspection camera put through the slave hole.
I always bleed the slave by hand with the slave removed and bleed valve pointing up. A new master requires bleeding also but is self bleeding and may require about 100 pumps or lifts of the pedal. But a 30 year bmw mechanic would know this.
check for leaks first, then broken bits in the pedal area, then trace the lines, then report back.
What year is the car? The later ones are self bleeding and can be installed on an older car. Well worth it.
1988 911 - Carb'd - Twin Plug - 3.6
1999 SL 500
2016 4Runner TEP - Gone
1995 M3 - LS2 - Gone
1998 M3 - Gone
1991 M5 - Gone
1993 RS America - Gone
1995 M3 - Gone
The car is a 97, we went ahead and dropped the gearbox, the clutch was shot, and the friction plate scorched in a couple places. The car had a M5 clutch and UUC ltw flywheel, so I bought a new m5 clutch and friction plate, parts arrived today and would be going on the car. In addition, while it was down the gearbox had the detents done, input and output seals, etc etc, and because the car had cheap flebay headers, I put stock manifolds back on with new bimmerworld exhaust because ya know why not. We will see if the clutch being replaced solves the issue. To be clear, there were no leaks in any of the lines and the systems had been bled with a power bleeder.
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