Ok...but...it's correct and normal for you? to connect boost to vacuum?
I have tried to pressure the system with this hose open...and it's impossible...(see video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DL-B2d7MrVY)
maybe it's what happen when I drive the car, all the boost goes throught this line to the breather, is this possible?
That is how BMW designed the vehicle and its breather system. Mine is setup like stock and works 100% correct. Yours is not to stock and does not work.
I have no clue what you are trying to show in your video, it is just a gauge moving. Do you not have more light?
Manifold to PCV
Manifold to fuel pressure regulator
Manifold to HVAC check valve
Manifold to Knock and Boost control box
I make E23 parts.
09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
10/1984 745i
11/1984 745i
11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.
Ok,
Sorry for the lack of explanation.
In the video, I tried to pressure the engine with this line open, like normal condition.
And I haven't succed to reach 0.5b because all pressure goes to this line.
And I have to plug it with a cap to succed to reach 0.5b and more to do the pressure test.
But if BMW designed, no problem. I just ask for it because i found strange to connect boost line directly to vacuum (aera between AFM and turbo is always in vacuum, is't it?)
I have:
Manifold to PVC
Manifold to fuel pressure regulator
Manifold to boost gauge (without check valve of course)
Manifold to Knock and Boost control box
Last edited by gigi; 04-13-2018 at 04:47 PM.
From the AFM to the turbo inlet will always be under vacuum while the engine is running. Boost will only be on the compressor outlet side of the turbo, but only at higher load and rpm times of the engine.
I'd recommend you have someone local to you give this car a inspection. We can keep guessing or pointing all day but without quality videos and pictures it makes helping you difficult. Can you pay a shop close to you to check it out?
I'm ok with this :-)
I sincerely think that the bimmerforum community is the best choice to help me to solve this kind of problem.
There are 745i enthusiasts, owners and knowers here...and not in shops...
Today, most of shops are lost without OBD...
And vintages shops are not familiarised with turbocharged engine...
Not so easy...
I'll try to make other video during track days next week, with all gauge (boost, fuel pressure, AFM) on the same screen to give you maximum informations.
Thanks again for your help, this car make me crazy!
Have you checked for an exhaust restriction?
Hello all!
Some news! Good and bad...
The good one, I removed the intercooler and now boost appears! a little boost only, approximatly 0.4b, better than 0 but it should normally reach 0.7b because this is the LJet wastegate installed on my M106.
But now I have another trouble, big hesitation and misfire as soon as I press the gas pedal, see the video below.
Idle is perfect (750rpm in reality, in the video you'll see above 1000 but it's because it's a 4cyl tachometer, so you have to multiply by 2/3)
It's seem that the trouble appear mostly when engine is hot, but not all the time...so not very easy to diagnose...
I think the fault is a input sensor to the motronic, like temp sensor, AFM, TPS or cranckshaft position sensor.
Have you ever seen similar trouble ?
Thanks a lot!
https://youtu.be/_LgBfV3y6hA
Last edited by gigi; 05-21-2018 at 03:22 PM.
Hello all,
Nobody to help me ?
How has it been with your problem ?
Hello,
So I decided to open the engine ...
20190302_173515c.jpg
I discovered that the head was slightly cracked at the exhaust valve of cylinder # 4.
I also think that the fuel pump had insufficient flow when boost because I had a poor mix when boost.
I still have to reassemble everything now ... a few hours of work ...
how did you repair the crack ? Be careful how you install the arp studs for the cylinder head ,, what instructions have you got ? how to do it ?
Hello,
I didn't repair it, but changed it with another head.
I don't install the ARP yet, why I have to be careful?
If it's for the rocker arm shafts holding, I machined threated holes with bolt to secure them:
20190924_200049.jpg
If you use oil or lube on the arp threads its difference on what tourque to use. What tourque will you use ? Arp lube is to recommend Put it on the washers to not only the threads.
You will also have to dent the oil control baffle in the valve cover to clear the tops of the ARP studs and also have to grind down some aluminum reinforcement ribs in the valve cover castomg. See my build thread, I think I pictured where I had to dent and grind.
Steve H.
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