HELP! Should I try a 530i Engine Swap?

[computiNATEor]

This is the piece I need to take off - detach the clip or is there an easier way?

Stuff a rag or paper towel in that intake boot; keeps things from falling into the intake. Just don't forget to remove it later.

Which piece are you trying to remove, in particular? There are a lot of pieces in that photograph. The connection to the DISA? There should be a metal release spring like the MAF connector.

[BimmerDad17]

Thanks, guys. I’ve had the hood in the service position and that’s been plenty of space to work in, though if I were starting over I’d wait *much* longer to do that - it’s really only necessary at this part of the process, when trying to actually remove the engine, and until now has been more of a hassle (one time I closed the hood and since t’s not quite as secure, it closed, but slightly off-kilter, just enough that it wouldn’t release! So I’ve put a wood block on the top of the radiator to prevent it from closing all the way).

Nate - thanks, and good point on the intake. Guess I’ve been lucky so far! Not sure how much of the history of this thread you’ve read, but my challenge is that while I’m (somewhat!) mechanically inclined, I actually know very little about cars, and frankly don’t know what anything is called or where anything is. Funny - I now know that “take off the ac compressor” is the simple removal of three bolts on the left side, one slightly underneath. But every single step of this process, including removing the ac compressor, has started with a “ok, let’s see if we can figure out where the ac compressor is...”.

Been a great experience! But that’s a long-winded way of saying I have no idea what the name of the piece I want to remove is. It’s just right of center in the picture, attached to the hose coming in from the right side at about the 3 o’clock position that bends down into it. The hose just above the air intake and running out of the picture at the 9 o’clock position is connected to it underneath (though that’s hard to tell from the picture) but no longer connected to anything on the other end.

Thanks again for all the help, everyone!

[BimmerDad17]

Ok all - so it happened! The piece I asked about just popped out. The two other parts that were still attached were one hose in the back, which we disconnected from the frame (seemed to be part of he cooling system), and another two hoses which connected to “hard” metal lines connected to the transmission (assuming they cooled the transmission? They were connected to the radiator.). The two connected to the radiator / transmission we needed to disconnect from the radiator end - they were threaded through the engine and couldn’t come off any other way until the entire engine was out.

I know there’s still a long way to go, but I feel just getting it out was a huge accomplishment and want to say another heartfelt thanks to everyone who helped out providing advice / guidance.

So - next step - any suggestions for sourcing an engine, preferably one under some kind of warranty? I searched online before starting all of this and saw there were options, but wasn’t about to get anything until I knew I could get this one out. I’m sure I can find something, but as always, insights are welcome!

Thanks again, guys.

- - - Updated - - -

Pics of the removal!

[effduration]

Nice job. I would love to see you summarize what you did and would do differently in the engine removal.
Surprised to see the radiator there and front end off, but there are different ways to do it. Shortening the chain length between hoist and balancer and balancer and engine would help with clearance. People love those chains, but ratchet straps allow for tightening during the lift. I would suggest turning balancer around for re-installation. The balancer crank has a tendency to hit the boom of the hoist.

As for a replacement engine. check out car-part.com and search for 530I/330I 2001-2003. I just saw one in Norcross, GA with 116k with warranty for less than $1100. Some might disagree, but I would have a slight preference for an engine used with an auto trans, particularly in higher mileage engines*. I would use you original harness . On a later 530i/330i You may have to swap coils or an oil pan from your current engine over. Not a big deal. You could also look for M54B30 engines from an X5 or X3 or Z3, but they will definitely require an oil pan change (Z3 might not).

*You can tell whether the engine was used with auto or manual by looking at flywheel. A flywheel (manual) looks quite different than a flex plate (auto). If both are missing, check to see if there is a pilot bearing in middle hole the crank assembly. If there is, it was a manual and that bearing has to be removed for an auto.

[computiNATEor]

The later M54s have the pencil style Delphi coils; they will require a valve cover swap as well.

[BimmerDad17]

Thanks! I’ve been planning on doing a summary/recap, and have been taking a few notes along the way. I planned on posting it when the reinstall is complete - we’ll see about posting some in advance.

Yeah, I definitely see where the ratchet harness would be (really!) helpful. I have one and planned on using it, but, um, well it got stuck, I couldn’t figure out how to un-stick it, and so just went with the chains and the leveler. That made it a bit of a bear. And yes, I did experience the problem you mention with the leveler - I was thinking it would be good to just have it in front for access, but at a point or two we did hit the limits, since the arm was interfering. I had to take the handle off for a bit and crank it without that, and even then I was running out of room.

I’m glad I took the front end off - there was no way I’d clear it with that still on. It might work in a shop, but with the home-duty lift I got from Harbor Freight, there was no way it would make it otherwise. I was trying to keep the radiator system on and intact, and that mostly happened, but yeah, that will likely come off before the reinstall - I’m having a hard time imagining getting anything in there, with the trouble I had getting it out! Will definitely be doing something different.

I’ll take a look on there - that engine sounds perfect. Some people had mentioned the possibility of using a slightly different engine, but I’d *really* prefer to stick to one that matches exactly. It’s hard enough finding videos on how to do some of these things with a standard engine, let alone trying to do a mod!

One other question - any suggestions on what to do with the old engine once I have the new one and swap over what I need to?

Thanks again all! Hope to be better about posting pics on the reinstall. Interesting thing is time is starting to become an issue. Have a few weekends booked for vacation over the summer (one weekend visiting friends, and another two taken up by a family vacation). And the hope is to have this running before school starts mid-August. Wish us luck!

[edjack]

Re busted engine, ask the guy who sold you the replacement.

I suspect most any junkyard will accept it, if not pay for it.

[effduration]

If you want another project, get an engine stand and attempt a rebuild. 3 liter M54's still have some value. First step, at little cost, would be to remove the head and have it checked by a machinist to see if it's salvageable. In my limited experience with four m54 heads, was that two of them were so far gone in terms of warpage (warped more than 11-12 1000's of an inch) that it was uneconomic to try and fix them. But two of them I was able to have repaired for $175. If you are able to rebuild the engine - new head gasket, new bolts, time-sert block, and possibly new piston rings -you can save it for another car with a blown engine now that you have become a master engine installer. You could also sell the engine you have just rebuilt.

To be sure, rebuilding an M54 engine is not a trivial or cheap project, but it is very doable, even for a patient first timer. There is a lot more to do than the 4 things I summarized above.

Another idea is make a slick coffee table out of it as described & shown here - which I am currently doing:

(picture is of an M54 engine)

https://jalopnik.com/5868003/whats-t...a-coffee-table

[iShipwreck]

...One other question - any suggestions on what to do with the old engine once I have the new one and swap over what I need to?

I personally would rebuild it. It would be another great project for your boys and they would get a chance to look at all the interworkings of the engine and what everything looks like and does. Good learning experience.

[BimmerDad17]

Thanks again, all! I may give that a go. The seller will give me $100 for the old engine. Question is how long I can get away with keeping it without my wife killing me first!

So called about the engine on car-part. They don’t have that one, but do have another - 122k miles, with a 3 yr / 36k mile warranty, *IF* I replace the water pump, thermostat, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal. I’m a little skeptical, that if something happens they use that as an excuse to void the warranty (I was all in before they told me the warranty was only good if I replaced all those things first!). The engine is $1045 without the full warranty (6 months, parts only), $1370 with it.

Any thoughts on how hard those things are to do, and how likely they are to try and screw me down the road? They all sound like good things to do, but...

For those DIYers following this, they’ll deliver the engine free of charge to my mechanic. I’m going to rent a truck to pick it up from his place.

[djb2]

They are likely paying about $300-$350 for a boneyard engine. Offering the warranty (really, insurance) makes the engine sound better, but it's a minimal risk to them. If they bet wrong, they spend the warranty money on buying another, and that one won't come with a warranty.

And I'm always suspicious of the unverifiable usage claims -- 122K miles? For an e39? My "sunny day" Z3 has about 100K.

[geargrinder]

Yeah. And I've heard far more bummer stories about trying to make junkyard warranty claims than success stories. Invariably some variation of "oh well it MUST be your fault because that __whateverpart__ was perfect and known good... You MUST have done something wrong..."

Honestly mostly of the stuff they want you to change yes you prob should do anyway. Why go though all this hassle and then find out you could have headed off something like a rear main seal easily when the motor was out... But I'd probably look for a more reasonable priced option. For $1400 I'd actually expect them to HAVE DONE some of those maintenance refresh items!

[BimmerDad17]

Thanks, all. Yeah, that confirms a lot of what I was thinking. I was happily surprised there was no fine print when I first got it. With the fine print they added, not sure it’s worth it. And yes, that seems to me like something you’d think they’d do, as well! For the extra $300, seems like they could add a little labor and significantly reduce their chance of a claim!

I’ll see what I can find online about changing those out / sealing.

Tough part is the time crunch coming up - been taking a slower approach to try and make sure it’s still more of an interesting project for the boys than something they end up resenting me over! But school starts in a little over a month, and their mom is counting on the car being ready so she doesn’t have to join a carpool or drive them every day.

Latest glitch is we’ve been having a tough time getting some of the bolts out to remove the transmission - snapped a couple of adapters (to get the 11mm head to fit on my 1/2” breaker bar). Lubed it up with Kroil Oil and PB Blaster, but no luck yet. Might be time to buckle down and pick up an impact wrench.

[effduration]

Latest glitch is we’ve been having a tough time getting some of the bolts out to remove the transmission - snapped a couple of adapters (to get the 11mm head to fit on my 1/2” breaker bar). Lubed it up with Kroil Oil and PB Blaster, but no luck yet. Might be time to buckle down and pick up an impact wrench.

Imagine how tough it would be if the engine and trans were still in car. What bolts are you talking about exactly? 11mm fasteners? torque converter bolts? The bellhousing to engine block bolts use e-torx 10's and 12's or 14's (or some combo there-of). Buy a good set of e-torx sockets, preferably 1/2 inch drive. I hope you're not attempting to undo the e-torx bolts with an 11mm socket?

[geargrinder]

^^^^ double down on that. both the "get 1/2" sockets don't use adapters" and "get e-torx sockets!" parts.

[BimmerDad17]

Ok guys, so I thought an update was in order. Transmission is off, though all the wiring is still on and connected for the moment.

Timing is a huge issue, as I mentioned. School here in the South starts early - August 13. In order to ensure they have it for school, I’m thinking we need to have it to the mechanic by August 6, at the latest. Unfortunately, as it turns out we’re going to be away three of the weekends (and one week) between now and then. My goal was for us to get everything transferred over to the new engine, and to get that mounted, at least. Then to do as much as we can under the hood before getting it to the mechanic. Unfortunately, the engine’s not ready (more in a sec).

In terms of the engine, thought about this a bunch. It’s kind of annoying, because it’s the labor that’s the most expensive, not the engine. So even though at the end of the day it’s going to cost about $1000 more all-in, I decided to do what’s necessary to have the warranty. I ordered the engine with the warranty. With that, they ship free to my mechanic. He’s going to take a look and do the recommended work ($300 parts, $300 labor, on top of the all-in cost of engine, warranty, tax, etc.).

Unfortunately, they had a busy week and couldn’t get to it. And unfortunately, this was the last full, uncommitted weekend I had. So not a lot of high hopes for getting much done the few weeknights I have left.

Looks like it will be a job getting some of the electrical transferred over - the engine they delivered has the electrical just chopped out (will post pics in a sec). We’ve done what we can with the existing engine. Will let you know what we can accomplish over he next two weeks!

- - - Updated - - -

Photos of the new engine at the shop.

[Jason5driver]

^^^^ double down on that. both the "get 1/2" sockets don't use adapters" and "get e-torx sockets!" parts.

Snap-On ?

[geargrinder]

Trying to get this straight - so cut to the chase: you are going to bail at this point, right? You're basically going to have the "roller" towed to a mechanic who has the new motor, is doing the accessories-refresh and parts-transfer, and then is going to install it?
So you'll have done the motor-pull and not much else I guess.

OK. That's a shame. The real satisfaction in doing stuff like this comes from the moment when you get it all back together and can look and say "we did that!" But... I realize life / practicalities intervene.

Frankly if you weren't ready to sacrifice other life things and to "make this a priority" you weren't prepared for this job. Really you needed to hard block-out evenings and/or weekends with no negotiations to get this done. "Oh we'll fit it in when we are free and only after we do everything else the wife has on the agenda every week" was always going to fail I'm afraid...

In the end... looks like you spent a few multi-hour windows here and there in September and October of last year fiddling with taking little stuff. Then again few hours here and there in January...
Then jump to June and finally looks like you got slightly serious and committed some real hours... got the motor out... But then immediately...
Let other life stuff take over and take priority...

Well... yeah... That was never gonna get it done...

This isn't ragging by the way - its fine if other stuff takes priority... but... If you can't manage that for whatever household-reasons, or, don't want to cuz you'd prefer to be on vacation or going to soccer games or whatever else it is that you had to be doing w/ the kids and family... and again, thats' FINE... but then indeed this ain't your calling.

Lotta the DIY guys around here for whom wrenching comes natural are always quick to push n00bz and civilians to "go for it buy tools its easy!!!! you'll love it!!!!".
Well not for everybody it ain't, and your story is a good example of why...

[computiNATEor]

I’m that DIY guy. Sorry it didn’t work out for you guys.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

I saw this coming way back in page 1. Once the car gets sorted out, I sure hope you stay on top of the maintenance....

[effduration]

I can't argue with GG's analysis of the OP's timeline. But I think it was clear from the beginning the OP was going to take his time.

I also think he is sending it to a mechanic to preserve the warranty on the new engine. If he does the install himself - no warranty. Do I have that correct? In hindsight, he could have had a mechanic do all of it for not much more money and a lot quicker, but he didn't know that going into it.

I wouldn't quite call this engine swap an unsuccessful DIY. The OP, and his kids are far better prepared to do the next BMW swap if they choose to do so.

[geargrinder]

I don't think the mechanic has to do the 'prep' work to keep the (most likely waste of money ) warranty - I think if OP did the work and documented it well that'd be fine (he hasn't mentioned anything about the prep requiring a pro-tech) however I'd agree if he DID have a warranty claim, being able to pull paperwork / invoices from a pro-shop is likely more convincing to the (IMO bogus) engine-seller.

[effduration]

You might be right. I was under the possibly mistaken belief that the warranty is only good if a mechanic performs the engine install (in addition to maintenance replacements required), but the OP makes no mention of this requirement. The fact that the seller providing the warranty ships free ONLY to a mechanic also led me to think a mechanic install was required.

[BimmerDad17]

Yep - to be clear, we could have done that work ourselves, but being able to just pull out a mechanic’s invoice and say, “yes, this was done, and it was done right” confirmed the value to me.

In terms of time, this was always intended to be a fun / interesting / learning project rather than a necessity (or even some new “calling”). While we certainly won’t have the satisfaction of installing the new engine ourselves, I’m happy to define this instead as a successful “pull”, and a great learning experience. Part of what made us give this a go was I had always thought of doing some kind of work on cars (though my original thought was a less ambitious project and a less complicated car!). But it was never intended to be a high priority, particularly when dealing with teenage boys - if I made them commit to doing it as much as they would need to, they’d just resent me and the experience. It’d become like nagging them to clean their room or do their homework - all things they need to do, but never fun. On the contrary, my oldest son has actually started working for my mechanic.

So again, IÂ’m happy with the way things have turned out, while not ideal or as planned (but what can I say - IÂ’m a glass is half full / silver lining kind of guy!). And I definitely appreciate all the help and advice IÂ’ve gotten along the way.

I do plan on posting a lessons learned at some point. And if I get really ambitious, IÂ’ll post an annotation to djbÂ’s guide to give my inexperienced-eye view perspective on some things, to really help out those in my position trying to tackle something like this for the first time. ItÂ’s the least I can do to contribute some here!

Thanks again, all.

[BimmerDad17]

Hey guys - so I thought an update was in order.

Our mechanic is finishing everything up today (yep, been a while!). My son is particularly excited to drive it home. He was there yesterday when they started it up for the first time, and definitely has the bug - will be spending the money he’s earning at the mechanic’s on mods for the car, I’m sure. I told him I still have to sign off on them!

Interesting development - I bought the engine from a local supplier I found online. I have an invoice for a 2001 530i engine. Well, they sold me a 330ci engine. Unfortunately, my mechanic didn’t realize it was different until he put it in and it didn’t fit, because the oil pan is sized differently. They’re of course compatible, but not realizing until after it was in meant they had to take it back out again to swap out the oil pan, meaning extra labor.

I’ve called the supplier and raised holy hell. Their initial response is that they only guarantee the core of course, to which I pointed out that regardless of the guarantee, the receipt / invoice says 530i, and selling me something other than that is *fraud*.

My suggestion is they buy the core off me for $625, rather than the $125 they said they would. Otherwise I’ll continue to raise some hell. We’ll see where it goes.

Still waiting to get the car back and drive it home before putting together my “lessons learned / summary”, but I thought an interim update was warranted. Hope I’m keeping y’all entertained, in the meantime!

- - - Updated - - -

Btw - if this does work out with the seller, my son will be at least a little disappointed - he was hoping for the coffee table option for the core. Of course, just getting it into our basement (the only place my wife would even consider allowing an engine core coffee table!), would have been a heck of a project in itself!