HELP! Should I try a 530i Engine Swap?

[s13flyboy]

Wow John, you really nailed it on this post, it should be a sticky.

x2 for a sticky, great post geargrinder!

x a million for organizing yourself, I'm doing a slightly more complicated swap and it really helps when you leave it for a week or so and come back to the project.

While BMWs are electrically complicated, I think they are engineered well. (I.e. 2 bolts and some pushpins to pull the bumper off vs 15-20 bolts of various random sizes on my old Nissan 240sx) if you are gonna learn I think it's a good brand/platform.

Parts are considerably cheaper online vs a dealer, and local parts stores probably don't have the parts/quality (OE/OEM brands) you want.

The forums are are a great resource, don't let anyone tell you it's over your head, etc. Have fun, it will be very rewarding!

[geargrinder]

Hey my post was 'generic' stuff... djb'z is much more 'application specific' and right on point for OP for very engine-specific stuff. Although I think he's somewhat forgetting OP is not familiar with stuff we take for granted ("you've probably had fan off before"... ummm... not our guy! but that reminds me that's another potential special tool... )

But yeah. Can't say it enough - ORGANIZE the parts boxes, ORGANIZE the fastener bags, MAKE CARDBOARD FASTENER maps, TAKE PICTURES, MAKE DRAWINGS... etc...

[s13flyboy]

Totally, when I first joined I already had some experience, but I don't see too many intro to wrenching posts, etc. I still mostly lurk and research a lot.

Oh! OP, get a download of the Bentley manual for the e39, you can find them around or from Bentley themselves, or even a hard copy if you prefer.

[sleuth255]

This thread just appeared today. Looks helpful.

[BimmerDad17]

djb2 - THANKS so much for the advice. And for the full write-up, which brings me to...

sleuth255 - thanks for pointing that out -- it's djb's more detailed, full write-up of his removal. I will be referring to that plenty in the coming weeks!

Started putting tools to work today. My write-up will be REALLY basic, probably too much so, but here goes:

Disconnect battery (in trunk) (2 min).
Put hood into service mode (2-5 min):
- Pop clips on each hood strut at top. Should be able to wiggle strut off. Have someone hold it!
- Lift hood, pop bolt through holes to secure.

Remove bumper (simple to do, gives extra room to work inside car) (5-10 min):
- Remove "pull tabs" from top inside of lower "grille" (for lack of a better term). Mine only had one on each side (yeah, I've seen videos with more -- makes you wonder?). Wiggle them off.
- Now you can access two large torx bolts, one on each side. Remove those.
- Some videos called for also unscrewing the bumper from inside the wheel well. Mine was not connected there (again, interesting???).
- Slide bumper off, disconnect wires to fog lights.

I started trying to remove the radiator system, but I think I was unscrewing unnecessary parts. Looks like I was taking the headlights off. I also realized I do not have anything close to helpful to remove the fan nut. I have the radiator started, but definitely going to need to take a closer look at djb's post and some others to see if I can figure out what to do there.

I also spent a LOT of time watching (more) random DIY videos to see what I could figure out, trip to Home Depot to buy a few of the items djb recommended (I had a ratchet set, but needed to buy a set of Torx drivers to get the bumper bolt off, as well as a crescent wrench set, while I was there).

Suggestions for best place tool / place to get it to get the fan nut off?

[MCExpy10]

What a great project! Just did an engine swap in my 528i not that long ago. I learned A LOT! I (unfortunately) did not read up on anything and later found out that it's a lot easier to remove the front of the car rather than trying to drop the engine in from the top.

In terms of specialty tools, I rented everything I needed from Autozone. I think the tool you're looking for is a fan clutch removal tool (two pieces). I think they charged me $30 and I had 90 days to bring it back. Most auto parts stores seem to let you rent tools. The only thing I had problems with was an engine hoist. I ended up renting from a place local to me for $25 for 24 hours. I checked all of the auto parts stores, Home Depot and Menards. No one seems to rent them out. You could also check Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist and just sell it again when you're done.

[djb2]

I didn't put the hood into the service position until the engine crane touched the lining. It seems less stable, and I was concerned about a wind gust or a bump causing a problem.

One factor for me was that I was working in my driveway, and didn't want the car to be obvious disassembled. I could slide the bumper back on and lower the hood in a few minutes, and the car would appear to be intact at first glance.

I didn't include the bumper removal details in my write-up because there are multiple variations with trim level and year.

$25 for a engine crane rental is a quite reasonable fee, especially if it includes a load leveler and all of the hooks and quick links that you need.

I bought an 1-1/4" (31.75 mm) wrench for the fan clutch, which was oddly much less expensive than a 32mm wrench.

[geargrinder]

I started trying to remove the radiator system, but I think I was unscrewing unnecessary parts. Looks like I was taking the headlights off. I also realized I do not have anything close to helpful to remove the fan nut.

Radiator comes out with very few fasteners. You need to get the fan off, and then the expansion tank, then the shroud (which is held in by plastic pin rivets...get used to how those work), and then and only then it will just be a couple bolts and come right out. But you need the other stuff out of the way first.

trip to Home Depot to buy a few of the items djb recommended (I had a ratchet set, but needed to buy a set of Torx drivers to get the bumper bolt off, as well as a crescent wrench set, while I was there).

Gaaah. I think I might have to unsub this thread.. getting the 'talking to a wall' impression a little bit on some of this important stuff.

It's pretty clear you're not taking the tool shopping list that several of us have given you seriously enough. Or even paying attention at all to it.

Seriously dude. Get more tools. I strongly suggest you refer back to my note again - I think djb is short-listing the tools required by quite a bit... he's pointing out the main major things you absolutely need but really dude you need to have a good set of stuff..., Look at the other notes a couple of us have given you... It'll save you countless occasions of dicking around for 3 hours with something that should have taken 1 because you didn't have the right ones.

Do NOT USE CRESCENT WRENCHES except as extreme last resort. Even then. They will round off nuts/bolts and leave you in a world of hurt. OK in a worst and 'safe' case when I don't have anything else and I know the risk is low, I'll maybe reach for one but its LAST RESORT. Gahh. Not crescent wrenches.

Do you have a set of combination wrenches? Kinda seems like not. Combination wrenches are these things - you MUST have them. Must must must. You'll want a pretty big set for job like this.



You might want to try other places than Home Depot for your tool shopping also. They tend to not have tons of mechanic type tools. Their Husky brand is meh OK for home use, although if I have to go with big-box hardware-store tools, then I think I prefer Lowe's Kobalt most of the time and in plenty of cases I'll even take the Harbor Freight Professional stuff over the Husky... they'll definitely be cheaper and sometimes are also nicer to boot. Also Sears/Craftsman which are now available at Ace hardware stores... lifetime warranty... Craftsman used to be excellent stuff, now adays it can be 'Crapsman' but depending on the item for a hobbyist trying to find retail tools its an OK option. Their ratchets are the worst and tend to break or jam pawls, but something like combo wrenches will still be fine.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Yeah, the Kobalt stuff from Lowes is definitely better than the Husky bits.

[djb2]

Radiator comes out with very few fasteners. You need to get the fan off, and then the expansion tank, then the shroud (which is held in by plastic pin rivets...get used to how those work), and then and only then it will just be a couple bolts and come right out. But you need the other stuff out of the way first.

...

Seriously dude. Get more tools. I strongly suggest you refer back to my note again - I think djb is short-listing the tools required by quite a bit... he's pointing out the main major things you absolutely need but really dude you need to have a good set of stuff..., Look at the other notes a couple of us have given you... It'll save you countless occasions of dicking around for 3 hours with something that should have taken 1 because you didn't have the right ones.
.

I was trying to be precise and complete about the required tools. It wasn't a shopping list, but rather "take these under the car so you won't need to crawl back out". Or "take these to the boneyard so you won't need to drive back home for more".

If there are any missing, please suggest them. I actually think that the list is too large. I included some tools you wouldn't immediately need, such as the E10/E12/E14 needed to separate the engine from transmission, and the T25/T27 for the intake.

The only thing that is usefully left open-ended is the exact set of ratchets and extensions. Those depend on the sockets you are using. There is a trend to move down a size e.g. using 1/4" drive when 3/8" or even 1/2" was used previously.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

A trend to use 1/4" drive instead of 3/8, even 1/2", dumbest thing I ever heard. So if these millennial twuts started a trend to jump of a cliff, rather than work on their E39's because us old farts decided that feeding time was over at the zoo, and they would have to start figuring things out on their own, you'd consider that? Trends.... Lol!

[djb2]

I think it reflects the increasing standards of mid-grade sockets, along with the change to battery impact drivers.

I have several 10mm sockets in 1/2" drive, and still will reach for a breaker bar well before it's actually required. Hmmm, in retrospect that might be due to growing up with Craftsman ratchets.

Someone that grew up with a M18 impact driver in their hand might think that even 3/8" drive is for specialty use.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Sorry man, not buying it. I have worked over 25 years professionally in automotive and motorcycle shops, even a tractor shop, with nothing but SnapOn, Matco, and Mac tools. I fired a mechanic once for arguing with me about why he shouldn't be torquing down some front brake caliper bolts with a quarter inch drive.....

[BimmerDad17]

Thanks, all. I'll try the 1 1/4" wrench for the fan clutch.

I'm definitely taking the information seriously! But I'm only going to start dropping real money when I'm sure this is going to get somewhere. So for example, I'm probably not going to buy a $400 tool chest just quite yet! On the other hand, spending $40 at Home Depot I can do for now. And while I appreciate I'm not getting top of the line stuff, remember, I'm not trying to equip a full mechanic's shop, I'm getting tools I'll use a dozen times or so over the next six months. If they're selling them at all, I'm fairly certain they'll be good enough for my intended use! And yes, I said crescent, but I actually got the combination wrenches. I've priced out the jack and jack stands, and will get those when I'm ready to head under the car. Unfortunately, I don't have a Harbor Frieght nearby, but I do have a Home Depot around the corner, and an Autozone a little farther than that. The buddy at work said he can drop off the lift and engine stand any time, as well as a stabilizer bar and extra chain, so I should be good on that front.

On the radiator, I took off the clips in front (each one had two rubber "feet" connecting it) and started with some screws, but again, some seemed there to hold in the headlights and had nothing to do with the radiator, so I put those back. (And yes, I've been taking LOTS of picture along the way, and labeling all parts and bagging them - one thing I did was to take a whiteboard and lay it on the ground. As I take parts out I'm also laying them on the whiteboard, and labeling them and taking a picture of that. I think I'm going to start adding numbers to them, too, so that when I bag them I add the number to make it easier to find them later.)

I'll pick up the 1 1/4" wrench and see what I can do to get the fan off this weekend. If that doesn't work I'll splurge the $30 for the rental at AutoZone.

Oh, and I'm in my driveway, too, and had the same concern. I actually bought a car cover so that even if the hood is off, I've got the car covered and it won't be an eyesore. I'm also sliding the bumper back on when done, for the same reason. I agree, waiting on putting the hood in service mode would probably be a good thing - it seems secure enough with bolts in, BUT you never know! I do appreciate the extra space to look around (and extra light it affords). So hopefully it's not a problem.

Thanks again, all!

[geargrinder]

Someone that grew up with a M18 impact driver in their hand might think that even 3/8" drive is for specialty use.

LOL.

Even as a curmudgeonly old geezer I do wubz me my Milwaukee M12 battery mini-driver and 3/8" ratchet though.
I used to use air ratchet but DAMN it's nice not having to drag that hose all around the car all the time.
I even coerced ScottieDucati into buying a set.

- - - Updated - - -

one thing I did was to take a whiteboard and lay it on the ground. As I take parts out I'm also laying them on the whiteboard, and labeling them and taking a picture of that. I think I'm going to start adding numbers to them, too, so that when I bag them I add the number to make it easier to find them later.)

CLEVER, Dad, maybe you'll do OK with this project after all. I like it. Whiteboard label pixorz. I love me a good whiteboard. Was just thinking I need one in my pathetic tiny garage somehow. Might have to move the Police - No Parking sign.

But definitely mark the bags. I usually write exactly what they are on it "water pump", "headlights", "left scrotal retractor", etc. Sometimes even more, when I was helpin Scottie the other day I drew a quick picture on the bag of where the long bolts and where the short bolts go for the upper timing covers so he'd know as he pulled them out of the bag. Didn't really warrant the full cardboard-trick in that case, but if you forgot where long/short went you could screw some stuff up good.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

I wouldn't have taken the hood off so soon. I hope your car cover is completely waterproof. There are some areas of the engine bay you don't want water pooling up in. The brake booster compartment on the drivers side, underneath the cabin filter, and the DME compartment on the other side underneath the cabin filter. They do have a half inch hole down at the bottom, but if they are clogged with debris, they will pool up, you don't want that happening.
The fan clutch wrench. I can guaranty whatever you pick up from Home Depot will not fit into the skinny area you need the get the wrench into. The proper wrench is only about a quarter inch wide, the thread is a reverse thread, so go righty tighty. Your mentality about only using these tools for a few months is a little laughable. Tools are an investment, and you will be using them again, and again. I can already see signs of where this is heading, but I hope I am wrong.

[djb2]

You definitely don't need to take the hood off. Taking it off greatly increases the risk that it will be damaged, and then you have to deal with realigning it.

The headlights stay attached to the "radiator support". The radiator support only has a few (four?) fasteners on each side: the three 13mm nuts to the 'frame horns', and a fender screw close to the headlights.
You'll need to disconnect the electric fan connector, its cable retainer, and perhaps unbolt the intake air duct. Detach all of the headlight electrical connectors, including the hidden two. It's much easier to if you have a friend to help when pulling the support off, since you probably forgot the two turn signal connectors.

Don't forget the hood release cable box. it's by the intake air duct.

[geargrinder]

I don't have a Harbor Frieght nearby

Well. Steve is gonna be disappointed in me for mentioning this but as far as I can tell there are 5-6 HFT's scattered around the perimeter of Atlanta, so that story doesn't really hold up.

That said, you don't buy everything / just-anything from HFT, you have to take the measure of any one item or set. As mentioned the "Professional" grade stuff is pretty good - as good or better than big box stores but cheaper. Other stuff is cheap Chinese junk. You have to be selective for instance with their screwdrivers or pliers... mostly they're pretty junky. Their ratchets aren't bad though.

[toybreaker]

Going to be following this thread. Looking forward to the payoff video posted when you and your boys are done.....

Wish my dad did this with me. He just bought me a 65 mustang and said "have at it kid"....

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Well. Steve is gonna be disappointed in me for mentioning this but as far as I can tell there are 5-6 HFT's scattered around the perimeter of Atlanta, so that story doesn't really hold up.

That said, you don't buy everything / just-anything from HFT, you have to take the measure of any one item or set. As mentioned the "Professional" grade stuff is pretty good - as good or better than big box stores but cheaper. Other stuff is cheap Chinese junk. You have to be selective for instance with their screwdrivers or pliers... mostly they're pretty junky. Their ratchets aren't bad though.

Hey man! I love Harbor Freight. Sure, they sell a lot of junk, but they also sell some really good stuff. Their low profile jack is one of the best deals out there at $94 when it is on sale, it is always on sale!!! The low profile jack they have has a longer arm, which raises the car higher then the other 3 ton grey jack that they sell for ten bucks less. You do have to be selective when it comes from hand tools, some are good, some are junk. But for the price? Shoot, some really good deals! I love that place.

[BimmerDad17]

Looks like the closest Harbor Freight is about 35 min away (Home Depot about 10). I'll probably make the trek out there to pick up a jack / jack stands, as it looks like the next step on djb's write-up is to get under the car and remove the exhaust.

Had a bit of bad luck today. Tried taking the fan nut off, and it clearly wasn't happening with just the wrench. The nut is attached to a central part that all rotates, so I need something to hold that and be able to take the nut off (yep, turning clockwise to remove this one). I tried going to Autozone to rent the fan clutch tool. They only had one, couldn't tell me if it would work or not, and it would cost $65 (to rent). Looked it up online. Amazon SELLS it for $62, and (a) reviews are bad, and (b) doesn't look like it would work. Glad I didn't do it. Looks like what I need is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...W6SADVHSDTPZT5

Anyone know the spacing between the "secondary" nuts on the fan clutch? Looks like someone said that the spacing on this tool is 3". Obviously, the Bimmer will be metric, but close enough? If not, anyone have any other ideas how I can get that off? Thanks!

BTW -- I've taken to now writing a number for the part I'm about to remove onto a piece of paper, taking a picture, removing the part, and then putting the part AND the piece of paper into the baggie. Will hopefully make it really easy to put everything back together when I'm done!

Thanks as always, guys!

[djb2]

Autozone should rent the tool for free.

They charge your card for the full retail amount, and then refund it when returned.

From their point of view it was exactly what was happening before with unethical customers, but now they get to "sell" a used tool and customers feel an obligation to buy the relevant parts from them. (I've actually kept/bought loaner tools when they worked well, so it was a good plan.)

The fan pulley nuts are laid out in a rectangle, not a square. The typical holding tool has a round hole at the end, and a slot for the inner hole to work with either spacing. I once didn't understand the swearing, until I ran into a fan clutch that just would not come off. A friend and I had to make up a tool from 3/8" bar stock. Since then I've never skipped using plenty of anti-seize and reinstalling by spinning on by hand.

[geargrinder]

There are tons of "fair for home occaisonal use" fan tools that will be ok for cheapcheap. I like the ones w 2 spacings , one on each side, and as DJ says , the oval slots to make them more versatile.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+tool&_sacat=0

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Man, I paid $75 for the Matco 32mm fan clutch wrench, those are some good deals!

[jp5Touring]

I have the 32mm fan clutch wrench, bought off eBay. It a nice wrench.