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Thread: HELP! Should I try a 530i Engine Swap?

  1. #1
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    HELP! Should I try a 530i Engine Swap?

    Ok guys, so here's the situation. I've had a 2001 530i for the past 13 years. I bought it with about 30k miles on it, and I only put on another 100k myself. Well, while driving to work yesterday I had what I'm just going to call a catastrophic failure. It's been leaking oil the past couple of years, and I've been refilling, but evidently not quite as often as I should. Took it to the mechanic and well, you can guess the rest. It's not the best time budget-wise (is it ever?). I'm thinking of replacing with a used 335i, we'll see how that goes.

    In any event, what to do with the 530? Well, I happen to have two teenage boys, both within a year of driving (one has a permit and has been learning on my 530 -- wish I could say the failure was related!). For what I'm hoping will be only $2k or so all in, they'll have a really nice car if we swap out the engine. The car is otherwise in great shape.

    Here's the thing: I know NOTHING about working on cars. Ok, maybe a little more than nothing, but not much. I have a 25+-year old degree in mechanical engineering, but due to job markets, etc., I've never actually worked as an engineer. So yeah, I'm counting that as nothing. That said, I've always wanted to work on a car. And I've thought it important for my boys to do "something" over the summer, so for the past few years I've had them do projects ranging from very simple to slightly more complex (the last couple of years they built themselves a set of speakers as well as a gaming computer).

    I'm thinking this could not only be a good project for them to learn on, this could be something we do together. There's no time constraint -- the earliest the older one will be able to drive on his own is next March.

    So, thoughts? Would I be COMPLETELY out of my league? Happy to document the process (train wreck?) for others to see how it goes! Of course, needless to say, if I (we!) go through with it, any help would be greatly appreciated. I've already read through this thread (wish the pictures worked!):

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ght=e39+engine

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    2k for a swap with a decent engine isn't bad at all. Way cheaper than financing a 335. I'm fairly handy with DIY stuff but engine swap scare me away a bit and I've been wrenching in my spare time for 15 years. A swap will also require a decent set of tools and engine hoist, do you have all of the tools available because that will also cut in to your potential cost savings but you'll have tools for life. I'd say let the mechanic do the swap, you can always do smaller maintenance items with your boys like oil changes and I'm sure the front suspension also needs a refresh at this point


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    It's out of your league

  4. #4
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    Anybody can do it if they just put their mind to it. Common sense is all you need, that and an awesome set of tools like Jeff Spicoli's dad had...
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    Anybody can do it if they just put their mind to it. Common sense is all you need, that and an awesome set of tools like Jeff Spicoli's dad had...
    uh, that was a "killer" set of tools, but nonetheless 150 internet points for a great reference.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by frknvgn View Post
    uh, that was a "killer" set of tools, but nonetheless 150 internet points for a great reference.
    Haha! Was it a killer set of tools?

    Ok, just checked with my sources, we were both wrong, it was "ultimate set of tools".
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  7. #7
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    Used 335 will run you way more in maintenance than the E39 will. I'd stay with the E39

  8. #8
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    I say yes absolutely... But...

    Budget for solid tool chest and important gear to get started (jackstands, floor jack,hoist....)... And...

    Find an old family or friend type who's an experienced wrencher who's willing to mentor you and the boys. Theres gotta be somebody you know like that.

    He wouldn't have to do much work just get you started I'm various bits and show up from time to time and guide you through the major parts , esp the trickiest and dangerous bits with engines hoisted and cars in jack stands.

    I help people like that all the time and often it's just hang out for couple hours giving guidance and lending a hand, then I can leave them with a whiteboard of "homework" they can continue to do before the next major session.

    Could be fun as hell father/sons thing. If the donor engine is the exact same model and trustworthy for condition a pure swap isn't as much complicated as it is just lotta wrench spinning and some heavy lifting.. As long as you don't have to open it up.

    Where it gets trickier is making experienced judgement calls deciding "what else to do as it goes in", and then some of those "add on" subjobs might be more advanced esp if it's decided the donor should get some timing work done to freshen it up etc. That's where a mentor would help a lot...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    Haha! Was it a killer set of tools?

    Ok, just checked with my sources, we were both wrong, it was "ultimate set of tools".
    I just remember he was a TV repairman.
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  9. #9
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    Yeah, everything Geargringo just said. But also use some brain power, replace things like engine and transmission mounts, change out the gaskets for the oil pan, main engine seal, cooling system, all that kind of stuff. I am sure, if you have someone looking over your shoulder, and post everything here, others could also give you advice, get you and your kids involved. You all would appreciate that car even more so after, and other maintenance would be a piece of cake.
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  10. #10
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    Thanks for the feedback, all! To be clear, I'm buying a new car for myself (top contender right now is a fully-loaded 328i xDrive with M Sport package in Estoril Blue / Black). The 530 swap would be for my kids when they're able to drive next year, so we'd have plenty of time to work on it and/or redo it, if necessary. Biggest worry of mine is disconnecting / connecting the transmission, from what I can see.

    I do have an acquaintance at the gym I've talked to about tinkering with cars, and he mentioned he'd have a lift available for me to borrow (and to Snotty's point, I'm hoping he'll be able to mentor me a little bit on occasion for food / drink!). But other than that, I've really got nothing other than basic tools - socket set, screwdrivers, etc. I'd have to get at least a torque wrench. And I've got another friend with a fairly extensive tool set, though not automotive-specific.

    What else goes on the list of things to buy? I was hoping that the $2k-ish all-in would include the cost of tools. My mechanic said if I could source an engine (which I've seen online anywhere from $500-1300), he'd install it for $2200 labor.

    Look at it this way: if we do it and this works, this could be the ultimate DIY engine swap on the forums!

  11. #11
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    If swapping an M54, I'd try to get a ZHP if you can. I wish I had done the same thing...

    I would also recommend opening it up and replacing all seals, fluids, gaskets, etc.

    These things would be an otherwise PITA to replace when installed.

    Good luck to whichever option you choose!

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    Frikkin Steve takin credit for my ideas again. What a forkin dick.

    I disagree about the open up and refresh idea. I'd absullly avoid that unless the mentor is all in. Dude this is a guy with "a set of sockets and some Screwdrivers" and zero experience. Keep it simple.

    Tools - already mentioned. Jackstands. Floor jack. Hoist. but also prob more than you have for hand tools.
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  13. #13
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    Hay mon, I wuz jest woikin' ofa yer eyedi yer!
    But yeah, it would be great for their moto trainer to do all that stuff with them, while the engine is on a stand. What a better way to show them how things are properly done, next time they have to do it while it is in the car, they won't be so intimidated anymore. Sheit, most of the clowns on here would probably benefit from it too.
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  14. #14
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    So, I was thankfully able to limp my 530 to the mechanic when it had its "issues". They were able to check it out enough to know it was an engine problem, but that the install would cost more than it was worth (about $5500). (He said it was making nasty noises, and when they took off the belts to diagnose said noises, it was still making them, meaning they were coming from inside the engine. He said he'd open it up if I wanted, but at that point all he'd really be doing is performing an autopsy...). So as you all know I decided to turn this into a home project, and tried limping it home last night so I could work on it.

    I made it about 3/4 of a mile before it completely quit. Called AAA to take me the remaining 5 1/2. So, it's home!

    I was thinking of ordering the engine first, but I think I'll get started on the labor before I sink any money, just in case! Any advice in finding an engine is more than welcome.

    JPR10: while a ZHP sounds awesome, looks like that was only on 3-series, and from what I've read so far I'm better off sticking with the same model to easier track where things go.

    From what I can tell, first step is to take off the front end. Any suggestions on that are highly welcome, as well.

    My updates will be somewhat infrequent. My timing is to have it done by next Spring, though I'd like to do most of it this Fall while the weather is nice (still pretty darn hot here in Atlanta!). But the intent is to update any time I do anything before I forget it. Of course, you know what they say about the best intentions! Thanks again, all.

  15. #15
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    Well there ya go.

    Yeah. A ZHP swap / upgrade, again isn't really "first job never turned a wrench before" great idea. Oil pan swaps and whatnot. Good call to again, keep it simple.

    Re: sourcing the motor, obv it'll be easier for you to source a motor locally, although there are BMW specialist junkyards that will ship you one on a pallet. I can't say anything for Atlanta but find a forum member here or a local BMW enthusiast who can point you the right direction maybe. Who's from Atlanta? Or at least Georgia or nearby?

    Re: starting off... well... I'd get your mentor involved first but here's some things to start working on before you even pick up one tool...


    • Ensure the car is really in the best place for the long term project before you start. This should consider room to work around it, room to jack it up (and down again), getting the hoist into the engine bay, etc. Are you doing this in a garage or out in the driveway? Etc.
    • Map out a general plan of what you need to do. No don't just 'start taking the front off' yet... Make the list first. Having a whiteboard or at least a paper list of stuff to do to stay organized and not forget stuff and not waste time is a great idea. Pro shops for big projects will often keep a sheet of paper taped to the windshield of each car with a current list of what remains to be done next, and update that every time they put work in on it. For an old hand like me or Snotty (I was fixing my own mini-bike when I was 10, changed my first headgasket and did my first timing belt job when I was a teenager...) and its not too big a job and I know the parts/car concerned, sure I'll just wing it, but A. its always better to organize especially for a big job that's really 100 sub-tasks, and B. its REAL EASY for a n00b to get lost in the details of a job like this that will have dozens of little tasks and 'subjobs' to deal with. Very common to see a novice half take X apart then start half taking Y apart then slide around to some other Z bits, and then get the parts and bolts and stuff all mixed up and not really be 'anywhere' with the job except having made a big mess of things. Again, sitting down with a mentor/pro to make this 'master list' would be great,but indeed the guys right here can help draft this up too starting right now.
    • Again with the tools. Do you have a toolchest? I mean like a real rolling box stands on the floor toolchest. If you don't, make that part of your investment, ESPECIALLY if you are 'sharing the job' with the boys. The harbor freight ones are excellent, run you about $400.... you can get something cheaper from Lowe's or HD or Crapsman (Craftsman) - you'll get smaller and less quality for your buck, although the bottom line price will be lower. Either way go for something with more small shallow drawers vs the "3 giant deep drawers". You want to lay out each drawer with one or two categories of tools so they're easy to select and put back. Set the toolbox up with all your tools, label the drawers (not as necessary if you're a one man band but with other guys involved, pretty key). PUT THE TOOLS AWAY EVERY DAY in the right places (again esp if you're sharing the job with other people). Put the 'most used stuff' in the easiest to access drawers - usually guys will have socket sets and screwdrivers in drawers that are about counter height or little higher. Put the less used stuff in the further away drawers. If you have tons of room around the car, a rolling 'job cart' is another pro-tip extra item to get, as you use it to hold the tools you have out at any given time / during any particular section/task, and to temporarily hold parts you're pulling off. But that's more a 'nice to have'.
    • Again with the tools. If indeed you do probably just have what I'd consider 'Dad's TV repairman tools', I'm gonna suggest buying one of those 'mechanics tool sets' too. Even that won't include a torque wrench or some of the odds and ends but it'd tick a lot of the boxes. Lets get nitty gritty about what you have. I'm sure Snotty and others will have some things to add. We old timers can argue about whats on the "must have" vs. "nice to have" but here's a start from me at least... the stuff in italics being more 'nice to have'...
      • 1/4" and 3/8" and 1/2" metric socket sets including some extensions. You will need/want them all. Not some dumbass 'metrinch' stuff.
      • Hex-head socket set for the above.
      • Torx-head socket set for the above.
      • Metric combination wrenches.
      • Plier set including needle nose.
      • Proper quality screwdriver set.
      • 1/2" torque wrench at the very least. 3/8" can be helpful.
      • magnetic tool / part trays - several! (these are key!)
      • jackstands (4 ideal, 2 required)
      • floor jack
      • engine hoist (possible you can rent this when you get to that point of the job)
      • ratchet-head combination wrenches
      • set of picks - straight, hook, etc.
      • set of pry bars (in addition to being handy, this also keeps you from ruining your screwdrivers...)
      • bit driver set with various bits and drivers
      • engine stand... not real necessary if you're straight swapping but if you want to work on the new engine before it goes in this will be 1000x better than any alternative
      • ...other guys will have other stuff to add...

    • ​Prepare yourself for part labeling and sorting. There's a few ways to do this but for a real big job like this I use a lot of plastic bags, sharpie markers, and cardboard boxes. Bolts for any given 'assembly' go in a bag, that gets quickly and immediately labeled, then goes in a box that's for the parts for that assembly or at least for things from a related area... aka "airbox hardware" etc. For important complicated bolt part arrangements (ex: a waterpump will often have 5-6 bolts of all different lengths and putting the wrong ones in the wrong spot can be problematic...), flat sheets of cardboard punched with holes and diagrams or labels is a key old timer trick.
    • Prepare to TAKE PICTURES CONSTANTLY. Take pictures of each area before you take it apart so you see how it goes together and how it was laid out. I used to have a dedicated old digital camera for this now of course I just use my phone all the time.


    Once you've done all that prep, you'll be really ready to look at the list and start knocking stuff off...
    Last edited by geargrinder; 08-17-2017 at 10:08 AM. Reason: added the floor stuff...
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    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

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  16. #16
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    Wow John, you really nailed it on this post, it should be a sticky.

    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    Re: sourcing the motor, obv it'll be easier for you to source a motor locally, although there are BMW specialist junkyards that will ship you one on a pallet. I can't say anything for Atlanta but find a forum member here or a local BMW enthusiast who can point you the right direction maybe. Who's from Atlanta? Or at least Georgia or nearby?

    Many sources to consider. I particularly like to see the car that a motor came out of. My whole logic is that, if the whole car looks real clean, but got hit in the rear, so basically, the car was running the last time it was on the road. If the car was kept real clean, interior was spotless, my gut feeling will ease any apprehension of whether the engine was well maintained or not. If the engine bay is tidy, that was a plus. and then, there is mileage, low mileage, the engine is young, but you gotta wonder what has been replaced, above 110,000, now you at least know that the engine has gotten some attention. Low mileage? Sometimes they are not always that great, I would actually spend more money renewing stuff. Gaskets, seals, these things harden up with age. If you get an engine with a history of receipts, that is one hell of a bonus. I have gotten engines from specialist suppliers in the past, On one, I got lucky and had zero problems for over 25,000 miles, on another sourced from the same guys as the other, I started springing leaks left and right, that engine had less miles than the other one. So really it is hit or miss. Sourced from a friend? That is really the way to go, unless you have bad choices in what you call your friends.

    You should be able to get any M54B30 off of a good variety of BMW's that used the engine, '00-'06 E46's, '00-'03 E39's, '00-'02 E36/7 <<< Z3, '03-'05 E60's, '03-'06 E85's <<<Z4's, '03-'06 E83 <<<X3, and '00-'06 E53's <<< X5

    http://www.realoem.com/ <<< This is the Holy Grail. You need to look up parts numbers and oem prices, this is where you always look.
    http://fcpeuro.com/ <<<Then you can shop around wisely, lately, I've just been getting everything from FCPeuro.com what with their lifetime warranty on everything, amazingly, even brake pads, rotors, oil, OIL!!! and filters, everything!!! I just can't see myself looking in the mirror if I abused that right, but it is there, and they stand by it.


    Re: starting off... well... I'd get your mentor involved first but here's some things to start working on before you even pick up one tool...


    • Ensure the car is really in the best place for the long term project before you start. This should consider room to work around it, room to jack it up (and down again), getting the hoist into the engine bay, etc. Are you doing this in a garage or out in the driveway? Etc.
    • Map out a general plan of what you need to do. No don't just 'start taking the front off' yet... Make the list first. Having a whiteboard or at least a paper list of stuff to do to stay organized and not forget stuff and not waste time is a great idea. Pro shops for big projects will often keep a sheet of paper taped to the windshield of each car with a current list of what remains to be done next, and update that every time they put work in on it. For an old hand like me or Snotty (I was fixing my own mini-bike when I was 10, changed my first headgasket and did my first timing belt job when I was a teenager...) and its not too big a job and I know the parts/car concerned, sure I'll just wing it, but A. its always better to organize especially for a big job that's really 100 sub-tasks, and B. its REAL EASY for a n00b to get lost in the details of a job like this that will have dozens of little tasks and 'subjobs' to deal with. Very common to see a novice half take X apart then start half taking Y apart then slide around to some other Z bits, and then get the parts and bolts and stuff all mixed up and not really be 'anywhere' with the job except having made a big mess of things. Again, sitting down with a mentor/pro to make this 'master list' would be great,but indeed the guys right here can help draft this up too starting right now.
    • Again with the tools. Do you have a toolchest? I mean like a real rolling box stands on the floor toolchest. If you don't, make that part of your investment, ESPECIALLY if you are 'sharing the job' with the boys. The harbor freight ones are excellent, run you about $400.... you can get something cheaper from Lowe's or HD or Crapsman (Craftsman) - you'll get smaller and less quality for your buck, although the bottom line price will be lower. Either way go for something with more small shallow drawers vs the "3 giant deep drawers". You want to lay out each drawer with one or two categories of tools so they're easy to select and put back. Set the toolbox up with all your tools, label the drawers (not as necessary if you're a one man band but with other guys involved, pretty key). PUT THE TOOLS AWAY EVERY DAY in the right places (again esp if you're sharing the job with other people). Put the 'most used stuff' in the easiest to access drawers - usually guys will have socket sets and screwdrivers in drawers that are about counter height or little higher. Put the less used stuff in the further away drawers. If you have tons of room around the car, a rolling 'job cart' is another pro-tip extra item to get, as you use it to hold the tools you have out at any given time / during any particular section/task, and to temporarily hold parts you're pulling off. But that's more a 'nice to have'.
    • Again with the tools. If indeed you do probably just have what I'd consider 'Dad's TV repairman tools', I'm gonna suggest buying one of those 'mechanics tool sets' too. Even that won't include a torque wrench or some of the odds and ends but it'd tick a lot of the boxes. Lets get nitty gritty about what you have. I'm sure Snotty and others will have some things to add. We old timers can argue about whats on the "must have" vs. "nice to have" but here's a start from me at least... the stuff in italics being more 'nice to have'...
    • Putting tools away is very important. If you do not practice this, you will find yourself constantly spending more time looking for tools. Tools will walk, and they will disappear. At the end of a project, place them back in their proper locations, you will then know right away what is missing. Especially when you are not the only user of the tools. Instill this routine into your boys heads, it becomes a habit, once this becomes the norm, you will find yourself doing it with other things too.
      • 1/4" and 3/8" and 1/2" metric socket sets including some extensions. You will need/want them all. Not some dumbass 'metrinch' stuff. <<< A good 1/2 inch breaker bar always ends up coming handy. Yeah, a good full metric set is all you need, for SAE, you only need a few sockets and wrenches that do not convert, like 1/4", 3/8", I think 7/16ths is equivalent to 11mm, 1/2", and 5/8". Most metric sets stop at 19mm, but these would be in 1/2" drive, you are gonna want 21mm, 22mm 24mm, 26mm, 27mm, 30mm, 32mm, and if you usually work on motorcycles, ya gotta have a 36mm. For the 1/4" and 3/8" drive sockets up to 19mm, you definitely want a set that has both shallow and deep well sockets.
      • Hex-head socket set for the above.
      • Torx-head socket set for the above. <<< Definitely need a good set of Torx, better if it comes with the Security Torx bits too. These have a hollow hole in the center, but for BMW work, I don't think it is essential.
      • Metric combination wrenches.
      • Plier set including needle nose. <<< Also a few good sets of Vise Grips, both snub nose, and needle nose, as well as small and large Channel Locks
      • Proper quality screwdriver set.
      • 1/2" torque wrench at the very least. 3/8" can be helpful.
      • magnetic tool / part trays - several! (these are key!) <<< Harbor Freight the small trays are only $1.99, you can't have too many of them, and they have 2 or 3 other larger sizes too, I have a bunch of SnapOn ones, they are great, but pricey, the HF ones are good, but the glue they use between the magnets and the tray usually come apart, when they do, just epoxy them back together.
      • jackstands (4 ideal, 2 required)
      • floor jack <<< The 3 Ton low profile jack from Harbor Freight is an excellent deal, it actually works very well. It goes well under lowered E39's, and has the longest arm out of all of HF's jacks, so it gets cars pretty high up at maximum height. A great deal at $95 when it is on sale. It is always on sale.
      • engine hoist (possible you can rent this when you get to that point of the job)
      • ratchet-head combination wrenches <<< Every tool baring person has to have a good set of these!
      • set of picks - straight, hook, etc. <<< A set of pr!cks, I was gonna say, lot's of that here on the forum, I think I'm one of them.... Huh? Oh... picks...
      • set of pry bars (in addition to being handy, this also keeps you from ruining your screwdrivers...)
      • bit driver set with various bits and drivers
      • engine stand... not real necessary if you're straight swapping but if you want to work on the new engine before it goes in this will be 1000x better than any alternative
      • ...other guys will have other stuff to add... <<< BEER!!! Lots and lots of COLD BEER!!!

    • Prepare yourself for part labeling and sorting. There's a few ways to do this but for a real big job like this I use a lot of plastic bags, sharpie markers, and cardboard boxes. Bolts for any given 'assembly' go in a bag, that gets quickly and immediately labeled, then goes in a box that's for the parts for that assembly or at least for things from a related area... aka "airbox hardware" etc. For important complicated bolt part arrangements (ex: a waterpump will often have 5-6 bolts of all different lengths and putting the wrong ones in the wrong spot can be problematic...), flat sheets of cardboard punched with holes and diagrams or labels is a key old timer trick. <<< THIS!!!
    • Prepare to TAKE PICTURES CONSTANTLY. Take pictures of each area before you take it apart so you see how it goes together and how it was laid out. I used to have a dedicated old digital camera for this now of course I just use my phone all the time.

    Yep, I've seen so many people tear things apart, and have all the nuts and bolts in one big box... Buy a few boxes of good Ziplock bags, not the cheap ones, but the good stuff. I did this when I worked autobody, label them immediately. You put that bag down with nuts and bolts, have another one, you will forget which was for what. Label them meticulously, then place them neatly in a good tough box, the box will get very heavy


    Once you've done all that prep, you'll be really ready to look at the list and start knocking stuff off...
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    Atlanta, GA
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    My Cars
    2001 BMW 530i
    Ok guys - so I've ordered a cover so that I don't have an exposed car sitting in my driveway with the neighbors complaining. In the meantime, I've been doing research. For the record, talked with a few people familiar with cars, and the opinions are mixed: some are excited for me, some say I'm in over my head. We'll know soon enough!

    In terms of coming up with a plan, and someone's suggestion that it's like 100 little projects, I'd like to start there, on a macro roadmap level.

    It looks like the steps are (and yes, please fill in here!):
    Disconnect battery;
    Remove hood / put hood in "service mode" (thoughts on which is better?);
    Remove front bumper;
    Remove radiator;
    Remove compressor;
    Remove starter;
    Disconnect hoses (when I get to this step I'll want to break it down to a checklist of "hoses" to disconnect);
    Disconnect wiring (ditto);
    Disconnect transmission / driveshaft (is this right? Does gearbox stay attached to the engine or to the car?);
    Unscrew mounting bolts;
    Remove engine;
    Reverse to install!

    This is intended to be a high-level roadmap. Any other high-level steps I'm missing? The idea is to break this down to weekend-level jobs for a newbie like me.

    It's the transmission / work under the car that scares me. Every other step until that point seems like something I could do in a couple hours' time.

    Once I have the high-level list, I'll get going one item at a time (battery is already disconnected).

    Thanks again, all!

  18. #18
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    Posting from my phone, so can't write a lot of stuff, but I wish you were closer to Raleigh, NC because I would lend you a helping hand in swapping in another engine.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Few of your steps I think are unnecessary and can be cut down to a much simpler ones and less time consuming.



  19. #19
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Yeah. That list isn't very "normalized", some are small tasks, others are proper big "macro jobs" as you rightly say. Ex: "remove mounting bolts" is a totally final minor step in the whole engine pull.

    I mean "disconnect hoses" might cover a lotta stuff sorta but not really or not how you properly should go about thinking about it.

    Think about systems. It's more about macro "cooling system" which entails "drain coolant, remove rad hoses, remove heater hoses, remove radiator" tasks. Etc.

    And In terms of undressing the motor and engine bay there's a lotta stuff left out although there's perhaps choices and options. Like fuel system. You def need to disconn the fuel lines at very least. Do you strip the injector rail off on the car? Do you pull the intake manifold? What's on the replacement motor you're getting?

    Same goes for all the accessories / systems. Power steering pump, alternator, etc. All of them have something that needs disconnecting. But you may or may not need or want to remove them. Does starter really need to remove on the way out? AC compressor? The less you have to undress the better if your replacement is coming dressed, however if you need to take em off anyway it MAY make the pull easier and cleaner to get extra stuff off first.

    All in all I can tell you still need a mentor... Pref somebody who knows BMWs. But as you're working on that , try to think of things at least in "systems".
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
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    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

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  20. #20
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    BTW do you have the car in a paved place? you can get all around it? Sounds like you have to do it outside not in a garage? Not ideal but doable.

    A better option to your car cover is one of those portable car tents. Harbor Freight has one for like 2 bills.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  21. #21
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    2001 BMW 530i
    Thanks. Yeah, "remove mounting bolts" was said a bit tongue in cheek - by that point it'll be great to have to just make a few turns to get it out!

    I like the idea of thinking in terms of systems. In terms of undressing the engine, for now let's assume I would take off as little as possible just to get the thing out - I understand it's easier to add / remover parts when it's out, anyway. When I've got it out and have picked out a replacement, I'll see what I still need to remove. But for now I'll only take off what's necessary to get it out (or to make getting it out that much easier).

    It's currently in a side part of my driveway - plenty of room to get at it from any side necessary.

    So let's go through my list - most info I've seen is that it's MUCH easier to do this taking the front end off. So bumper, radiator, compressor. Or should I think of that as bumper / cooling system? Is that what most agree are the first couple of steps, or should I do something before that (or not even bother with those)?

  22. #22
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Well. Taking stuff off of the engine out of the car might be easier or harder .. depending. If you have an engine stand (in ADDITION To the hoist you need) sure, out is nice. But if it's lying on the ground ... Less so.

    Not sure why the focus on the compressor. If you pull the front off it doesn't involve the AC compressor at all aside from disconnecting the lines. Yes it MAY BE one of those things that are easier to pull before because it hangs out in the way and makes it hard to swing the motor around and drop it down, but it has no relation to the front cross member really.

    A far more significant exercise for the front cross member (front cross member is really a whole sub category) will be releasing wiring and electrical. I've not done it in this car but I'm guessing taking the headlights out will be a key first step for instance. Wiring to the radiator fan. Etc.
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  23. #23
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    Honestly, I don't think you have to pull the front end off the car and disconnect the a/c compressor at all. Using the engine hoist one should be able to lift the engine up and drag it out of the car. Getting to the transmission bellhousings bolts isn't that difficult either. You do have to remove the three torque converter bolts before you try separating the engine from the trans. I don't know if yours an automatic or not, but that's the first thing need to be done. If it's a manual then you just have to separate and pull the engine away from the trans. In the front end, just remove all of the radiator hoses and the radiator out of the car. This should give you plenty of room to work with the engine removal.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just unbolt the compressor's mounting bolts from the block and hang it to the side.



  24. #24
    Join Date
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    1987 325is, e34, Z3, e39
    I'm in the midst of an engine swap myself.

    Removing an M54 engine on an e39 isn't that big of a deal compared to some cars. You get excellent access from the front. You can leave the A/C and power steering system behind, saving time and money on refilling. You can pull the engine with the exhaust manifold mounted, which is a PITA to remove otherwise. Pretty much every connection has a quick disconnect of some sort.

    It's the lead-up that is annoying. I hate dropping the exhaust by myself, and removing the driveshaft bolts is no fun.

    The only special tools you'll need are an engine hoist/crane, best borrowed from a friend, and perhaps a load leveler ($40 at Harbor Freight).

    The regular BMW tools are a 32mm (1-1/4") fan clutch wrench and perhaps a holder
    The common tools are
    8, 10, 11, 13, 16, 17, 18, 19, 22mm regular sockets
    10, 11, 13, 14 and 15mm medium or deep sockets
    10, 13, 16, 18, 19mm wrenches
    E10, E12 and E14 "reverse-Torx" sockets
    T25, T27 and T50 Torx drivers
    4mm hex driver
    4-in-1 screwdriver with 8mm and 1/4" nut driver
    Usual set of ratchets and short/medium extensions

    The 22mm is used on the crank nut to turn to line up bolts for removal. A 7/8" will substitute.
    A 3/4" wrench will substitute for the 19mm. I think that only the VANOS hose needs 19mm.

    Some of these tools are actually for later disassembly, but you should have them "just in case".

    Pull the engine nearly complete, with intake manifold and exhaust manifold still attached. Just take off the two plastic covers. You'll need the load leveler or a piece of lumber to spread the chain so that it doesn't press too hard against the intake manifold. Remove the power steering reservoir (two bolts) and pump (two long bolts) and you won't have to open that system. The A/C compressor can similarly be unbolted and left behind suspend to the body so you don't have to recharge.

    I borrowed an engine crane. The only special tool I bought was the load leveler. The Harbor Freight "2 ton" load leveler includes two chains for $32 after coupon, and it will go to a friend for future use, so it seemed a good deal. I should have picked up a pack of quick links at the same time. Bolts through the lifting eyes did work, but they won't be useful afterwards.

    If you want to "warm up" for the job without an immediate commitment, try taking off the problem fasteners. The fan nut is notorious for being either trivial or very hard, but you've probably done it before. The four exhaust downpipe to muffler fasteners are the other problem area. You'll need a good 14mm deep socket (perhaps 15mm on older cars). Don't use an impact, and don't snap the Inconel studs. Once you have those off, you are past the risky part. If you put the fasteners back on, use high temp (e.g. copper) anti-seize.

    The next "warm up" is removing the bumper and radiator support. It's just a few small fasteners, and two T50 bolts for the bumper. Disconnect the foglights and washer hose as it's coming off. I do it alone, but it's far easier with help. The radiator support is a bunch of electrical connections at the headlights and fan, a few misc fasteners, and the three 13mm nuts on each bumper shock. Leave the 8mm ones alone, and pull the support out with the headlights attached. Now put it back together with only one 13mm nut on each side and the bumper just slid in place so that it looks assembled, but you can take it apart in a minute when it's time to roll up the crane.

    The only work under the car is taking the exhaust system down (super annoying because it's heavy, but it's only a handful of 13mm fasteners), disconnecting the transmission, and loosening the transmission mount nuts and unbolting the driveshaft at the transmission. I think the easiest way is to support the rear of the transmission (I use a bottle jack), completely remove the cross plate (13mm fasteners), unbolt the driveshaft at the flex disk to transmission interface, but leave a single bolt and nut on one turn to hold it up. Then reinstall the support plate with one bolt on each side and finish removing that last driveshaft bolt. When you pull the transmission the driveshaft will just drop down onto the support plate.

    Don't forget to disconnect the shift cable (13mm and 16mm wrench) and battery cable to body (13mm deep socket), while you are under the car.

    Disconnecting everything else is surprisingly easy.

    The coolant hoses have quick disconnects. If you have the radiator support off, you can pull the radiator and shroud as one assembly, disconnecting hoses at the thermostat and heater hoses under the air box. (Wow! That's how it's done! I've always spent an hour messing with the shroud clips from above and below.)

    There are only two vacuum hose connections. The Evap system has a unique quick connect. The fuel line has a push-in quick connect. The throttle is electronic, so there is no throttle cable. The oxygen sensors stay on the exhaust, but disconnect them at their regular connectors. Don't bother trying to unbolt the A/C compressor until the engine has been lifted a bit, and then it's easy (learned the hard way). With the compressor out of the way the ground cable from body to engine mount is easy to reach.

    The electrical harness is also pretty easy. Some people take out the whole ECU frame with the engine. I prefer to disconnect and leave the ECU boxes behind. Unclip the six coil connections and fold that toward the fender. Remove the broken-apart firewall panel (four quarter-turn fasteners) and follow that cable to the E-box. It enters at the rear, separate from the other cables. Free that from the three or four connectors and fold it over the engine. The rest of the wiring (oxygen sensors and transmission control) is simply unclipped as the engine comes out. Trying to do it early is very difficult. Waiting until the engine is partially out makes it trivial.

    Note that the hood has a service position. You pop off the hood shocks, lift it to the full vertical position, and insert bolts into the now-aligned holes. One side is threaded, but I don't recall which bolts I used. This is the only task that definitely needs two people.
    Last edited by djb2; 09-10-2017 at 02:26 PM.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
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    2001 BMW 530i
    Wow. LOTS of good information. In those last two posts in particular - wish I had a better idea of which parts all of those are!

    Mine's an automatic, for the record.

    Sounds like I start with front bumper and radiator support (a few videos I saw took the compressor out, too, but happy to leave that in if not necessary), then fan but and exhaust fasteners. Have a few things planned for Labor Day weekend, but will try and squeeze in some time to get moving on these. Wish me luck!

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