Member
My oil return tap on the pan and the turbo sit very close together. This is causing a fitment issue. Any ideas as to what to try from here? (Also have a braided line but that won't do me any good obviously) This hose kinks because of the angle but I think I might be able to get away with using a softer hose. Any suggestions? There's no way to clock the turbo any further as this is the only way it fits bottom mount.
Last edited by Mnp3000; 08-14-2017 at 11:30 PM.
Member
Can you tap a new bung in the pan? Also pictures of the situation tend to help.
Last edited by jeffkniseley; 08-15-2017 at 07:06 AM.
Member
You could use the CCV tube on the side of the dipstick and run a mounted scavenge pump on the bottom of the car somewhere.
Scavenge pump will pull oil back into pan via dipstick tube.
This is what I did and it works very well. Its easier than tapping oil pan.
If you want specific details on how to do it PM me.
Member
As mentioned, some have returned to the oil drain plug. Some have drilled and tapped for a bigger fitting. I would try this. It can be done on the car.
Scavenge pump is extra work and expense and adds more lines to leak and a pump failure leaves you stranded. I ran one for 6 years and it worked with only occasional minor leak issues.
Member
What manifold and turbo? I returned mine to the oil drain plug but I tapped it out to 1/2npt. I then have a 1/2npt to -10 fitting screwed into pan. I had to grind around the hole to allow the fitting to screw in. I am putting my car up this afternoon. I will take a few pics.
drilling the drain plug is a delicate procedure, there is a passage or built up metal inside there that you need to go through once you get deeper.
Last edited by vr6dubny; 08-15-2017 at 10:56 AM.
Member
I cannot say if this is a good long term solution. Car has only been together for 400 miles. However at least this can give you an idea of what you may be able to do. You may want to route water line over the turbo for return rather than under, or return to the throttle body hoses rather than the block plug. As for the oil return I have had no smoking or oil issues thus far. (knock on wood) Other people have done it before me, though some swear it is the worst possible option.
Cantry Member
Put a straight pipe to flare fitting out of the turbo and get a longer hose.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Member
Big bulky connectors look fancy but are expensive and take up a lot of valuable real estate that might be better off left as flexible hose.
Member
so eliminate the 45 off the turbo return flange. Run a straight to the push to connect fitting and a longer hose?Originally Posted by chikinhed
I originally had a soft line with less bulky fittings made with turbo drain clocked towards the drain plug. i failed to realize the 1 turbo mani stud would interfere with the oil feed line, not allowing me to get the nut on, or tighten it. So this is the setup I ended up with after reclocking the turbo.
thanks for the feedback, i will look into getting more soft line rather than the bulky fittings in my return.
Cantry Member
You are using hose with clamps anyway so you may as well get rid of the flared fittings and just use barbed fittings so that you can use a longer hose utilizing a bigger bend radius to prevent kinking.
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Member
The clamps are just there because I figured extra protection wouldn't be a bad thing. The fittings are Aeroquip Socketless which don't require any clamps. But i understand what you are getting at with the kink...I don't like it either.
Member
You do want an easy release fitting at the oil drain plug since you don't want to pull a hose off a barbed fitting to change the oil.
Member
I cannot say if this is a good long term solution. Car has only been together for 400 miles. However at least this can give you an idea of what you may be able to do. You may want to route water line over the turbo for return rather than under, or return to the throttle body hoses rather than the block plug. As for the oil return I have had no smoking or oil issues thus far. (knock on wood) Other people have done it before me, though some swear it is the worst possible option.
Do you have an update on if this worked out? using the OEM Drain plug
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