2002 330ci 5 speed. I can hardly take off when giving it less than 1200 or 1500 rpm. Otherwise, motor bogs down, something rattles under hood, and feels like it's going to stall. Rpm drops dramatically as well.
Symptom is much worse when the A.C. is running.
It's also hard to control the throttle input any thoughts on what my problem might be?
+2: Read the codes and look for a vacuum leak. Seems the leak is tiresomely common on injected bimmers which have accumulated some age and experience.
Charlie
Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.
Before you remove the compressor, just take the belt off to confirm thats the problem.
The first step in diagnosing any drivability issue is to scan the engine computer (DME in BMWeze) for codes. The SES light is on only when an emissions related code is present. I'm betting you have vacuum leaks.
The symptoms are similar to a car with vanos seals going out. or are already leaking. Using AC amplifies the condition. This problem will also set a camshaft fault, and a few others that dont seem to go away.
Level 1 Certified BMW tech.
Thanks, turbo. My recent research has been pointing me in that direction, but wanted a little bit of reassurance before taking on a 4-6 hour job.
I'll order the seals. Will order new spark plugs as well while I'm in there.
Over the past few days been trying to chase down another issue, I think my vanos solenoid is leaking, or exhaust cps is leaking oil. Something is leaking into my vanos exhaust solenoid connection and it's full of oil down there in the connector.
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DIY, the seal change takes about 4-5 hours start to finish the first time. It will be unreal how much of a difference it makes in the powerband.
Wanted to share my recent experience with drivability and shifting issues I was having. Gear changes, especially 1st to 2nd would be clunky and reverse would feel like it was about to stall. I started to suspect the clutch. After replacing the serpentine belt on my fiancé's Escape, which resolved a ticking AC compressor and improved shifting (it is a stick), I thought to change mine. I used the Continental Elite Belt on both Escape and my 01 330ci. I had about 60k on my old belt and there was no visible cracks or splits but compared to the new belt, it was stretched out. To my surprise this got rid of my shifting issues and the vehicle drives like normal.
Not saying that this will definitely fix your issue but if you have not changed your belt in 40k or so I would highly recommend it and it is cheap and easy job to do. Hope this helps
Not sure how old my belt is. Will keep this in mind. Just finished the grueling job of changing the vanos seals. Car seems to have better throttle ressponse, but the main problem persists.
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I don't want to keep throwing parts at it. I'm at the point of deciding to get a diagnosis from an Indy shop.
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Ended up replacing my crank case valve ventilation system, did not help. Though the car drives a little smoother now.
I've given up on this and will just adjust my driving style.
I'm still trying to rack down the rattle. It sounds a bit like in this video: https://youtu.be/3-h8hGmup0k
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belt pulleys or ac compressor clutch.
A very quick way to confirm any vacuum leakage...wave a propane torch...un-lit of course...while the engine is running. If any of the many vacumm hoses are sucking air, the propane will cause a jump UP in rpm.
Last edited by Eaglesail; 09-21-2017 at 04:53 PM.
Definitely check your DISA for rattle.If it is rattling, remove and replace ASAP, as a loose pin will cause severe damage.
Also I would remove and clean IACV, just to rule it out. Here is a diagram-#7 DISA,#9 Idle Valve:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_2879
I just took off the accessory drive belt. The car is able to take off MUCH more smoothly now. Also no rattle!
Drove it around the block and bakc and forth in the driveway for a few minutes.
I guess now I have to figure which accessory is the culprit. Alternator, water pump, or PS pump. I have no history on this car. The water pump looks like a URO... That's aftermarket right?
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I've only had the car since June. I don't believe it has any modifications. I'm going to replace the water pump tomorrow and pray that it fixes it. It would be amazing to have the car running properly. Being ocd it really bothers me to have this issue. If I was more financially stable I'd go lease a new 440i
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It was the water pump. Problem solved!
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