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Thread: Rear suspension guru needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Rear suspension guru needed

    Perhaps I'm in denial, but I am hoping for a relatively easy fix for my rear wheel steering system. No, I don't have a euro CSi, so therein lies my problem. The left rear wheel likes to go off for a bit of a wander. The right wheel seems tight, but after 125,000 miles, who knows? I ate a set of tires in 9,000 miles--both worn evenly bald. Both bearings seem tight. I've figured out two things. First, I don't know how to evaluate bushings to tell if they are worn vs. worn out. Second, there are a crap ton of bushings on that rear end. I cringe at having to replace them all. But perhaps I am destined to. I can tell that bushing 23 is totally kaput because the center pin moves in and out. But that is not the load it was designed to carry. So which bushing failed to allow the pin on 23 to slide in and out? How do you put torque on the rear suspension to see what flexes but should not? I've reached the limit of manual pushing and pulling (I pooed a little when I rocked a jack stand). And is all this evaluating in vain--do I have to drop the carrier anyway and get a set of special bushing presses, meaning I might as well change bushings by the dozen? Thanks.

    Brett







































































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  2. #2
    Join Date
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    bmw 850
    I am not a guru but i can tell you i changed all the bushings in the back at 70000 miles. I Really needed to change 4 out of the lot but its silly to just change the ones that need changing. Its a different car after that. As far as 23, its a spherical bearing and if the center tube is moving in and out it is long gone. At the mileage you have i would change them all and cross them off your list.

  3. #3
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    You are overdue for a rear suspension rebuild. These bushings not only fail with mileage, they fail with age. I replaced all of my original bushings several years ago and the car is super tight now - a real joy to drive (which it already was previously, only now it is 100x better). You will need to get a hold of WOKKE for the upper rear wishbones, as this part only comes with the bushing. Stay away from the polyurethane crap, unless you want to do this work over again in the not to distant future.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ltbrett View Post
    I can tell that bushing 23 is totally kaput because the center pin moves in and out.
    You'll need a special tool to replace that ball joint on the car although I have seen it done with hardware from Home Depot. It's a lot easier using a hydraulic press but you'll need to remove the hub and getting the drive shaft out can be a bitch. You shouldn't need to drop the subframe. I've never seen one of these get so bad that the center pin moves in/out.

    A shop will use a pry bar to evaluate your bushings.
    Last edited by BMSman; 08-14-2017 at 09:38 PM.

  5. #5
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    It is way easier to drop the complete carrier (4 bolts). You need to make sure to loosen ALL the nuts to every ball joint and fastener before you drop the subframe. Great opportunity to install a rear CSi swaybar (big difference in handling).
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    It is way easier to drop the complete carrier (4 bolts). You need to make sure to loosen ALL the nuts to every ball joint and fastener before you drop the subframe. Great opportunity to install a rear CSi swaybar (big difference in handling).
    +8. You can tackle everything needed with it out of the car in one shot.
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  7. #7
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    What are the difference pros/cons between going with OEM rubber and the spherical bearings from wokke?

  8. #8
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    Better handling at the expense of some ride comfort. The Wokke bits will no doubt last much longer.
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  9. #9
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    Looks like I was in denial after all. I knew the right answer would be to just drop the carrier and do them all, but crap, $2000 worth of bushings? Gold-plated bushings?! I should have gone into the busing business.

    Brett

  10. #10
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    When I did mine, I purchased the bushings from AutohausAZ, as well as my local Foreign Car Parts store - no where near $2000.
    Also, you might want to take all of the fasteners, clean them and then have them yellow zinc plated (costs about $35 - much cheaper than replacing with new), to put the corrosion protection back on them.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    850i, '76 2002, '76 530
    I am been searching this site, all the DIYs, and Timm's site, but I cannot find the torque values for any of the suspension components on the front or rear of the car. Does anyone have a list or can post a link? Thanks,

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    I just found the link to the BMW workshop manual with torque settings: https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/m...ex_NV_S_TT.htm

    And, according to Dragon850, 'goodandtight' should work!

    Also found several links that Taylor provided.
    Last edited by JDP530; 04-16-2018 at 11:43 PM.

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