How are people securing their Planted floor mounts in their cars?
I'm short (5' 7") and needed to space up my floor mount up .75" to get enough height to be comfortable. However, I still found that I had to put a washer under the rear seat bolt as I couldn't torque the bolt down enough. I see that they are tapered and I was worried about ruining the threads if I cranked down too hard. Now, I feel the bracket moving a little since the serrated bolt head isn't touching the bracket itself.
Is it fine to replace the tapered bolt with a shorter one of the same thread? Then use one serrated washer instead of 2 like I'm currently using?
Last edited by MINIz guy; 08-13-2017 at 08:02 PM.
Wish I could help you. I'm 5'10" and my planted mount is sooooo awesome.
Have you called Planted to discuss shimming?
BryDog
www.e46bmw.com
No I haven't called Planted yet for advice.
How are you mounting your bracket to your car? Basically wondering how all the E36 guys are doing it and if they are using different hardware
I didn't think the seat rail-to-body attach bolts were tappered. Got photos
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I'll take some after work. Maybe I'm remembering wrong
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I think my threads are messed up. You can see I have a 1/4" plate and then a ~1/4" bushing spacing the bracket up. Then I have a washer under the bolt head which I think is causing my problem. I just know I couldn't tighten much more than this. Will remove more tonight to figure it out
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Definitely purchase (grade 8 or better) bolts longer than stock with the added length equivalent to the added spacer and washer.
Carefully chase those holes with a tap to clean up any crossed threading.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 08-14-2017 at 07:29 PM.
Ok so they aren't tapered like NPT threads like I thought. They are kinda chewed up so I hope I didn't damage the holes. Slapping a car together in a rush is never good...
These are the serrations I was talking about. Does my new bolt need them?
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serrations just act as a lock-washer. If the new bolt doesn't have them just throw in a lock-washer.
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the unthreaded front of the bolt is to keep people from cross-threading by installing crooked. Not necessary either. It does help with getting it into the threaded hole straight
That's easy enough. I decided to remove the small bushing too. I made thicker seat cushions which really made up all the difference (3" thick instead of 1.5") so I sit comfortably now.
I guess that the threads got ripped up because it wasn't in all the way when I started torquing them down. The holes look alright. Need to borrow a thread chaser from work to clean them up. Otherwise, I think I'm clear!
Lock washers are used on wheelbarrows. Blue Loctite and a quality washer if you need to disperse the load.
Don
I ended up buying serrated flange hex bolts. They are fully threaded so I can crank them down without hitting the smooth sections up top. The stock bolts don't have enough thread up top is what I found
Am I missing something? What seat are you mounting? There should be some height choices with the brackets right? I use Kirkey road race and they made me custom mounts based on my drawings and specs in about a week.
ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"
I maxed out the brackets and they were still too low.
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