No Start/ No Crank 1997 328is Issue

[Ck223]

Recently my 97 328is e36 has been having problems starting. It went from starting every couple of tries, to taking 20-30 times of turning the key to start. To not budging anymore.
When turning the key to on, lights come on, headlights, windows, sunroof all work no problem. When trying to turn key to start the car a sound that sounds like the fuel pump turns on for a second then goes away. Also a single click sound goes off in the engine bay.
Had autozone check battery and the voltage was 12.7. As well as tried to jump car, nothing.
Checked fuses, none looked blown.
When getting the car to start one of the times, the mpg was 5mpg lower than what it normally is. Not sure if this had anything to do with the problem
Once car is started it runs no problem, starting is the only problem.
Also had these codes in the past month but cleared them: P1188, P0170, P0455
Car is manual and clutch is always depressed as well as car in neutral when trying to start
Any help is much appreciated.

[Eric93se]

Sounds like your starter is ruined. Just for future referrence, if you car does not start after try to crank a total of around 4 tries, you should then stop trying to start the engine and figure out whats wrong or let the starter cool off (because you will ruin the starter).

If your car is a stick, then you can try to bump start the car to confirm it is the starter at fault. Your lower mpg could be due to the starter being stuck in the engaged position.

[Ck223]

Sounds like your starter is ruined. Just for future referrence, if you car does not start after try to crank a total of around 4 tries, you should then stop trying to start the engine and figure out whats wrong or let the starter cool off (because you will ruin the starter).

If your car is a stick, then you can try to bump start the car to confirm it is the starter at fault. Your lower mpg could be due to the starter being stuck in the engaged position.

If I was able to bump start the car would that mean the starter is fried?
Also if I hit the starter with a hammer/tool would it working after prove it is the starter at fault?
I would just like to make sure the problem is indeed the starter because it is a real annoying part to get to in this car and is not the cheapest. Thanks

[MIKYZZ4]

If it starts easily with a push from a strong friend, that indicates a fault in starter circuit.
You can hit the starter solenoid with a hammer whilst someone simultaneously turns the ignition,
to test for a failing starter solenoid.
You can always remove starter and have it bench tested.

[Ck223]

Will try to bump start soon. I just would like to avoid taking out the starter to test it because it will take a lot of time to take out and put back in.

[MIKYZZ4]

Let's get our phrases straight, please.
Bump start=jump start with connected battery cables.
Push start= vehicle rolling down the road as you release the clutch.

Try starting with both clutch and brake pedals depressed, while attempting to start with key.

[Ck223]

Let's get our phrases straight, please.
Bump start=jump start with connected battery cables.
Push start= vehicle rolling down the road as you release the clutch.

Try starting with both clutch and brake pedals depressed, while attempting to start with key.

That is already how I try to start the car. Just recently have been having problems with it not cranking. Was thinking it could be the key or ews system. The push start should help rule the starter out along with the key

[MIKYZZ4]

If it starts easily with a push from a strong friend, that indicates a fault in starter circuit.
You can hit the starter solenoid with a hammer whilst someone simultaneously turns the ignition,
to test for a failing starter solenoid.
You can always remove starter and have it bench tested.

Post back with results from first two tests, if no change - then have the starter failure confirmed by bench testing.

[Ck223]

Ok just push started the car and it started no problem.

[Ck223]

Ok just push started the car and it started no problem.

Also the car started the third try after driving after push starting it. And then never worked after that

[MIKYZZ4]

You can try the hammer test if you want to confirm,
but I would just go ahead and replace the starter.

[JDStrickland]

Recently my 97 328is e36 has been having problems starting. It went from starting every couple of tries, to taking 20-30 times of turning the key to start. To not budging anymore.
When turning the key to on, lights come on, headlights, windows, sunroof all work no problem. When trying to turn key to start the car a sound that sounds like the fuel pump turns on for a second then goes away. Also a single click sound goes off in the engine bay.
Had autozone check battery and the voltage was 12.7. As well as tried to jump car, nothing.
Checked fuses, none looked blown.
When getting the car to start one of the times, the mpg was 5mpg lower than what it normally is. Not sure if this had anything to do with the problem
Once car is started it runs no problem, starting is the only problem.
Also had these codes in the past month but cleared them: P1188, P0170, P0455
Car is manual and clutch is always depressed as well as car in neutral when trying to start
Any help is much appreciated.

P1188 and P0170 are the same thing. P0nnn is a BMW specific code, P1nnn is a generic code, both of them are the same thing in this case, FUEL TRIM/CONTROL MALFUNCTION, BANK1.

P04nn is a code that has to do with the Evaporative Emissions Control System.

I'd not expect a failure to start to come from having any of these codes. Especially since the failure is that the starter motor doesn't even turn on.

The key puts a low current signal on a wire that turns on a solenoid inside of the starter that closes contacts that puts high current to the starter motor to make it turn and to push the starter gear into the flywheel. You seem to be describing either the signal from the ignition switch is going/gone away, or the solenoid in the starter has failed. Of these two, the starter going bad is way closer to the top of the list of usual suspects than the ignition switch.

If I am correct, you should be able to park the car on a hill so it will roll and you can dump the clutch to get it going. My experience is that 2nd gear works best.

[Ck223]

Ok awesome. I also noticed my key becomes hot after driving the car for 20-30 minutes or constantly trying to start the car. Would this have anything to do with the ignition switch? Also if I don't put the key in all the way I get the known e36 spinning key.
Thanks

[Ck223]

The click that is heard when trying to start the car is the quietest sound from the engine bay and is only heard after I hold the key in the ignition for 2 seconds. I'm thinking the starter may not be the problem

- - - Updated - - -

The brake is also very hard to push when trying to start the car. Could this possibly be a key/ews issue? Even though the car was able to be push started?

[MIKYZZ4]

You can try the hammer test if you want to confirm,
but I would just go ahead and replace the starter.

Have you confirmed? Have someone hit it while it clicks!
If you'd rather, purchase and replace the starter, and be done with it!

[Ck223]

Have you confirmed? Have someone hit it while it clicks!
If you'd rather, purchase and replace the starter, and be done with it!

It doesn't click mutiple times, only once. When I hit it a couple of times it started after the third key start try. But that was not someone hitting while turning ignition

[coastcanuck]

I would also check your starter relay. And by check, just spend the $6 for a new one, any generic 4 prong 30A relay should work. You can also check for power to the starter relay itself when the ignition is turned with a multimeter. That should help you narrow down to the ignition or starter/relay. My parents car (non E36) would refuse to crank at all at time, replaced the starter, thought I solved the problem. Few months later it won't crank at all no matter what. One $6 4 pin relay later and it works great. Same car ripped its subframe out and sat for 2 months while I replaced it (working full time). Had issues starting even with jumper cables, sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. Swapped in a new relay and no more issues. Hope this helps you!

[MIKYZZ4]

It doesn't click mutiple times, only once. When I hit it a couple of times it started after the third key start try. But that was not someone hitting while turning ignition

It must be done simultaneously, or it's null and void, useless.
Try the relay coastcanuck, recommended, if no change,
Remove-bench test-replace starter if test fails.
You have the procedures, your just not following them, I'm done.

[Ck223]

I would also check your starter relay. And by check, just spend the $6 for a new one, any generic 4 prong 30A relay should work. You can also check for power to the starter relay itself when the ignition is turned with a multimeter. That should help you narrow down to the ignition or starter/relay. My parents car (non E36) would refuse to crank at all at time, replaced the starter, thought I solved the problem. Few months later it won't crank at all no matter what. One $6 4 pin relay later and it works great. Same car ripped its subframe out and sat for 2 months while I replaced it (working full time). Had issues starting even with jumper cables, sometimes it would, sometimes it wouldn't. Swapped in a new relay and no more issues. Hope this helps you!

Only e36's that are pre 1996 come with a starter relay. My car doesn't have one. Thanks for the suggestion though. I will test the starter right now

[Ck223]

Tried hitting hammer while a friend tried to turn on the car, didn't make a difference. I got the car to start by yet again continuously trying to Start the car. While trying the key was hot again. Could this be the ignition switch clutch switch that only allows the car to start when clutch is pushed is broken? I also noticed that there is feedback from the ignition to the key when it actually started, which doesn't occur when it doesn't start the car.

[MIKYZZ4]

Ok, let's look for the yellow/black wire at the starter solenoid,
check voltage at the terminal before inserting key in ignition,
and check voltage again while turning key to start.

[coastcanuck]

Ok, let's look for the yellow/black wire at the starter solenoid, check voltage at the terminal before inserting key in ignition, and check voltage again while turning key to start.

what this guy said ^ need to diagnose which part/where in the circuit the failure is.

[chrisshara]

I bet you have a bad key. And the EWS is blocking voltage from reaching the starter. Do you have a spare key of any kind that you can try ? And I would replace that ignition lock cylinder before it only spins 360 deg. Once it gets to that point, you have no choice but to replace both the steering column lock and the lock cylinder.

[Ck223]

I bet you have a bad key. And the EWS is blocking voltage from reaching the starter. Do you have a spare key of any kind that you can try ? And I would replace that ignition lock cylinder before it only spins 360 deg. Once it gets to that point, you have no choice but to replace both the steering column lock and the lock cylinder.

That is what I was thinking, and no spare key. I will definitely take a look at the ignition lock cyclinder as well

[spyderg0d]

Or the starter is bad and sucking ALOT of power thus resulting in a low voltage to the oxygen sensors and resulting in a misread and lean codes.. ... .