Another 4HP22 Tranmission question

[nordictom]

So, the Daughters 1989 735il (4HP22) won't move in any forward gear, but does move in reverse. My search for info leads to the A Clutch. The trans only has approx. 2000 miles since it was rebuilt. It was driving fine one day & the next it won't move

The oil is clean & not burnt smelling. the fluid level is a hair overfull at temp.

Any one have any insight?


Thanks,

NT

[shogun]

Do you see gears and mode in the cluster shown?
No forward points to A-clutch, but then the ATF would smell burnt and would be dark. So it might be something easier to fix.
Did you check the shift lever on the side of the gear? Maybe it was not tightened enough to the cable and the cable slipped?
Was the trans installed by a shop or DIY?
Was the torque converter correctly installed?
some general info http://www.europeantransmissions.com...MWtechinfo.htm

[nordictom]

Do you see gears and mode in the cluster shown? yes
No forward points to A-clutch, but then the ATF would smell burnt and would be dark. So it might be something easier to fix.
Did you check the shift lever on the side of the gear? Yes Maybe it was not tightened enough to the cable and the cable slipped? Seems to be engaging each detent
Was the trans installed by a shop or DIY? Rebuilt by a indy shop, installed by me
Was the torque converter correctly installed? yes, the trans was working great one day & the next, no forward
some general info http://www.europeantransmissions.com...MWtechinfo.htm

Thanks for the link!

NT

[whiskychaser]

You may well be right and it is a blown A clutch. But I'd try a couple of things:
Put the car in park then disconnect the shift cable at the tranny end. With the engine running and your assistant's foot firmly on the brake, push the lever on the side of the tranny fully forward (park). Make sure the shaft is actually turning with the lever and count the clicks back until you hit 'D'. If it doesn't move, try it is 3,2 and 1. If still no go, connect the cable again, adjust it if needed and try ditching the power to the TCM. That will give you all the ATF pressure the tranny can muster. If it doesn't move then, it is time to drop the pan. You might just have a broken manual shift valve. Even though it is the same part, they tend to go more on the 5HP than the 4HP but it is a cheap and relatively easy fix so I wouldn't rule it out. A bit of swarf on the magnets is probably fine. If you have some irregular shaped chunks of metal scattered about, the drum has probably had it.

[nordictom]

Thanks Whiskychaser & Shogun!

I will check out the trans, probably have to wait until Sat. I will update.

NT

[shogun]

shift valve aka selector valve : the name is a bit confusing, it is this part ist is a rod for the shifting inside the valve body, here for the 5HP versions http://www.thectsc.com/products/sele...alve-84-3.html
sample, hope the pic works http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...MDkzOQ==/?ref=

Easy to replace, when you remove the trans pan and lower the valve body

[nordictom]

Thanks!

[nordictom]

Well I have a chance to try & diagnose the trans issue today.

How do you disconnect power to the TCM (Trans Control Module?) If it is the TCM, above the door electrics unit, How can you get it out?

Thanks,
NT

[shogun]

You have to remove the speaker in the footwell. See section 64 -61/1 https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/481en/index.htm

[nordictom]

Thanks Shogun.

Here's a phot of the pan. the small aluminum pieces are approx. 3/32" in dia. lots of alum. flakes. 20170818_103736.jpg

[shogun]

Have seen worse, but there is something going on in the trans. Do not know how much experience you have, but I would disassemble the valve body, clean it, especially the filter in front of the pressure valve, then make a complete flush of the system and then one would know if it helps or not. Usually when you disassemble the valve body on a 4HP22 or 4HP24, the paper gasket between the plates has to be replaced, as it is baked on and usually breaks when disassembling the valve body, this is not so the case of the 5HP transmissions.
Of course all that costs $$, also the trans fluid for flushing, so the other opetion would be a reman 4HP22 + a reman torque converter.
What is your indy shop saying? Still under warranty?

[whiskychaser]

To say it has only done 2K miles, there appears to be more swarf on the magnets than you would expect. Of more concern is all the aluminium. Clutches do not contain that but the drum and housing do. It looks like something has been grinding away at it. If I had to guess, I'd say there may be a broken cup spring in there. That might allow the clutch to rotate instead of holding and bits of the spring could be grinding the drum. I would not do any more work on it for now but as Shogun suggests, I would be having a word with the people who refurbished the trans.

[nordictom]

Thanks guy's.
I left a few messages for the indy shop. I finally got a hold of them, late yesterday. They had a guy do the transmissions in house. Well he decided to move on, so they don't want to take care of it. I searched my cell phone memory, found a number that wasn't normal. Gave it a call & it was the trans guy. He's not doing transmissions any more, sort of retired. He is going to find someone to take care of it for me, so he say's.
We will see what happens in the next few days.

Thanks again,

NT

[Sansouci]

Seems to me, you paid the shop, not the subcontractor/employee. So it would be the shop's obligation (if there was a firm, written warranty) to make it right either through re-work or a refund. Otherwise you are chasing phantoms. After you follow Shogun's suggestion to clean the valve body and the trans is still inoperable, your next best bet is to find a reliable ZF rebuilder. Only two I know are in the East: European Transmissions in Cumming GA and Eriksson Industries in Old Saybrook CT. But there has to be someone in Cali.
--Ken