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Thread: Control Pressure Regulator questions and pressure interpretation assistance

  1. #1
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    Control Pressure Regulator questions and pressure interpretation assistance

    Good afternoon all.
    I have been tracking down my rough idling and running issue for a while.
    Here is what I have done (summary from a previous thread).
    Checked for vacuum line leaks- none.
    Checked injectors- all working well and distributing same amount of fuel (within 10% of each other).
    Found faulty spark plug wire. Have replaced.
    Cleaned distributor/rotor.
    Advanced the timing (very helpful).
    Refined A/F mixture using O2 sensor- might still be an issue as the readings have become erratic, but it is running better.

    Running much better, but I still am experiencing roughness at lower rpms and when I adjust the throttle too abruptly.

    Decided to do a system pressure check per "How to tune and modify Bosch fuel injection" and several posts. Great info out there!

    Here are my results:
    Cold pressure 15psi (too low as I am in Savannah and it was 86F when the I conducted the test).
    System pressure- 65psi. On point
    Warm pressure- 45 psi. On point
    Rest pressure- 31psi after 20 minutes (tolerable according to the book, but not so much according to some BF posts).

    This all began after I had the starter replaced and I can see the connector for the CPR is directly under the starter. My connection looks tattered, but intact.

    My question- replace the control pressure regulator? The book says, "possible cause: Defective control pressure regulator". Also- could this be causing my rough ride???

    Guidance appreciated.

    Thanks in advance-
    Eric.

  2. #2
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    That control pressure is pretty low, even when warm (based on the specs below). I'm not sure on the 1.8 if you can toy with the 3mm fuel mix screw to smooth the idle whilst having low control pressure, but it is possible on the 2.0. *lower control pressure = more fuel.

    You can replace the wur and cross your fingers it works better, but do more t-shooting first.

    Make sure 12v is getting to the wur. If it's not, it will take too long for it to warm-up.

    *Replace the fuel filter before testing the fuel system. Also make sure the fuel suction hoses are not original (suck air bubbles).

    Does a 'finger-test' in the tail pipe reveal a lot of black soot, or just a tiny bit of black soot?
    Did you replace all the plug wires, or just the one?
    Do the spark plugs get fouled with carbon?
    What kind of spark plugs are you using?
    Have you adjusted the valves recently?

    Just for reference, these are the fuel pressure specs from the DIY/FAQ thread:

    Cold control pressure:
    (2.0)77-79 320i:
    50 deg = 10 psi
    75 deg = 18 psi
    100 deg = 26 psi

    (1.8)80-83 320i:
    50 deg = 17 psi
    75 deg = 26 psi
    100 deg = 35 psi

    System Pressure:
    64-74 psi

    Warm control pressure:
    (not sure if this is also for the 2.0 engine)
    48-54 psi

    Rest pressure (leak test): above 22 psi for 20 minutes

    injector opening pressure: 45 psi
    Last edited by epmedia; 08-12-2017 at 07:02 PM.
    Tbd

  3. #3
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    Epmedia-
    Thank you for the reply!
    After reviewing the book, the values given for the cold pressure test match the ones given on the forum for the 1.8 (80-83), but the book gives the following for the warm pressure test: 39-45psi. Also- the car behaves like this even after it is warm (assuming the warm up regulator only manages the car during warm up).
    Just got back from dinner. Will resume testing and investigation tomorrow to address your questions. I will order a fuel filter in the morning- always a good idea.
    Thanks again!

  4. #4
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    Voltage to WUR is 10.68
    Ordered fuel filter. Fuel suction hoses are likely original.
    Soot from exhaust looks like this:
    IMG_6360.jpg
    Spark plugs are not fouled with carbon. New in the last 3 months- NGK Copper spark plugs BPR5ES (#7734)
    Valves have not been adjusted recently. I did fail to mention that I did a compression test and all cylinders were tight.

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    I like the cold pressure table results Robert, however, I've been logging the tests since 2014,, 4 tests its does not vary like the table, not here anyway. The general rule is 20/50.

    Cold Control Pressure of 15 psi is low, should be around 20 + psi, Warm Control Pressure is 49-55 psi, yet Mid High 40's works good, rest pressure is 24 psi for 20 minutes or so and Fuel Injectors open at 44 psi, Nope--The WUR influences the fuel system all the time, cold, warm, hot.

    Randy

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    Randy- If the pressure is low while cold, but acceptable while hot, would the engine just show symptoms while cold? I am waiting to consider remove and replace until I see how it performs when I change the filter.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsaibacker View Post
    Voltage to WUR is 10.68
    Ordered fuel filter. Fuel suction hoses are likely original.
    Soot from exhaust looks like this:
    IMG_6360.jpg
    Spark plugs are not fouled with carbon. New in the last 3 months- NGK Copper spark plugs BPR5ES (#7734)
    Valves have not been adjusted recently. I did fail to mention that I did a compression test and all cylinders were tight.
    Was the tailpipe moist when you did that? I was expecting black soot, that looks like maybe a little rust mixed in there... That's not too bad, though just a tad on the rich side (low control pressure can do that). If you cannot get the rough idle to smooth-out with the 3mm mix screw, I'd suspect that the 'rough-idle' issue lay's somewhere other than the low control pressure. It's also possible the 'rough-idling' and 'running-issue' are not related.

    Definitely check the valve adjustment and replace those suction hoses if original (and fuel filter). -- covering some of the basics first.
    Last edited by epmedia; 08-14-2017 at 03:27 PM.
    Tbd

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    Tailpipe was not moist when swiped... Diving into the fuel system this weekend. Was considering refreshing the ignition system as well. Any thoughts on this upgrade suggested in the FAQ section:

    "Cap and rotor from 77-79 model
    Wire set 110-8025 from Jegs: $66.99
    Bosch Red Coil: $37 from Ireland Engineering
    AR52 spark plugs: $12 from Jegs.

    For the '77-79 models, you will want to convert to electronic ignition first. The points won't like the hotter spark of the red coil. The '77-79 cap is socket style which allows for more wire options, like American V8's. The rotor has a smaller nose so it has less spark scatter at high rpms. The Bosch red coil allows you to run a higher gap, up to .050". To run the red coil, you have to either swap to the 77-79 cap, rotor, and plug wires to have compatible fittings, or you have to swap one end on the coil wire to the socket style fitting rather than the post style used in the 80-83 wires. Also, to run the AR 52 plugs, you have to use the older style plug wires due to the non-removable cap on the plug tip."?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsaibacker View Post
    Randy- If the pressure is low while cold, but acceptable while hot, would the engine just show symptoms while cold? I am waiting to consider remove and replace until I see how it performs when I change the filter.
    Yes it could , it would running very rich in fuel. Wur voltage should be around 12 V also--clean the contacts with a spray cleaner like CRC 2-26 and see if this ups the voltage,check the wires and terminals for cracks and breaks also. I have repaired many spade terminals where the wires in the spade connectors were broken---loss in voltage.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 08-15-2017 at 12:40 PM.

  10. #10
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    I was curious about that 10.68 volts to the wur. I'd imagine the test was performed while the engine was running? 10.68v does seem a tad low if the alternator was charging above 12.6v. The wur, additional air valve, and both fuel pumps get their power from the fuel pump relay and the same fuse. If I remember correctly (*maybe Randy can verify this ); With the engine running, there should be less than 10% volt drop? on the fuel delivery's electrical components, *when compared to the battery(charging) voltage.

    * Don't quote me on that 10%, it's a guess from memory.

    Important note, regarding fuses - make sure the holders and fuse ends are clean and tight. It's also very important to only use the copper+brass fuses because they conduct electricity better and don't get as hot, or corrode like the aftermarket 'silver-colored' fuses.

    Edit: If you do the ignition 'refresh', don't skimp on any parts (particularly the 'un-named' cap and rotor on your list).
    Last edited by epmedia; 08-15-2017 at 04:18 PM.
    Tbd

  11. #11
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    Randy-
    I will clean and test for continuity compromise.
    Robert-
    I did the voltage test while I had the connector off for the test. The key was in second position, the relay was jumpered, but the engine was not running- will test voltage in that scenario. Battery reads a healthy 12.6V when engine not running and 14+ when running. I will check fuses and contacts as well. Bosch for the cap and rotor?
    Thanks again!
    Eric

  12. #12
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    Jumpering the fuel pump relay with key on is fine to check voltage s/b around 12 Volt,,here is something else NGK Copper spark plugs BPR5ES (#7734)--Factory is BOSCH WR9DS SILVER Tipped electrode--I tried copper one time and my car would not idle right so I dumped them,,Bosch Platinum or Bosch Silver Tipped is best ---My owners manual for these cars States Bosch WR9DS is oem spark plug for this car.

    I chatted with a BMW Service Tech once and he said using anything except silver tipped changes the factory specifications and car wont run right,,Bosch platinum or Bosch Silver tipped will smooth idle.

    Rockauto has them for $2.21 and $3.38--BMW Dealerships charge $6-$7 each--They have Green stripes and on them saying Bosch-come pre gapped, Info in links.

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/bosch,WR9DS,spark+plug,7212

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=276419&jsn=3&jsn=3


    Here is a link to autohaus on spark plugs--skip the copper--silver or platinum is way better. Only NKG recommended here is Iridium BPR5EIX @ $7.50 ea,,have not used Iridium--dont know about them. OEM spark plugs are listed as platinum and silver--silber,,silver-silber is oem.

    BMW E21's 1980-83 M10 use WR9DS,,77-79 M20 Motors use copper tipped.

    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...2@Spark%20Plug


    Randy

    Here is the information from My BMW 320i Owners Handbook- Page 112--check that 2 OEM Spark Plugs--Bosch WR9DS and BERU RS 33 both silver tipped. Beru is very hard to find outside of Germany and twice the price last time I found them and only thru Beru itself in Germany. Platinum was not invented yet for these cars. 1980-83 Bosch WR9DS or Beru RS 33, silver tipped electrodes all the way.

    DSCI0070.jpgDSCI0072.jpg

    Voltage drop:

    Voltage drop of 0.5Vdc is connector or wiring issues.. With 12 Volt systems it does not take much resistance from connector or wiring issues to cause a problem.
    Last edited by 320iAman; 08-16-2017 at 09:10 PM.

  13. #13
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    Just for the heck of it, another thing to check...

    Ensure the fuel tank vent system is not clogged, particularly the metal pipe that runs across the radiator-bottom to the charcoal canister. A bad charcoal canister will release pellets into that line and plug it (this happened to my '78 several years ago).

    * a plugged fuel vent system (on a tight fuel system) will make the fuel pump work extra hard.

    Edit: Bosch for cap and rotor should be fine, or maybe someone else has a better recommendation.
    Last edited by epmedia; 08-16-2017 at 06:58 PM.
    Tbd

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsaibacker View Post
    I did the voltage test while I had the connector off for the test. The key was in second position, the relay was jumpered, but the engine was not running- will test voltage in that scenario. Battery reads a healthy 12.6V when engine not running and 14+ when running.
    Eric
    G'Day ...

    When I first saw the 10.8 volts, I immediately thought, "that's a bit low"' but then I thought, "he's probably testing with the engine off and just running off the battery".

    As Robert (epmedia) has all ready pointed out, there are the fuel pumps and other gear running off the battery under these circumstances.

    From that point of view ... 10.8 volts is pretty acceptable based on the load on the battery from the way you tested it.

    But being an electrical engineer with close to 30 years experience with D.C. systems of all sorts ... I know there are all sorts of "Internet experts" who will want to argue the toss ... so I decided to test my own car today. Mines an 1.8 litre, but without the North American lambda system that would be a bit of extra load on your test conditions.

    Firstly I checked my battery voltage 12.61 volts .... at 22 degrees C
    Battery about 3 years old car had been run about 3 hours previously

    Pump jumpered, ignition on .. Battery voltage now 12.33 volts
    WUR voltage 10.45 volts.

    Taking isolated voltage measurements can be pretty meaningless unless you see what the rest of the circuit is doing too!

    So I checked the Aux. Air vlave connector too .. AAV voltage 10.55 volts.

    And to give these measurements some sort of context ... did it again with the engine running.

    Battery Voltage ... 14.00 volts
    WUR ... 12.52 volts
    AAV ... 12.61 volts

    My car also has 13.2 volts at the ignition coil. So basically I am getting a 0.8 volt drop from the battery to the other side of my ignition switch. Most of that is simply the slightly burnt contacts inside the ignition switch from normal use and is what I see all the time in industrial situations.
    As long as the battery is getting around 14 volts to make sure it is charging properly, car electrical systems of the E21's vintage have a pretty wide voltage tolerance without problems. Just make sure there is no damaged wiring and all the connectors are clean and tight.

    So, hopefully this will stop you panicking and chasing non-existant problems.

    Also, unless you want to keep the look of the "classic" cylindrical coil, and you want a coil that gives a way better spark. Then a more modern "transformer"* (E/C core) type coil is the way to
    go. these were introduced to fire much larger plug gaps in leaner burning engines to comply with emission regulations. Bosch have a "universal" replacement types, one for points type system and one for electronic systems.

    I use one I got off a Nissan 6 cylinder motor and run plug gaps of 1.25mm with platinum plugs.
    (But I tested it's electrical characteristics to make sure it was compatible with the existing ignition module ... the Bosch ones are a safer bet for non engineers)


    Cheers
    Graham

    * Yes ... I know all coils are a type of transformer .... but this a common description to differentiate the cylindrical type from the more modern type
    hmm .. Wonder what happens if I do this ...

  15. #15
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    Gents- Thank you for the suggestions and clarifications.
    As I am learning more about this engine and its inner workings, I do not mind testing and trying bits and pieces. I am however trying to form a definitive plan for the ignition refresh and would appreciate some clarification...

    The recommended plugs for the ignition upgrade (found in the FAQ/DYI section) are copper. Does the other adjustments accommodate for that variance? Do we even recommend that upgrade? Curious about the set up GDAus mentions, but would need more details to take action.

    My task list for this weekend:
    Replace the filter (arrived yesterday)
    Clean contacts and check/learn voltages on all of the fuel system components.
    Pick up some new plugs- the OEM Bosch WR9DS
    Check my fuel tank vent system

    Thanks again to you guys- I will track this hiccup down.

  16. #16
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    Thank you, Graham! You are always very thorough

    I'd go with the OE silver plugs for now. Who knows, maybe the miss at idle+running issue is from a bad spark plug. You can also (very carefully) do a spark-in-the-dark test, to look for ignition system leaks. On a side note; If you are running OE style 'resistor' plug wires, the resistors in the wires do go bad after years of service. I had 2 (after-market) resistor wires go completely dead in one day.
    Tbd

  17. #17
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    In testing the WUR for cold control pressure , the Cap on the Air Auxiliary Valve and the WUR is removed as they are on the same circuit and its cold control pressure testing, Cold Control Pressure of 15 psi is low,there is no electrical connections involved this points to the WUR given the fuel pump psi test are in specification.

    This 15 psi is the result of the bar with heating coil in the WUR being too far away so that the pentil is not up enough to create cold control pressure of 20 psi or so, the other cause could be the filter is clogged in the WUR so that not enough fuel is in the line to bring up to cold control pressure of 20 psi and the bar and pentil is good--in the right position or the third option clogged filter and bar too far away.

    Filters do get clogged,, take out wur and remove wur lines,spray till filled both holes with carb cleaner, let set for a while then blow out holes with compressed air or the compressed air with carb cleaner, do this a few times then reconnect and test again and see if cold control pressure has risen and problem gone,,if still low the bar with heating coil on it in the wur has to be tapped or struck lightly- bent slightly upward( downward in the picture) to move cold control pressure up.

    In another forum and possibly this one,,a person drilled a hole in the wur and the bar with the heating coil-then put a screw thru it and thus moves cold control pressure up and down by turning the screw-which moves the bar up and down and pentil simultaneously, I think Josh did this here,,

    Too test voltage to WUR take cap off, turn key on and read voltage in the cap connectors should be 12 V and read the voltage same way on the Air Auxiliary valve Cap should be 12 V there too, they are on the same circuit so a connector or wire problem on either one will effect the other, no need to run the car or anything else. You can test the heating coil by running a resistance test--yet since you have correct warm control pressure its working good.

    Here is a spare WUR I have that I'm working with

    DSCI0073.JPGDSCI0074.JPGDSCI0075.JPG The heating Coil on this spare one is 20 ohms and is good to rebuild and calibrate or clean and recalibrate--maybe make adjustable..

    The pentil(little cylindrical bar) is on the cap next too the spring-a little grease is there too hold it in place, the green color item is the electric heating coil which the cap connectors supply dc volts and amps to. picture of filter--not well focused.

    So in short form--skip the electrical till later and get the Mechanical Cold Control Pressure up to around 20 psi,, stick with this and you'll solve the problem, your on the checkered flag lap...

    For Future Reference when troubleshooting a cars run-ability always have new tune up parts installed--many problems are the result of tune up items being wore down, in this case no, yet a new tuneup part baseline really saves time and isolates problems faster..

    all problems with these cars can be solved by the forum members here--

    This link will assist on adjusting the cold control pressure,and cleaning it and rebuilding it, in your case cleaning with carb cleaner and adjusting it by a few taps should do it--read the bottom paragraph to move up and down cold control pressure.

    http://www.ferrari400parts.com/Warmu...atorrepair.php

    Here is a picture of the warm up regulator cold and hot,,the flexible plate if too far down when cold will have too low psi, adjusting per link above will fix the problem with a clean filter and plate.

    img_528a91503876b.png

    Those charts call for ambient temperature--its actually engine temperature, which is cool when unrun even on a hot day if not directly in the sun..

    img_528a903739dd9.png

    Bottom two photos courtesy of Vlad.

    Here is an article on how to modify the WUR to get an adjustable WUR, with this you can see what way to move the plug to get higher Cold Control Pressure--Patience and small adjustments gets this job done.

    Warm Up Regulator - Making adjustable
    The article on making the WUR adjustable is by Jay Pineau, Ark-La-Tex Region, PCA, in Volume VII, pages 116-117 of Up-Fixin. In case you don't have that, here is the text:

    "An engine equipped witha Bosch CIS (K-Jetronic) fuel injection system depends on the accuracy of the control pressure for starting and drivability performance. If during a system pressure and performance test it is determined that the warm-up regulator is at fault, you are faced with an alternative: replace it (list price now about $280) or attempt to repair it.

    The regulator is a fairly simple device which varies the control pressure with temperature (both engine and self-induced via an internal heating element). There are two main causes of malfunction: heating element failure and foreign material in the metering chamber.

    A quick check with an ohm meter will determine if the heating element is defective. It should read 18 to 22 ohms resistance (I didn't get this exact reading, but it wasn't an open circuit). If the element is faulty, the regulator must be replaced unless you can locate a replacement heating element from a used regulator.

    If satisfactory, the regulator can be carefully disassembled and cleaned. Take care that the two small orifices are completely clear. If the diaphragm shows any wear, flip it over at reassembly. (Be careful here--the diaphragm is VERY thin metal. I didn't disassemble the bimetal spring, just pushed it aside to remove the diaphragm.)

    After reinstallation, it may (WILL) require readjustment to obtain correct pressure relationships. (These pressures vary with the year of the car and the part number of the WUR. You can find them in the shop manual. If you don't have them, I can xerox and snail-mail)

    Bruce Anderson described in PANORAMA (October 1984) how this adjustment can be accomplished by "knocking the plug". The only problem with this procedure is if you "knock" it in too far, you must remove and reassemble the regulator to "knock" it back (indeed true, I tried this method). By the time you have obtained the best cold and hot values, you may have to do it several times.

    The unit can be modified to provide for external adjustments by the addition of a pull-out screw and nut which permits very accurate movement of the plug."

    The article also includes a diagram, but essentially you drill and tap a 5mm hole about 10mm deep into the center of the plug. Then drill a second 1.5mm hole in the crack between the plug and the WUR body. Put a 1.5mm roll pin in this hole and tap it down flush with the body (the idea is to keep the plug from rotating when you move it up and down with the pull-out screw).

    Put a 5mm allen-head screw, with a washer slightly larger than the plug, and a 8mm diameter nut, into the 5mm hole. Keep the nut backed off, and gently tighten the screw until it bottoms in the hole. Now, to raise the plug (higher control pressure), hold the screw with an allen key and tighten the nut (it's a tight fit, but an 8mm box-end wrench should fit over the head of the screw). To lower the plug (lower control pressure), hold the screw, back the nut off, and then tap the screw (I use a brass drift and it takes a fairly hard whack).

    Of course, while you are doing any adjustments, you need to be looking at the control pressure. I bought a CIS gauge from J.C. Whitney for less than $60. Be sure that the electrical connector to the WUR is disconnected when setting cold control pressure, and that the engine is dead cold. To get the fuel pump to run, jump terminals 30 and 87a on the fuel pump relay socket (on my 83, it is the red relay in the luggage compartment).

    If your car doesn't have an O2 sensor, you are completely dependent on correct fuel pressures and mixture setting to get the engine to run correctly, so the WUR is important. After I did the WUR modification, I am confident that I can set my engine up properly, and it starts and runs perfectly, cold or hot.

    I hope this helps--if you want the diagram of the modification, send me an SASE at 30822 Alta Mira Drive, Redlands, CA 92373.

    Bob Tindel
    btindel@gte.net




    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 08-17-2017 at 09:32 PM.

  18. #18
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    Okay, I just finished testing my spare Warm Up Regulator and calibrated it.

    Cold Control pressure was 32 psi,,the depth of the brass stud bolt holding the bi metal strip was 1.46 mm from top flat surface.

    I placed a bolt on top of the brass stud bolt and stuck it lightly--moved too little so a few good wacks pushed the brass stud bolt in to 2.92 mm , Cold control pressure was 7 psi , I opened it up and stuck the threaded nut side of the brass stud bolt with same bolt used to get greater depth on the top side, a few times getting it 2.64 mm and 2.32 mm still no good rise from 7 psi,, I then moved it upward by a few good wacks to 2.00 mm,,, and tested 21-22 psi--just right. ran warm control pressure tests 52 psi steady.

    So 2 mm 21 -22 psi and warm control pressure at 52 psi, this spare now is as good as new and joins the other items I rebuilt, ect for backup purposes.

    The method of striking the brass bolt on both sides to adjust cold control pressure to specifications is really good and easy--

    Your turn Eric, a little grease holds the pintel,little bar or dowel to the spring cap and dont need to disconnect the fuel lines to the wur to make adjustment,,be careful and keep track of the little nuts and screws and spring and so forth, can do all adjustment right on the throttle body with fuel and test lines connected, make sure the connector plastic piece is off the throttle body when adjusting cold control pressure--calibrating it in other words.

    Remove the WUR from the engine place it normally is attached too and air cleaner, it sits easy in the engine bay on items there on the battery side.

    Thank y'all for inputs.

    FYI- The WUR installed has been at 20-22 psi for around 4 years and start up normal.. I have done some sizable electrical upgrades big 5 or 6 and so forth.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 08-19-2017 at 04:55 PM.

  19. #19
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    Randy, do you still have your pressure gauge? I need to make some adjustments to mine, I'm fed up with eyeballing it
    -John

  20. #20
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    Yes, I just finished using it to calibrate my spare WUR's Cold Control Pressure, a few minutes ago. It a S & G Tool Aid Corp- Bosch CIS K-Jetronic Systems- tester Model No 33800.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 08-19-2017 at 05:21 PM.

  21. #21
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    Randy-
    Thank you for the update and "nudge".
    Today I changed the fuel filter and the spark plugs to OEM suggested. No difference in smoothness.
    I started the WUR removal for cleaning and got called to a higher "honey do" item... I will resume early in the morning- this is happening.
    Question- the "easiest" way to remove the WUR seems to be remove the banjo bolts from the FD, remove the WUR and then remove the fuel lines from the WUR and then clean/adjust- Correct?

    Issues like this bring me closer to the car (which is already member of the family), but challenge my sanity- why is this little piece so important to understand and master???

    I can only assume that is the reason we gather at bimmerforums to support and commune with each other.

    Poetic and insane.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sacramento, California
    Posts
    4,704
    My Cars
    1980 BMW 320i E21 M10B18

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsaibacker View Post
    Randy-
    Thank you for the update and "nudge".
    Today I changed the fuel filter and the spark plugs to OEM suggested. No difference in smoothness.
    I started the WUR removal for cleaning and got called to a higher "honey do" item... I will resume early in the morning- this is happening.
    Question- the "easiest" way to remove the WUR seems to be remove the banjo bolts from the FD, remove the WUR and then remove the fuel lines from the WUR and then clean/adjust- Correct?

    Issues like this bring me closer to the car (which is already member of the family), but challenge my sanity- why is this little piece so important to understand and master???

    I can only assume that is the reason we gather at bimmerforums to support and commune with each other.

    Poetic and insane.
    Y'all are welcome , You'd remove one line from the WUR-Control Pressure Line,,14 mm wrench size on the WUR-the bigger one--runs to the top of the fuel distributor-13 mm wrench or socket size and put your testing line in the fuel distributor and WUR and leave the return line in place--smaller one that goes too the side fuel distributor in place,then jumper the fuel pump relay and read cold control pressure from the gauge,take cap off WUR to do cold control pressure, then adjust and calibrate by moving the threaded brass stud to get too 20 psi or so cold control pressure,,then plug in and wait 5 minutes and you'll see the pressure rise to 50 psi or so, if the heating coil is working in specification, if not Fuel injection Corp-Bob and Kathy and CIS Flowtech-Larry rebuilds these with all new parts inside and reasonable..

    The warm up regulator is critical to Car running correctly from the fuel stand point... When the car is cold, the wur at 20 psi , allows the piston in fuel distributor to admit more fuel per Air/Fuel ratio--warm running A/F ratio, this creates a rich fuel condition which all internal combustion motors like to start up cold--this partially compensated by additional air valve-- and partially more rich by the cold start valve. When the WUR warm up Cold Control Pressure of 20 psi or so is replaced by Warm Control Pressure of 50 PSI or so, then leans the Air Fuel mixture and lets the O2 sensor, ECU and Lambda Valve make the adjustments to air/fuel ratio and push towards 14.7/1 A/F ratio.

    If the Wur does not do this the car will lose power immense, difficult to start and so forth,, so the WUR is very important. On 1977-79 and other years so equipped, The WUR is more than critical as this adjusts startup and running pressure of the fuel system as they have no O2 sensor and so forth to make running Air/Fuel adjustments..

    If the WUR cold control pressure is too low, too much fuel will get thru and this will create too much of the black stuff on your finger,possible flood the motor with fuel--difficult start, too lean--too high control pressure--difficult to start as motors cold-require excess fuel to start or rich condition.

    The forum assists persons to get there car in shape and share repairs, part prices, rebuilding items and so forth, this keeps money in your pocket rather than give away to local shops -that more often than not fleece there customers,

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 08-20-2017 at 11:35 AM.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Savannah, GA
    Posts
    240
    My Cars
    83 320i 00 540i6 85 535i
    Removed an cleaned WUR
    IMG_6407.jpg

    reconnected lines with the gauge in-line to check pressure- hooked up both lines to WUR, put adapter on the banjo bolt end of the top line- ran that to the valve, into a T, up to gauge, down to fuel distributor. Pressure was only 10psi. Noticed leak in the bottom line of the WUR where it connects to the Fuel distributor.
    Hard plastic line had a hole in it at the end of the banjo bolt
    (poor picture)
    IMG_6408.jpg

    Cut line and tried to reset banjo head into the fuel line- Very challenging and could not accomplish without disfiguring the line. At a standstill for now. Headed to RealOEM for part number and then google to research how to set connectors into hard fuel lines.

    - - - Updated - - -

    From the diagram on Real OEM, the connectors come with the fuel line...

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    District Nine
    Posts
    17,984
    My Cars
    sold 78 BMW 320i
    Ugg, leaky line... You need a special fixture (ie: 2 pieces of wood with drilled hole and vice) to hold the line while tapping the fitting into the line. I've never tried it, so good luck if you do try. There's a detailed write-up somewhere (may have been a MB forum), maybe search 'repair fuel line'.

    fyi: supposedly there's at least one felt filter under that metal mesh screen on the wur. make sure it's clean too.
    Tbd

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sacramento, California
    Posts
    4,704
    My Cars
    1980 BMW 320i E21 M10B18

    Cool

    10 psi is too low-measure it with no leaks,, in a pinch, just get fuel injector hose, take out the barbed banjo fitting, use small clamps and done easy repair. Then shop for hard plastic fuel line hose same diameter and fix it back original.

    The hard hose heat it with a heat gun to softened it then press the barbed banjo fitting with a brake or gas line flare tool,,the tube fits in one of the sandwiched holes and clamped in and another tool screw presses the barbed fitting into the hard plastic tube ,with or without heat gun this will work and as long as the line is long enough when repaired to fit.

    Harbor Freight

    https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piec...-kit-5969.html

    Belmetric has the banjo eye fittings and black polyamide hose to make original, German made. I bought german quality brake line from them--good people and fast shipping.

    https://www.belmetric.com/black-poly...c-14_184_1153/

    https://www.belmetric.com/eye-fittin...1041_855_1136/

    Cut out banjo eye and screw in barbed fitting install in fuel injector hose, clamp on each end and install, then make a new polyamide line from belmetric with new banjo eye and screw in fitting ,,keep old line as souvenir , no need to stop.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 08-20-2017 at 05:45 PM.

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