Am I getting shagged? Driveshaft, 100k svc, Fuel Filter, etc.

[BamaBMWgirl]

My 2005 325i (110k miles) recently started a loud humming and vibration between 38-43 mph and 1500-2000 rpm. Hard acceleration over 3k rpm and no noise/ vibration. I took it in for an oil change, 100k service and to diagnose the issue.

My trusted mechanic has recently let his son take over the day to day running of his business as he prepares to retire...

The son has quoted me $1540.36 for a complete new Drive Shaft. Driveshaft and new giubo are $1186.

When discussing the needed 100k service, he quoted me $650 for a trans and coolant flush plus spark plugs, etc. Most of the belts were replaced at 60k service.

I elected to go ahead with the trans flush at a price of $200. Total bill for oil change, air filter, cabin air filter and trans flush/fill was $362. Not a bad day in Mayberry for a BMW.

The thing that set off alarm bells was when I mentioned that the fuel filter should probably be done as well for the 100k service. He immediately told me it was a lifetime filter and not serviceable. I gently told him it's under the driver seat and would need to be replaced, at which he quoted me $250 after looking it up on a computer.

I'm not very comfortable with his diagnosis of a complete drive shaft replacement. Also, there was no mention of replacing transmission supports during the process.

Am I paranoid or could this fellow be making a lazy computer generated diagnosis and shagging me in the process?

I understand maintenance is expensive for these cars but something has my hackles up. Opinions please?

[dhurley34]

Run. Run far away.

[mtnbimmer]

Find a good independent BMW mechanic. You can start here:

www.bimrs.org

or here:

https://www.bimmershops.com

[jc1kz]

Getting shagged... yes I think so...Sorry to hear you friend the mechanic is going to retire, passing the business to the son is traditional, but I feel the son is trying to upsell/charge regular dealership pricing....I would not be surprised to see a lot of his customers leaving the shop...@ those prices I would feel more comfortable at a dealership, (to me an Indy shop is good service/quality parts/knowledgeable mechanics/less expensive than the dealership) Before you have them do any other work, check w/dealership and other Indy shops, but if you don't feel comfortable at your Indy shop find another, hopefully there will be others in your area.....just my two cent....

[BamaBMWgirl]

Find a good independent BMW mechanic. You can start here:

www.bimrs.org

or here:

https://www.bimmershops.com

Thank you for the reply. I struck out with the first link (I live in BFE) but did manage to find someone on the second list. I will give them a call on Monday.

Reading through several forums today, I did run across a thread that discussed flat spots in the wheels causing some of the same symptoms. Over the last 6 months, I have had my tires rotated and balanced four times trying to get rid of a wobble on acceleration (brakes and rotors inspected and verified good). I'm beginning to wonder if my wheel/tire woes may be related. Hopefully, these fellows know what they are doing and are honest. It's tough navigating the car world as a woman. It's difficult to know who to trust.

[BamaBMWgirl]

Getting shagged... yes I think so...Sorry to hear you friend the mechanic is going to retire, passing the business to the son is traditional, but I feel the son is trying to upsell/charge regular dealership pricing....I would not be surprised to see a lot of his customers leaving the shop...@ those prices I would feel more comfortable at a dealership, (to me an Indy shop is good service/quality parts/knowledgeable mechanics/less expensive than the dealership) Before you have them do any other work, check w/dealership and other Indy shops, but if you don't feel comfortable at your Indy shop find another, hopefully there will be others in your area.....just my two cent....

Thank you for the input. Good to know my BS meter is still operational. Unfortunately, the closest dealer is 100 miles away but I am taking mtnbimmer's advice and going to another shop.

[flyfishvt]

That price was probably for genuine BMW parts not aftermarket or OEM. If that's the case then $1200 sounds about right.

If that's the case then you have to give him credit for using quality parts. Apples don't usually fall far from the tree. You trusted his father. Give him a chance. He's not going to run it the same way his father did. If you have concerns be upfront and honest with him. If he's quoting prices for genuine parts ask him if there are alternatives.

You can always walk away if you don't like his attitude or his answers

[shoman24v]

I would first ask why you need a new driveshaft. Seems really unrealistic that after 110k your driveshaft is bad. Now, there's a chance that the center support bearing that is in the middle of the driveshaft could be bad causing vibrations or the guibo itself is bad.

$24 center support bearing
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ro-26127501257

The driveshaft will have to come out to replace the center support bearing. That's also a good time to replace the guibo (flex disk)

$29 flex disk
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-26111227410my

If you want to replace the transmission mounts here's a link to the parts:

$7.50 (need 2)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-22316771219

$60 Fuel filter - Not seeing where the $200 in labor is coming from this item. There are some small rubber hoses and clamps that should be replaced with this (no part number off hand right now)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-13327512019

Replacing all this stuff is relatively easy. The exhaust and heat shielding has to come down to access the drive shaft.

Hopefully, this helps you. I'd reverify these parts are for your car. And, a lot of shops will install these parts if you supply them. There won't be any warranty though.

[jclausen]

Two things come to mind, if you have been going to the shop for a awhile and have an established relation ship with the owner, I would talk to him about your concerns. The son needs to know your thoughts. Because for him and you it could be more a delivery of the information or short unexplained answers to your question. Then about price, for the most part an established relation ship where they know you and you know them is worth a Lot. they are a business they have over head, techs, tech tools, diagnostic laptops, updates to those, equipment up keep, employee benefits, insurance, warranty, knowledge that you do not have. They are there to make money just like you and me. But if you have concerns let the owner know, don't just walk away, it won't help you and it won't help their business.

[BamaBMWgirl]

Thank you for your input flyfishvt and jclausen.

The parts he quoted me have Napa part numbers 70005931 and 26117511454. Driveshaft cost $684 - shop price $1039, Flex disk cost $91 - Shop price $108.

His attitude is what really put me off. When he talked down to me about the fuel filter being non-serviceable and I was correct, that was a deal breaker. I felt that he thought I
was a simpleton.

He also stated that aside from the flex disk, that none of the drive shaft components were serviceable. Which again, is not true. Regardless of who fixes the car, I will probably be better off supplying my own parts.

I am going to get a second opinion from a local shop that specializes in German cars. But either way, I will be giving the owner of my old shop feedback on my decision.

[BamaBMWgirl]

Two things come to mind, if you have been going to the shop for a awhile and have an established relation ship with the owner, I would talk to him about your concerns. The son needs to know your thoughts. Because for him and you it could be more a delivery of the information or short unexplained answers to your question. Then about price, for the most part an established relation ship where they know you and you know them is worth a Lot. they are a business they have over head, techs, tech tools, diagnostic laptops, updates to those, equipment up keep, employee benefits, insurance, warranty, knowledge that you do not have. They are there to make money just like you and me. But if you have concerns let the owner know, don't just walk away, it won't help you and it won't help their business.

I understand the overhead of running a business. Even if the cost is slightly higher, I will always defer to someone I trust. You are spot on with your delivery of information comment. That is what truly was off putting. I am going to get a second opinion from an experienced BMW shop and then weigh my options. Either way, I will give the owner feedback on how I was spoken to by his son. Thank you for the reply.

[BamaBMWgirl]

I would first ask why you need a new driveshaft. Seems really unrealistic that after 110k your driveshaft is bad. Now, there's a chance that the center support bearing that is in the middle of the driveshaft could be bad causing vibrations or the guibo itself is bad.

$24 center support bearing
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ro-26127501257

The driveshaft will have to come out to replace the center support bearing. That's also a good time to replace the guibo (flex disk)

$29 flex disk
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-26111227410my

If you want to replace the transmission mounts here's a link to the parts:

$7.50 (need 2)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-22316771219

$60 Fuel filter - Not seeing where the $200 in labor is coming from this item. There are some small rubber hoses and clamps that should be replaced with this (no part number off hand right now)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-13327512019

Replacing all this stuff is relatively easy. The exhaust and heat shielding has to come down to access the drive shaft.

Hopefully, this helps you. I'd reverify these parts are for your car. And, a lot of shops will install these parts if you supply them. There won't be any warranty though.

WOW! Thank you for taking the time to post all theses links. You have created a monster. I'm going to become a "Car Prepper" and start stock piling parts. The lifetime guarantee is exceptionally attractive!

Control Arm Bushings are next. Which do you suggest? Meyle or Lemforder? I am looking at this kit;

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31126757623my

[shoman24v]

WOW! Thank you for taking the time to post all theses links. You have created a monster. I'm going to become a "Car Prepper" and start stock piling parts. The lifetime guarantee is exceptionally attractive!

Control Arm Bushings are next. Which do you suggest? Meyle or Lemforder? I am looking at this kit;

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-31126757623my

You are welcome! I always order my parts from FCP, they are a great site. I just bought my E46 in January and have done a ton of maintenance to it.

See here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124584

I actually just ordered a set of control arms with bushings for my car. These are them https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...6-zhp4piecekit I have a sports package, so I would verify if these fit your car too, if you bought. They come with the same bushings you linked, which are also really good. If your control arms have never been changed, it may be a good time to do them with the bushings. The TRW arms are supposed to be really good and are really cheap right now (one of the reasons I bought).

A lot of shops overcharge for parts because they use "BMW" parts. Most BMW parts are the same parts you can buy with the BMW logo scratched off for much less.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxhGoeOQNZw

[BamaBMWgirl]

Beautiful car! One question. I thought that these cars had either a Disa or a Vanos but not both? Did I misunderstand something? Also, where would you suggest ordering interior parts. My console is peeling and the pillars need to be recovered.

[dhurley34]

The only way I would see that the driveshaft would need to be replaced is if one of the U-joints is bad. Even if that is the case, a replacement shaft can be bought from Driveshaft Specialist in Texas for under $400 shipped with two year warranty.

[floydr]

Beautiful car! One question. I thought that these cars had either a Disa or a Vanos but not both? Did I misunderstand something?

Yes, you did. All M5x engines since around '93 or so have had VANOS, which manages valve timing. The M54 and other engines have a DISA, which manages airflow in the intake manifold. Two very different things.

[shoman24v]

Yes, you did. All M5x engines since around '93 or so have had VANOS, which manages valve timing. The M54 and other engines have a DISA, which manages airflow in the intake manifold. Two very different things.

This. M54 and M52TU motors of our generation have a DISA valve, but they vary between the motors if I'm correct. It's an expensive part, if I recall, about $200 (actually purchased from ECS). Mine was bad and making a loud noise. If yours isn't then I wouldn't worry. No need to mess with your vanos either. Looking back, I probably didn't need to replace the seals, but I did the valve cover so I ended up doing it anyway. There's a lot of information on the seals online.

Regarding your interior, FCP should sell the parts, but they are pretty expensive.

Your steering wheel could be fixed at home if you just remove it, sand it, and paint it like satin black. I haven't got to my interior stuff yet.... I may just peel all the soft touch from the center console and armrest since the plastic under it is the color of my interior.

Google realoem. That's how you can find part numbers for everything.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[BamaBMWgirl]

Thank you, everyone, for all of the replies and information. I will update when I get an answer from the shop.

[BamaBMWgirl]

First of all, thank you to everyone who offered advice. You fellows are wonderful!

The second Opinion was received today. It took some doing, but I finally found a reputable shop willing to let me bring my own parts. He is charging $90 an hour for labor which I believe is fair.

The young man drove the car and then put it up on the rack and gave it a thorough going over.

Driveshaft and U-Joint are fine. Some play in the CSB. Giubo visually looks good from the exterior. Transmission mounts show some wear.

Tires and wheels are good but did suggest that I have the wheels checked to make sure there is no warping. He said this series is notorious for the wheels twisting. There is a bit of a wobble in the brakes but the pads are only down by about half. It will definitely need new rotors at the next brake service.

Control Arm Bushings look good and show virtually no wear.

Going forward I am ordering a new CSB, Giubo, and transmission mounts for immediate replacement.

Over the next few months, he suggested the following repairs/maintenance but there is not anything pressing.

Fan Clutch assembly (Baer)
Vanos Oil Feed Line
Fuel Filter
Spark Plugs (NGK)
Oil Pan Gasket
Coolant Flush (Pentofrost Blue)

Sounds reasonable to me. Any other suggestions?

[dhurley34]

The second opinion is spot on with everything and $90/hr is respectable.

It would serve you well to have the water pump, expansion tank, and thermostat housing if they havent already been replaced.

[BamaBMWgirl]

The second opinion is spot on with everything and $90/hr is respectable.

It would serve you well to have the water pump, expansion tank, and thermostat housing if they havent already been replaced.

Thanks! I will add them to my list. Any idea on rough cost?

[BamaBMWgirl]

Quick question? Should I order new bolts and the centering sleeve for Guibo? Also, on the CSB do I need just the bearing or the complete bearing and housing. I'm looking here at the parts list. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=26_0129

[dhurley34]

Yes for the bolts and nuts and centering sleeve. Its cheap insurance and you'll never have to do it again.

Also, get the complete CSB assembly that includes both the bearing and housing.

[dhurley34]

The expansion tank, water pump, and thermostat are less than $200 total for OE parts through ECS or FCP

[BamaBMWgirl]

Sorry to be a pest. I think I am confusing myself. There are two different part numbers on real oem. This one 26127501257 for the housing and this one 26121225071 for the bearing itself. On FCP the first number appears to have both. Does 26127501257 include both or do I need to order them individually? KX11375 are the last seven of my serial.