Rear upper/lower ball joint removal/installation tool rental

**ewrjontan** · 08-11-2017, 06:02 PM

So I am in the process of replacing the upper and lower rear ball joints in my '95 M3. I've made my own tool following this diy:

http://e36diy.com/replace-upper-rear...oints-e36-diy/

I've been successful enlarging the holes in the old bushings and using 1/2" threaded rod to remove/pull the old bushings out; works great! However, I am having trouble installing them. So far, I have gotten one bushing ALMOST all of the way in but in the process I have snapped three 3/8" threaded rods and one copper coupler. Shit is starting to add up in price and I don't want to go through sixteen rods and eight couplers to do this. Not sure how anyone has been successful with the 3/8 rod.

Is anyone here currently renting out the real tool or have any leads on any? I might just purchase this one from ebay but since it's shipping from the UK, it will be a few weeks before it arrives and I fear that I will end up breaking that too lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-3-E36-E4...4AAOSwT6pVzFW5

Anyone?

**bluptgm3** · 08-11-2017, 06:14 PM

Grade 12 bolt and nuts, scrap the tool and figure out you own with black pipe washers and reducers

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**ewrjontan** · 08-11-2017, 06:32 PM

Well, my hardware stores (ace and menards) don't carry grade 12 (or even grade 8) bolts or threaded rod long enough; the longest bolts they carry are 6 inches and I need a minimum of 8". I guess Mcmaster-carr sells some grade 8 threaded rod. Might grab that if no one has the tool :/

**rajicase** · 08-11-2017, 07:25 PM

I just used the c clamp ball joint press from autozone's tool rental program and had zero issues pressing out and in the ball joints with my assortment of impact sockets. I had the arms out of the car though, don't know if that is a limitation.

**ewrjontan** · 08-11-2017, 07:57 PM

From what I have read the cups included in the rental tool kits do not fit correct?

**LockDots** · 08-14-2017, 06:43 AM

Originally Posted by ewrjontan

From what I have read the cups included in the rental tool kits do not fit correct?

They work for removing the ball joints. To install them (like rajicase) I used impact sockets. I used a little white lithium grease on the boots to prevent them from snagging and tearing on the sockets.

**NeilM** · 08-14-2017, 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by ewrjontan

So I am in the process of replacing the upper and lower rear ball joints in my '95 M3. I've made my own tool following this diy:

http://e36diy.com/replace-upper-rear...oints-e36-diy/

I've been successful enlarging the holes in the old bushings and using 1/2" threaded rod to remove/pull the old bushings out; works great! However, I am having trouble installing them. So far, I have gotten one bushing ALMOST all of the way in but in the process I have snapped three 3/8" threaded rods and one copper coupler. Shit is starting to add up in price and I don't want to go through sixteen rods and eight couplers to do this. Not sure how anyone has been successful with the 3/8 rod.

⅜" rod will never work for pulling or pushing these bushings; it's just not strong enough. You need to bite the bullet and buy higher strength (120 kpsi) 12mm diameter threaded rod from McMaster-Carr, see: https://www.mcmaster.com/#95245A115. At almost $32 for a 300mm length it's kind of pricey, but you can use it with large size ¾" drive sockets to improvise pullers for any number of different bushings. And don't forget some hardened washers and high strength hex nuts to go with that. Standard hex nuts can strip their threads when used for pullers.

Neil

**smr87** · 08-14-2017, 11:42 AM

I'll send you my kit to use. $70 to rent it which includes the cost to ship it to you, plus an $80 deposit that will be refunded when I receive the kit back in the same condition it was sent. If I don't get it back from you within 30 days I keep the deposit. Send me a PM if you're interested and I'll send you my paypal info.

**ewrjontan** · 08-14-2017, 11:48 AM

I'm going to give this a go (rent the kit from AA and use some iron threaded pipe as seen here):

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ll-Joint-Tools

Hopefully it works, if not, I will hit you up. Thanks!!!

**RRSperry** · 08-15-2017, 09:26 AM

While you can jury rig a way to do it, using the correct tool is easier. Yes the tool costs about $230, but... There are several guys that do rent them. (me being one).

It seems the biggest hassle is the rear brake dust shield that you have to loosen.

**bluptgm3** · 08-15-2017, 09:31 AM

Originally Posted by RRSperry

While you can jury rig a way to do it, using the correct tool is easier. Yes the tool costs about $230, but... There are several guys that do rent them. (me being one).

It seems the biggest hassle is the rear brake dust shield that you have to loosen.

Got link or photo for correct tool in action?

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**LockDots** · 08-15-2017, 09:48 AM

Originally Posted by RRSperry

While you can jury rig a way to do it, using the correct tool is easier. Yes the tool costs about $230, but... There are several guys that do rent them. (me being one).

It seems the biggest hassle is the rear brake dust shield that you have to loosen.

Loosen? I just bent mine out and back in.

Originally Posted by bluptgm3

Got link or photo for correct tool in action?

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It's the big C-Clamp looking bushing press.

**RRSperry** · 08-15-2017, 10:23 AM

http://www.baumtools.com/shop/rear-a...l#.WZMDclGGNPY

that and the B90 bearing tool will set you back a ton...lol

**bimma360** · 08-15-2017, 11:30 AM

There are a ton of different ways to skin a cat, sure. Using the right tool for the job makes life much easier, and the job much quicker. RRSperry is the man, and rented me out his tool when I did the job (last year I think). Removing and installing the ball joints was the easiest job out of my full bushing replacement project. Probably took about 30 minutes to remove and install all 4. Maybe I am getting old in my age, but I don't screw around with trying to jerry rig tools anymore. Its just not worth the time and hassle to save a few bucks, to me at least. Especially, if you are already saving a ton by DIY. Do it right and efficiently the first time, and just enjoy the process.

**JitteryJoe** · 08-15-2017, 11:35 AM

Originally Posted by RRSperry

http://www.baumtools.com/shop/rear-a...l#.WZMDclGGNPY

that and the B90 bearing tool will set you back a ton...lol

About 1/2 the price
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

**LockDots** · 08-15-2017, 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by bimma360

There are a ton of different ways to skin a cat, sure. Using the right tool for the job makes life much easier, and the job much quicker. RRSperry is the man, and rented me out his tool when I did the job (last year I think). Removing and installing the ball joints was the easiest job out of my full bushing replacement project. Probably took about 30 minutes to remove and install all 4. Maybe I am getting old in my age, but I don't screw around with trying to jerry rig tools anymore. Its just not worth the time and hassle to save a few bucks, to me at least. Especially, if you are already saving a ton by DIY. Do it right and efficiently the first time, and just enjoy the process.

+1

Having the tools made for the job lets you enjoy the task at hand as opposed to it being a nuisance in the way. To me that's worth the cost of renting or purchasing tools.

**bluptgm3** · 08-15-2017, 07:15 PM

I agree completely!!! But I like the idea of the larger drive thread of the C-clamp tool. What is that tool?

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**ewrjontan** · 08-15-2017, 08:20 PM

Originally Posted by bimma360

There are a ton of different ways to skin a cat, sure. Using the right tool for the job makes life much easier, and the job much quicker. RRSperry is the man, and rented me out his tool when I did the job (last year I think). Removing and installing the ball joints was the easiest job out of my full bushing replacement project. Probably took about 30 minutes to remove and install all 4. Maybe I am getting old in my age, but I don't screw around with trying to jerry rig tools anymore. Its just not worth the time and hassle to save a few bucks, to me at least. Especially, if you are already saving a ton by DIY. Do it right and efficiently the first time, and just enjoy the process.

I agree. After doing the trailing arm bushings in my old VW GTI with several years ago with a make-shift-diy tool I realized that the "proper" tool is worth it. That being said, I wanted to get the actual tool for these ball joints but I couldn't find any sources to rent them from before deciding to just try the DIY tool. I rented out the advanced auto kit this morning and it seems that it should work. We will see tomorrow

**mitch500** · 08-16-2017, 09:13 AM

I used a socket and a big hammer and massaged them in

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**ewrjontan** · 09-17-2017, 02:23 PM

Meant to post this last month. I ended up getting the bushings installed with the Advanced Auto kit; worked like a charm. However, removal with the kit was not so simple. The old style lower bushing pressed out fine with it, but the advanced auto tool just pushed the inner pieces of the updated (upper) ball joint apart. I ended up having to resort to my make shift copper fitting tool. The make shift tool worked perfectly for removal though it can get a little scary. The centers of the bushings need to be drilled out in-order to fit the 3/8 rod and it takes quite of work to get the bushings to start moving; right when you feel like one more twist of the nut is going to blow your contraption up, the bushing comes free.

To help with removal I had to use a large washer (got it at Ace hardware) to put over the new ball joint and help distribute the weight and prevent slippage of my reducers. Using the washer meant that I didn't have to fuss with having it 100% aligned since the copper reducer is almost exactly the same size as the ball joint and can easily slip.

For installation, all I bought was an iron pipe cap/plug thing from my local Menards. Fit perfectly around the ball joint and gave the Advance auto kit parts something to press on.

Album: https://imgur.com/a/pYhhb