E46 325i Trifecta Limp Mode (P1633, P1622, Etc)

[xLukas]

Hello all, I've decided to make a dedicated thread for this. Yes, I've seen many threads about this but many really have not come to conclusion and/or aren't exactly the same as my issue.

So, a little info: 2003 325iA built in 10/2002. I've had this vehicle just over a year now and have been repairing it from the damage that was caused by the previous owner. Around mid to late July, I began going into limp mode with the "trifecta lights" illuminated. The "trifecta" being the ABS, DSC and BRAKE lamp illuminated in yellow, (not red). I scanned codes and had a P1633. This code translates to "Throttle Valve Adaptation, Limp Mode Home" in BMW terms. I researched and decided I would replace the throttle body as some have had success. I thought I had success, but a few days later, the issue arose again. I was lucky enough to restart the car a few times and the issue went away, no need to be towed home.. (again). This issue happens randomly it seems, but is now happening more frequently. Keep in mind, when I'm not in limp mode, this car runs perfectly fine.

After some more research, I found more solutions. BMW Techs have told me they've needed to replace the entire DME which is out of the picture (>$1500), and/or the wiring harness needing replacement.
I contacted the person who sold me the throttle body (yes, I bought one used with 105K miles). His brother had INPA and scanned my car. I was unfortunately unable to replicate the limp mode while he was with me so I didn't get any information new (we deleted the old codes to see what new would come back), except for a code 235 (and an anti-theft alarm code, which seems totally irrelevant). Which is "oxygen-sensor control upstrem bank 1." As well as this, he reset adaptations on my transmission and throttle body. This morning I went to a junk yard. When I got home, I went into limp mode as I was pulling my car into the garage to replace the precat o2 sensors. I stopped in the driveway, scanned the codes and got a P1632 (not P1633) as well as P1092 and P0430.

P1632 being "Throttle Valve Adaptation - Adapation Condition Not Met."
P1092 being "Pre-Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank 1"
P0430 is "Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2"(?). This USED to be P0420, until I swapped the sensors. It is now P0430, leading me to believe I need to buy another new post cat sensor.

I reset the transmission/throttle adaptations by putting key into ignition position 2, holding the accelerator for 10 seconds, taking the key out for 10 and restarted. Limp mode disappeared. I then continued to replace the precat sensors.

I've read the service bulletin for code 235, as the DME may need to be "updated." Here is part of it:

"NotesSI B 12 07 04
Engine Electrical
November 2004
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. B12 07 04 dated August 2004.
[NEW] designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
Oxygen Sensor Faults on M54, S54 and S62 Engines
MODEL
E46 and E53 X5 with M54 (MS43) from 09/00 up to 09/03
E46 M3 with S54 (MSS54) from 02/01 up to 09/03
E36/7 Z3 with M54 (MS43) or S54 (MSS54) from 09/00 up to 09/02
E39 with M54 (MS43) from 09/00 up to 06/03
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 with S62 (MSS52 from 09/99 - 07/03
SITUATION
"Service Engine Soon" light is illuminated and some of the following oxygen sensor faults codes may be stored in the DME fault memory:
M54 (MS43) Control (pre-cat) sensors
(25) 19 hex - 02 heater circuit, Bank 1
(55) 37 hex - 02 heater circuit, Bank 2
(150) 96 hex - 02 signal circuit, Bank 1
(151) 97 hex - 02 signal circuit, Bank 2
(188) BC hex - 02 plausibility, Bank 1
(189) BD hex - 02 plausibility, Bank 2
(235) EB hex - 02 trim control pre-cat, Bank1
(236) EC hex - 02 trim control pre-cat, Bank 2
M54 (MS43) Monitor (post-cat) sensors
(61) 3D hex - 02 heater circuit, Bank 1
(79) 4F hex - 02 heater circuit, Bank 2
(152) 98 hex - 02 signal circuit, Bank 1
(153) 99 hex - 02 signal circuit, Bank 2
(190) BE hex - 02 plausibility, Bank 1
(191) BF hex - 02 plausibility, Bank 2
(225) E1 hex - 02 trim control post-cat, Bank 1
(226) E2 hex - 02 trim control post-cat, Bank 2
S54 (MSS54)/S62 (MSS52) Control (pre-cat) sensors
(13) 0D hex - 02 signal circuit pre-cat, Bank 1
(12) 0C hex - 02 signal circuit pre-cat, Bank 2
(218) DA hex - Signal plausibility; Voltage range exceeded, Bank 1
(219) DB hex - Signal plausibility; Voltage range exceeded, Bank 2
S54 (MSS54)/S62 (MSS52) Monitor (post-cat) sensors
(13) OD hex - 02 voltage monitoring, Bank 1
(93) SD hex - 02 voltage monitoring, Bank 2
CAUSE
DME software.
CORRECTION
On a customer complaint basis only, clear fault memory and reprogram DME using DIS CD 38.0 or higher.
Important :With this programming update it is not necessary to replace the Oxygen Sensor(s) when the previously listed faults are set. "



This is obviously an issue with the throttle valve adaptation issue, UNLESS the DME software update will fix the issue along with the oxygen sensor code. Which, from my reading, only seems to only remedy the oxygen sensor code 235.

Car is still in the garage. And now here I am, unsure of what to do.

PFA


20170722_153127.jpg

[RocketSurgeon]

There's too much going on here for me to give you definitive advice, but I'll try to give you some helpful info. The whole INPA suite, and even ISTA is pretty easy to set up. You can save a huge amount of money by getting your own software, plus the BMW software can read codes that your generic scanner cannot. It also has test plans to isolate the exact problem. You just need a $20 K+DCAN cable, and the software is available for free (PM if you need links). There may be a specific throttle body adaptation procedure to follow, ISTA would be great for that. Since there is a TSB for the DME software, that would be a good starting place. I can give you all the software and files to update your DME, I would just need to check if it can be flashed over k+dcan.
BTW, a DME wouldn't cost you $1500. You can buy the thing for under $100 and virginize it yourself with a free software tool and the k+dcan. I think you need to open it and short 2 pins to put it into boot mode.

[xLukas]

Video of limp idle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3XIlypfpl0

[xLukas]

I thought you had needed an old XP/Vista laptop to run INPA or related software, for they aren't made to work on newer Windows 10. If that is not the case, I've got an older laptop with Windows 10 I can use for it. I will PM you.

[xLukas]

Thank you very, very much RocketSurgeon. I have INPA running on my old laptop, which is on Windows 10 if anyone is wondering if INPA will work on it.

My codes were in German, but I took the numbers and used this website to understand totally in English: http://realitypod.com/2012/06/08/bmw...-e90-and-more/

Here are my codes in original form (German):

"235 Lambdatrimmregelung Vor-Kat-Bank 1
234 Katalysatorwirkungsgrad Hauptkatalysator Bank 2
135 TPS-Startpruefung
115 TPS-Adaption
242 Verbrennungsaussetzer Zylinder 5
240 Verbrennungsaussetzer Zylinder 3"


Here are my codes in English (from the link, MS41, MS42, MS43):

235 - Lambda Heater Bank 1 Post Cat or Pre Cat Signal (MS43)
234 - Catalytic Converter Overall Efficiency Bank 2
135 - Throttle Valve Re-Adaptation Required
115 Reference Voltage - Voltage Regulator 1 or Throttle Pedal Adaptation (MS43)
242 - Misfire Cyl 5
240 - Misfire Cyl 3


Where to start... hm.

[dhurley34]

No advice on the limp mode, but scan the anti lock brakes for codes to resolve the trifecta lights. You probably have a bad wheel speed sensor.

[xLukas]

No advice on the limp mode, but scan the anti lock brakes for codes to resolve the trifecta lights. You probably have a bad wheel speed sensor.

A malfunctioning wheel sensor will not cause limp mode though.

[dhurley34]

Limp mode wont cause the ABS DSC and Brake trifecta. You may have two separate issues completely unrelated i.e. wheel speed sensor AND limp mode.

Limp mode will cause the EML, CEL, and DSC trifecta to come on if the issue is TB related.

[xLukas]

Limp mode wont cause the ABS DSC and Brake trifecta. You may have two separate issues completely unrelated i.e. wheel speed sensor AND limp mode.

Limp mode will cause the EML, CEL, and DSC trifecta to come on if the issue is TB related.

Hm. If I put the key in pos 2, and IF the trifecta lights abs, dsc and brake light STAY on, my car will run like crap.

I need to "reset adaptations" which I did clear them via "running issue" on inpa. I reset codes but need to turn it on and let it run again to get some codes to get back. I turned the car on and ran rough but I guess the system hasn't recognized it somehow.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[xLukas]

I have today and tomorrow off. I need to get this figured out.

So it looks like the main issue is the throttle needs readaptation.

This has been done more than a couple times now through INPA. Via "irregular running" and I forgot the other, however it has been done. Unless that is not the proper way of doing so.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[xLukas]

Readapted the throttle body once again. Reset throttle response as well (key pos. 2, accelerator down 10 secs, remove key, turn on in 10 seconds).

Took it for a few mile drive around the neighborhood.

Code 135 shows up on INPA as I get back. It says "throttle valve re-adaptation required."

I am lost.

[Honolulu]

Disclaimer: I'm no expert.

1. I think the multiple codes are a "cascade" that is, one causes the other, which causes another. Difficult to say if there is more than one root cause, that is, two "streams" of cascading codes. However let's think there is one cause and move towards it.

2. You re-adapted the throttle several time but keep getting the same result. It's possible your used throttle body is bad. Is there a way to verify that the throttle body re-adaptation was effective/successful? Can you swap for another throttle body, on a limited-use agreement, a friend or someone with the same car?

3. The ECU may need to be reflashed. You have a laptop, you have INPA running, you got the interface cable, you seem to know where/why/what, and RocketSurgeon offers to show you how, to reflash the ECU. It's a big step and not something I'd try unless it was last resort, or I had a fall-back position, such as being able to save the current ECU settings, or access to another ECU.

4. Sometimes despite the level of our own efforts and the help of the online community, we have to invoke higher powers, whether an indie or nearest dealer. Discuss ahead of time what your situation is and what they can do for you, with cost data along the way. This is last-resort stuff, but without a solution at hand, it may be time. Resist strong language, hard drinking, insurance fraud, a can of gasoline + a match, or the BFH. No matter how strongly such may appeal.

[xLukas]

Even after downloading the newest ISTA version, I still have the same issue.


Very tempted to find a good indy. This is very frustrating and I'd like my car back in good condition.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[jclausen]

At some point you need to gey a professional look at the car, find a good independent shop and find out what is really going on, you just can't keep throwing parts at it

[whiskychaser]

Have you thought of checking what voltages are coming from the throttle pedal pots and the throttle body? AFIK, supply to the first is 5v and there are two pots: one returns 0.5 to 4.5v and the second (a check) returns 0.5 to 2.0v. A problem there will certainly throw you in limp mode

Similarly, the throttle body returns 0.5 to 4.5v but the second one is the other way round - 4.5 to 0.5v.

Can't find the link where I got the file containing all the details but if you send me a quick PM I will be more than happy to email it to you

[xLukas]

I don't know electrical testing, I'm not sure how to do it (unless you mean getting some multimeter, putting the prongs in the throttle body connector and putting into position 2). I just took apart everything and checked the connector, and seemed to be fine. Took it out, blew on the connector and reconnected it s couple times.

Made no difference.

I also have a fair size of a coolant leak coincidentally as this issue happens. Everything likes to go at once. Less than a year since I replaced the cooling system except the water pump (and it's not leaking from the water pump, it's from underneath the expansion tank).

Anyway, back to the bigger issue. On my shadow error memory, I found a code 63. DME Control Unit or Ambient Temp Signal via CAN (MS43).

Yes, I know I should take it to a professional but if I cannot find the issue with BMW software, how likely are they? This issue isn't all too common AFAIK.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[whiskychaser]

The software gives you live data but not for every single bit of the car. Sometimes, it will point you in the right direction and leave it to you to find out what is wrong As you suggest, I am talking about simply sticking the black probe of a multimeter on ground and the red one on the appropriate live pin. I know it sounds primitive but your time is a lot cheaper than a dealers. With regard to your coolant leak, I'd suggest you look at the corners of the header tank for a hairline crack. It is a known weak point. We have two E46 and both failed at about 100k. In fact, mine cracked so badly, coolant came out faster than I could pour it in. So don't go far with it