My wife's Z brake indicator came on yesterday. I'm guessing that it is due for a brake job.
Before I tackle a brake job, which I have done many on many different cars, just not a BMW. I figured I'd ask if there are any "tricks" or other important things I need to know about a Z4 brake job.
Are the rotors typically replaced or turned? I can feel a ridge on the outside edge of all 4. The braking surface looks good on all 4 though, no bad grooves.
Pad and rotor suggestions?
Wife's car. No performance driving. Her baby.
Last edited by 1RonRock; 08-06-2017 at 11:33 AM.
I'd get new rotors and some pads that won't dust up your wheels.
I like Zimmerman rotors and Akebono pads. This link takes you to a front and rear set, which may be more than you need. The pads and rotors seem to have a lifetime warranty.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...116864047ktfr2
New sensor since you waited too long, front or rear sensor depending which one triggered the light?
How do you know which one?
Usually the front... but can't tell for sure without looking
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They aren't expensive. Just order 2 and now you have a spare for the next time
Fair enough, but I like to know that a part is bad before I start throwing parts at a problem.
Can the sensors be tested? Or is it obvious that one has ""triggered the light" by looking at them?
Once triggered, they are disposed of along with the old pads.
The sensors work by contacting the rotor and completing an electrical circuit when the pads wear down far enough. They are therefore "wear items" once they touch the rotor and must be replaced.
I'm in a similar situation, ie, I run without them, in that I'm on top of the car in terms of maintenance such that there is no chance that I'd get close to triggering them... actually in my book to run a set of pads long enough to trigger the sensors is sloppy maintenance.
Depending on miles and previous owners brake pad regiment, the factory rotors can be turned and save you a bit of cash. I was told mine were still way thicker than the minimum amount they are allowed and could probably be done again with next set of pads. I installed Hawk HPS Blues. My only issue when I did mine was the one screw in drivers front that holds the rotor to the hub would not come loose. I used an hammer type impact on all of them but the front drivers simply would not budge. Ended up drilling it out, retapped and picked up replacement screw thats sitting out in the garage waiting for the day I pull the wheel.
Last edited by cdsweet; 08-16-2017 at 09:44 PM.
Thanks guys for the advice. I'm getting back on track after a vacation, so a couple more questions.
Is 0903 Plastilube the recommended lube for the BMW brakes? One- 75ml tube for all 4 corners?
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...cts/plastilube
Last edited by 1RonRock; 08-22-2017 at 09:31 AM.
I would only worry about it if I had a problem... short of that I'd leave everything as dry as possible [of note: of several hundred brake jobs I've done over the decades - never had a noise problem... my impression is that those that do have such: is a bad brake pad choice].
Undamaged brake hardware is more important, such as:
Anti-rattle clips, dust boots,Cleaned and polished caliper guide pins,
The OE rotors have the minimum thickness specs etched into them for reference.
Turning the rotors is, I think, an economic decision as well as a safety one. If you have access to the right equipment, and can get the work done/can do it yourself competently and economically, go for it.
I do my own work as much as I can. I have to pay for lift time and I don't fully trust the resurfacing gear I have access to. For me, it might make sense to buy new rotors to swap in and keep the old rotors to resurface at some later date.
Last edited by Outrider; 08-23-2017 at 10:08 PM.
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