SLR Camber Adapters. Info thread.

[Jrcanes55]

So I installed the kit yesterday. I have not aligned it yet so if there are any specific questions you have about what the plates will do ask away and I'll do my best to test everything out. This is an e46 ultra kit and I started with the camber plates in the most outward position and what I presume to be the factory caster setting. First impressions are gawtdam. The camber reduction is insane. I was expecting to still be around 5 degrees per side but it looks to be way less. I'll post alignment sheets with before and after settings and any additional changes I make will be noted. Here are some pics just to get an idea. I'm going to have to cut the strut tops out to get to the adjusters and be able to adjust my dampers.

[abest521]

Saw this on instagram. Love every bit of it. What are your plans on fenders?

[Jrcanes55]

Saw this on instagram. Love every bit of it. What are your plans on fenders?

I ordered flares. The Denofa flares were sold out on SLRs website so I ordered universal ones from ebay. They're currently stuck in customs and untrackable. I've been waiting over a month for them now.

[abest521]

Gotcha. Were they wider than the hard motorsport kit? Those were the ones I was looking at getting, but I dont know if they would be wide enough for a setup like this.

[Novablue454]

I have the hard kit on my e46 with SLR ultra. I use a 245/40r17 on an et20 with a 30mm spacer so like -10 total, and I poke with the hard flares.

17498904_10209011912678109_2806928810877991246_n.jpg

[satakal]

Maybe a dumb question: Why would you want less camber in front?
I thought you want X quantity of static front camber such that when at or close-to lock the "working" front tire has max contact-patch.
My other assumption: Caster quantity effects how "fast" camber changes when turning the steering wheel. Hypothetical example: Static camber = -5deg. @Max caster and steering lock...0deg camber at "working" tire. @Min caster and steering lock...-2deg camber at "working" tire.

[protomor]

I think you answered your own question. With the SLR kit, the wheel turns a ton more. So you get a ton more camber gain. So lessening caster and camber help you gain a better contact patch at full lock. On top of that, the SLR angle kit uses much wider control arms so you gain something like 5-8 degrees of camber. On any car, that's insane.

I got my car to 8.5 caster and about -2.5 camber thanks to this kit. Before, I was 10 caster and -5 degrees of camber. The car had return issues and corner in understeer. I also noticed a ton more control near lock.

[Jrcanes55]

Gotcha. Were they wider than the hard motorsport kit? Those were the ones I was looking at getting, but I dont know if they would be wide enough for a setup like this.

Not sure. I know the hard flares are like 30mm or 35mm? past the original width. Mine are 70mm total. So I think it's close. Maybe less. But I have a friend with 3in flares if things don't line up the way I want.

Maybe a dumb question: Why would you want less camber in front?
I thought you want X quantity of static front camber such that when at or close-to lock the "working" front tire has max contact-patch.
My other assumption: Caster quantity effects how "fast" camber changes when turning the steering wheel. Hypothetical example: Static camber = -5deg. @Max caster and steering lock...0deg camber at "working" tire. @Min caster and steering lock...-2deg camber at "working" tire.

I want to add camber so that when at lock my leading wheel has as much contact patch as possible. I haven't had time to get the car on the rack yet. But this is full lock at what I estimate to be between 2 and 3 degrees. I'd like to see that wheel flat on the ground.

I have the hard kit on my e46 with SLR ultra. I use a 245/40r17 on an et20 with a 30mm spacer so like -10 total, and I poke with the hard flares.

17498904_10209011912678109_2806928810877991246_n.jpg

That looks really good.

[protomor]

I wonder the validity of checking camber when the car is static. I've been relying on people to take pictures of my car at/near full lock to determine contact patch. Something about having the load on the car makes things very different in motion. Regardless, looks like you're already great when it comes to contact patch. Also remember that you might be gaining in one place to sacrifice in others.

[Jrcanes55]

Yeah I've been looking around. I have a few pictures of Chelsea's car at lock and also static forward position. He has a fair amount of camber but not crazy. I'm going to start at 5 and make adjustments as necessary.

[CoMZ302]

Do the plates allow you to move them more towards max camber and camber? In other words, If I didn't have longer control arms or whatever, I just wanted to use these to get more camber/caster then the GC/Vorshlag plates, could I do that?

Thanks!

[Mikestokman]

Not without gaining caster, no. Or I guess you could if you re drilled the strut tower holes, but without doing that no they're only designed to go super positive

[CoMZ302]

Well I'm looking for more caster... I have a 328 and can get only about 6 degrees.

[Novablue454]

you can add caster at the lollipops with something like the powerflex offset bushings, not sure how much more though.

[Jrcanes55]

I finally got the car on the rack and got it to read the car. I'll post an alignment sheet tonight. I ran out of time and was exhausted and I had to get creative with my front camber because one strut tower is slightly off from an impact. But caster at the factory position was dead nuts even at about 6.5 degrees and max positive camber was -1.5 degrees on the not mushroomed side. I also threw a tiny bit of toe out at it to see what it was like and holy crap. Turn in is amazing now.