2006 325ci e46 replaced starter but...

[Vegas94]

I had an issue with the starter this month, so i replaced it. Once i replaced it, it had no problem starting up, but idling got super rough and there has been a clicking/rattling noise inside the intake, by where the Air Adjustment Unit/Disa Valve is.

I put everything back together the same way I took it apart. Im not sure what the problem is now...

Here is a link to how its looking. I recorded this.

https://youtu.be/EnaAo6FB1yI

[328 Power 04]

You replaced the starter through the top?

Vacuum leak. What did you break? (CCV plastics?)

[bmwdirtracer]

A rattle in the DISA can be a DISASTER! If the DISA comes apart, and the metal pins end up in a cylinder, they will destroy the valves, the cylinder walls, and the piston.

And, oh damn....having watched your video, it's an M56 engine....a California car? You've GOT to have codes by now, you need to read them. The engine is misfiring, sounds like crap.

Start by having the codes read and the intake / crankcase vent system smoke tested at a top-quality BMW / Euro specialist shop.

As Abel indicates, it's much better to do starter swaps from the bottom, because removing the intake invites endless leaks.

[Vegas94]

You replaced the starter through the top?

Vacuum leak. What did you break? (CCV plastics?)

We took off all of the components as well as the intake manifold to reach the starter, so yes, we did it from the top? I checked everything with CCV and it looked okay. I may take it apart again to re check, but eill read the codes before doing so.

[Vegas94]

A rattle in the DISA can be a DISASTER! If the DISA comes apart, and the metal pins end up in a cylinder, they will destroy the valves, the cylinder walls, and the piston.

And, oh damn....having watched your video, it's an M56 engine....a California car? You've GOT to have codes by now, you need to read them. The engine is misfiring, sounds like crap.

Start by having the codes read and the intake / crankcase vent system smoke tested at a top-quality BMW / Euro specialist shop.

As Abel indicates, it's much better to do starter swaps from the bottom, because removing the intake invites endless leaks.

The rattling sounds like something is in the intake boucing around. Ill take a picture of the Disa Valve once we take it apart again. It didnt look like anything was wrong with it.

The car may be from california, Im located in Nevada. I shall look around form BMW Shops. Thank you guys!

[328 Power 04]

Oh, I was just mentioning one of the more fragile systems in the area of the intake, which usually breaks... but it could be an intake boot, or anything. Visual inspection is likely not enough.

[bmwdirtracer]

Sorry, Abel, I was not intending to put words into your mouth.

I do starters from the bottom, almost always, because it's much easier, and avoids all those likely intake leaks when you disassemble from above.

Admittedly, you have to do the wiring R&R by feel, but since it saves hours of work and all those intake leaks, I do the starter jobs from below, 95% of the time.

From below: 1.5 hours; from above, 3.5 hours, plus going back and fixing the intake leaks,

[328 Power 04]

Sorry, Abel, I was not intending to put words into your mouth.

I didn't take wrongly in any way. I was correcting myself more than anything.

[Vegas94]

Hey guys, so I finally got most of the codes read today. Here's the list

P2570 Direcr Ozone Reduction Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit High

P0070 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor

P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low

P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P1411 (Could not find code)


and these other ones

2ADA DME: EAC Sensor, Electrical Fault

2783 DME: Hot-Film air-mass flow sensor

281D BSD Generator Signal

2761 DME: Secondary-Air System

281E DME: Variable Intake System activation


Im looking into what caused these codes. Any info helps, thank you!

[bmwdirtracer]

If I judge just by the codes, there's a lot of stuff that's not plugged in correctly, if at all. Did you turn on the ignition while the manifold was off?

It looks like the alternator, the Mass Airflow Sensor, and the DISA are unplugged. Maybe also several coils or fuel injector plugs. Were you very careful removing the metal clips which hold the wiring plugs to the injectors, or did you just break the plugs like YouTube videos show?

[Vegas94]

If I judge just by the codes, there's a lot of stuff that's not plugged in correctly, if at all. Did you turn on the ignition while the manifold was off?

It looks like the alternator, the Mass Airflow Sensor, and the DISA are unplugged. Maybe also several coils or fuel injector plugs. Were you very careful removing the metal clips which hold the wiring plugs to the injectors, or did you just break the plugs like YouTube videos show?

Sorry for the late reply, I couldn't remember my password, but nooo! i tried my best to get those unplugged. All of the cables are plugged in from the Cable harness box. I was told to test the DISA Valve by unplugging its cable from the harness box, but it affected nothing. Is there a cable powering the box? i read that when plugging that it, the cables wont just go to any slot, it will only click to where it needs to go. On the bottom of it, there is one big one that slips off a little easy, might be missing the tab that helps it hold on?

thanks again guys

[bmwdirtracer]

IF the ignition was turned on, even for a second, while the sensor plugs were disconnected, you might have set the vast majority of those codes....and they will not clear, just because the sensors are now connected. You have to clear all the codes with a good scan tool.

The fact that you hear rattling at the DISA valve is a red-alert warning. If the DISA flap falls off, and the metal pins on which it pivots get sucked in, they can destroy your engine. Personally, I'd take the DISA off, and make sure it's intact.

If the wiring harness and plugs are routed correctly, they don't easily plug into the wrong place. However, experience is required in making all the connections correctly. Like, for instance, you need to know that the oil pressure sensor only has one wire in its plug. The DISA plug has a little sideways "hat" on it, like the thermostat plug and the purge valve plug.

Check all the plugs again, then clear all the codes, then start the engine, shut it off, and start it again....then read the codes which reappeared.